80 series locker switch with ARB (1 Viewer)

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rusty_tlc

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I found a lot of references to this but very little content.

I have the ARB locker installed, I have the compressor installed.
It has all been tested using jumpers and such.

I have the 80 series dual locker switch.

Heck I even have a digital camera I can take pictures with.

Everything is read to go, except I also have a few questions.

Foremost, what is the current rating on the existing rear locker circuit? Does it drive the locker directly or through a relay?

Next what is the current rating on the switch? Those contacts look awful skinny.

And finally when others did this did they run the current directly through the switch or did they use relays?
 
The 80/100 series locker switch (same part number, used in 100's in other world markets like OZ etc) does not have a current rating that I could find anywhere. The selector switch, switches control current to the Diff lock ECU only, and the relays in the ECU switch the OEM diff lock motors. That said, the current draw of an ARB locker solenoid is only .6 amps, so a maximum of 1.2 amps for front and rear going through the switch, which is relatively low.

You say the contacts look skinny, I pulled my switch apart when I purchased it and it has a reasonably robust wiping contact which I expect can handle that current for normal use. I don't recall anyone on this board ever experiencing trouble with this switch, although I have not done a search.

AFAIK, everyone wires the switch to handle the solenoids directly, not through relays. Eventually through repeated use, some pitting of the contacts and wiper may occur due to the collapsing field of the solenoids, and from the initial inrush current, however I don't expect them to fail in a hurry.
 
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Correction:
I should have said terminals instead of contacts.


I'm not to concerned about the solenoid current. I was more concerned about the compressor current. From my reading it seems that SOP is to connect the switch such that the compressor is on when the switch is in the rear locker position. The CKSA12 draws 5 amps w/no load and 6.5 amps w/load.
 
Yes, I would definitely use a relay between the locker switch and the compressor.
 
Sorry, you did not ask any questions about a compressor, only the lockers and the locker switch. HOSER has done a write up on his install (do a search) others have done also. Maybe you have an electric rear locker and have added a front ARB air locker? There has been a write up on this as well using this switch controlling the compressor as well IIRC. As I said previously, no probs for the solenoid current. If you want to run any compressor, they normally draw 10 to 40 amps so they require a relay no matter how you wire them unless you use a big switch. Sleeoffroad may have a write up on this as well?
 
Sorry, you did not ask any questions about a compressor, only the lockers and the locker switch. HOSER has done a write up on his install (do a search) others have done also. Maybe you have an electric rear locker and have added a front ARB air locker? There has been a write up on this as well using this switch controlling the compressor as well IIRC. As I said previously, no probs for the solenoid current. If you want to run any compressor, they normally draw 10 to 40 amps so they require a relay no matter how you wire them unless you use a big switch. Sleeoffroad may have a write up on this as well?
I guess I wasn't clear in the OP I was asking about a front ARB electrical install in general. The locker install is already complete. Perhaps the reference to the rear locker current requirement was obtuse as well, yes I do have a factory electric rear locker

Did the search, as mentioned in OP, like I said, lots of references little content. If you have any links to write ups that would be helpful.

As I stated in my last post the compressor current is 5/6.5, this is the newer mini ARB pump. The older pumps draw a more like 30 - 40 amps. I have that one on another rig.

No write up on SLEE that I could find, again if you have any links that would be helpful
 
I do not have a write-up but if you take a look at Snook's thread, you can use "D4" to activate the front locker solenoid. "D2" is the +12V which is already wired since you have a factory rear locker. Then splice into "D5" (your rear locker) and put a relay on it that goes to the compressor. I realize the mini-compressor only draws 6.5 amps but the ARB wiring diagram specifies 12V/15amps. So go with a 15 amp or higher relay. From your ARB wiring harness, you should only need 2 wires. (1) the Dark Green one from the Front locker wiring harness to activate the front locker triggered by "D2" and (2) the Red one from the Compressor harness to activate your compressor (via relay) triggered from your rear locker (D5).

Please double check the color of the compressor wire. I am not an electrical expert and I do not have my compressor set up like this. I have it on a separate 15amp rocker switch. Please report back if it works out for you.

In this diagram of the 80 series diff lock switch (backside), take note of the positions. It goes from left to right, D2, D4, D5. Disregard the colors as I have not confirmed them.

facswtch.jpg
 
I do not have a write-up but if you take a look at Snook's thread, you can use "D4" to activate the front locker solenoid. "D2" is the +12V which is already wired since you have a factory rear locker. Then splice into "D5" (your rear locker) and put a relay on it that goes to the compressor. I realize the mini-compressor only draws 6.5 amps but the ARB wiring diagram specifies 12V/15amps. So go with a 15 amp or higher relay. From your ARB wiring harness, you should only need 2 wires. (1) the Dark Green one from the Front locker wiring harness to activate the front locker triggered by "D2" and (2) the Red one from the Compressor harness to activate your compressor (via relay) triggered from your rear locker (D5).

Please double check the color of the compressor wire. I am not an electrical expert and I do not have my compressor set up like this. I have it on a separate 15amp rocker switch. Please report back if it works out for you.

In this diagram of the 80 series diff lock switch (backside), take note of the positions. It goes from left to right, D2, D4, D5. Disregard the colors as I have not confirmed them.

facswtch.jpg

Thanks that thread was exactly what I needed.
I'll try to go slow when I do the work and take some pictures, I'm pretty bad about getting into a project and forgetting the pics.
 
Okay, after mulling this around for a while here is my plan.

Tap the rear locker relay out put to drive the compressor relay, via a buffer transistor.

Run a wire from the 80 series front locker switch position to drive a transistor which will buffer the front locker solenoid.

One wire to run through the fire wall and hook up.

One tap under the hood to provide +12V.

One ground connection.

I'll probably make a PCB for the relay/transistor and stuff everything in a project box that can be mounted next to the pump.

I'll check my spares box tonight and see what kind of transistors I have laying around.
 
Instead of making up a PCB etc, why not just tap the rear locker SWITCH output (that goes to the locker ECU, pin #D5) via an inline diode to the compressor relay.
Then power the front solenoid directly off the locker switch ( Pin #D4) via an inline diode. This way whenever you SELECT your rear locker, you power your compressor ready for the front locker. As you know, the diode stops any backfeeds from the relay and isolates the Locker ECU from any transients, and then you select the front locker solenoid which is also isolated by a diode. (You could also put a free wheeling diode across the solenoid at the plug if you wanted to.)
No PCB to make or box of tricks needed.
Another option if using the mini compresor is to use the output of the front locker SWITCH via a diode to drive the compressor relay, and also power the front locker solenoid off this at the same time. This way when you select the front locker the compressor starts and also powers the solenoid and pumps directly to the locker. Due to the extremely small reservior on the pump, the short line to the locker, the locker will engage in a couple of seconds I expect. I am sure this has been done by others here or 80 forum.
 
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ARB also sell Proquip relays for their bigger compressors, just in case you wanted to use one of these they have inbuilt Diac protection, so diodes would not be necessary. Would make the install easier as well.
Proquip part number P1512XP
ARB part number CO42

EDIT: This is a 5 pin relay with 2 switched output terminals, ideal for hooking up the compressor and solenoid.

Protection for Engine Management Systems
and Electronic Equipment
Continuously tested to OEM standards
• Alternative Diac protection is available
•All relays with tin plated terminals
• Designed for minimum 500,000 switching cycles
• 12 months, 20,000 Km warranty
• All relays with silver alloy contacts
• 12 Volt, 40 Amp
 
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Instead of making up a PCB etc, why not just tap the rear locker SWITCH output (that goes to the locker ECU, pin #D5) via an inline diode to the compressor relay.
Then power the front solenoid directly off the locker switch ( Pin #D4) via an inline diode. This way whenever you SELECT your rear locker, you power your compressor ready for the front locker. As you know, the diode stops any backfeeds from the relay and isolates the Locker ECU from any transients, and then you select the front locker solenoid which is also isolated by a diode. (You could also put a free wheeling diode across the solenoid at the plug if you wanted to.)
No PCB to make or box of tricks needed.
Another option if using the mini compresor is to use the output of the front locker SWITCH via a diode to drive the compressor relay, and also power the front locker solenoid off this at the same time. This way when you select the front locker the compressor starts and also powers the solenoid and pumps directly to the locker. Due to the extremely small reservior on the pump, the short line to the locker, the locker will engage in a couple of seconds I expect. I am sure this has been done by others here or 80 forum.
Good suggestions. But I really want the extra layer of isolation from the ECU provided by the relay, tapping the rear locker O/P also saves another wire through the firewall. Eventually I will be installing other equipment, HAM/CB/Winch etc., so any reduction of wires through the firewall helps. I have a PCB prototype lab at my disposal so a PCB is kind of a no big deal thing for me, it will also provide a nice place to terminate the extra ARB harness wires. I want everything enclosed in a box because the first electrical failure I had with my other ARB system was due to corrosion of the relay contacts. And I have a couple of cases of plastic project boxes.:grinpimp:

I had considered the single wire from the switch contact to control both the pump and the locker, I'm leaning strongly that way the more I think about it. My FJ40 harness is a nightmare of PO mods and splices, I'd like to keep any mods to the 100 OEM wiring to a minimum.

ARB also sell Proquip relays for their bigger compressors, just in case you wanted to use one of these they have inbuilt Diac protection, so diodes would not be necessary. Would make the install easier as well.
Proquip part number P1512XP
ARB part number CO42

EDIT: This is a 5 pin relay with 2 switched output terminals, ideal for hooking up the compressor and solenoid.

Protection for Engine Management Systems
and Electronic Equipment
Continuously tested to OEM standards
• Alternative Diac protection is available
•All relays with tin plated terminals
• Designed for minimum 500,000 switching cycles
• 12 months, 20,000 Km warranty
• All relays with silver alloy contacts
• 12 Volt, 40 Amp
Thanks I'll take a look, 40 amps would handle both the pump and solenoid with ease.
 
Not sure where you located the compressor, but as you know there are lots of SPARE wires under the bonnet you may be able to use for switching your compressor relay/locker solenoid. AHC wiring if you don't have AHC, headlight washer wiring, headlight adjustment wiring etc., they go back to inside the cab, just have to find the other end of them! The part number for the relay I mentioned is the one with the DIAC installed, just in case I confused the issue by posting the company blurb on the relay options (Alternative Diac protection is available ).
 
Not sure where you located the compressor, but as you know there are lots of SPARE wires under the bonnet you may be able to use for switching your compressor relay/locker solenoid. AHC wiring if you don't have AHC, headlight washer wiring, headlight adjustment wiring etc., they go back to inside the cab, just have to find the other end of them! The part number for the relay I mentioned is the one with the DIAC installed, just in case I confused the issue by posting the company blurb on the relay options (Alternative Diac protection is available ).

As it happens the compressor is right next to one of the AHC pictails. ;)
 
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If that is the case then you can use the AHC power supply wiring and factory relay
Have a read of this thread

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=162003&highlight=connectors

EDIT: Just noticed you posted in this thread!
You edited while I was scanning the thread.:grinpimp:

Making the compressor NOT tied to the ignition is a good idea in principal, in practice I find it will make little difference (based on my other ARB set up). If you stall the locker takes a second to bleed down, longer than it takes to get your foot on the brake.

The long term plan is to have all of the stuff I do on a new buss as isolated as possiable from the OEM wiring. I was looking at after market fuse blocks tonight in the Summit catalog. They sell blocks with x circuits hot always and x circuits ingition hot. A marine fuse block may be a better choice since it will most likely be under the hood.

I'm in no rush to attack this so it may go through more incarnations before it happens. Chats like this give insight and s uggest new ideas.

From that thread:

Did anyone locate the spare AHC connector under the dash?

I need to pick up 12V @15 amps;ignition hot, and dash light hot for my ARB install.
It would be sweet not to cut into the chassis wiring harness and just use a couple of .250" female spade connectors to connect these signals up from a existing connector.

Do you want to use the OEM diff lock switch? If you do, there will be dash illumination at a switch next to it, just grab it from there.
I wired mine NOT ignition hot, (hOT always) so if I turn of the ignition and I am in a tight spot on a hill or something my compressor and solenoid stay actuated. Folks have argued that load on the diff will stop it popping out, but I have a fear of "Murphy's Law", when something can go wrong it will go wrong at the worst possible time. Your fuse box kick panels are are good place to start, look for things on the cover of your fuse box lid that don't exist in your vehicle and a fuse will be there ready to go, just chop the wire running from it and away you go. The AHC circuit will help with the compressor install (and solenoid feed) I can't remember if it is IGN switched or not, I think it would be.
 

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