1987 FJ60 - Rust Free From New Mexico (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Location
United States
1987 FJ60 - Rust Free From New Mexico - SOLD

*** SOLD - MONEY IN THE BANK TODAY*****


I want to buy an 80 so I need to sell my 60.

*** New lower price -- $4,000 ****

Here's a list of a few basic details:

* Runs very well
* I've gotten multiple compliments from people that say the truck looks almost new and they cannot believe it is 20 years old.
*266,590 Miles
*Repainted in late 2003 with Toyota 4M9 Cashmere Beige Metallic
*I ran a VIN check and it showed that it has been in Albuquerque since it was brand new (except it lived in Farmington for a couple months)
*The dashboard is 99.9% perfect with one small crack in the speaker grille
*It passed the Bernalillo County emissions test in March 2007. I don't have any reason to think that it wouldn't pass if tested today.

Relatively new parts:
31" X 10.5 BFG A/T - about 4 years old with 20K miles on them
A/C system converted to R134a and it blows COLD.
OEM Reman Starter about a year ago
New motor and transmission mounts in 2003
OEM Cat-back Exhaust
New OEM Distributor Cap, Rotor and Plugs at 242K miles
K&N Air filter at 242K miles
Rebuilt/reseal Driver steering knuckle, axle seal, trunnion bearings
Replaced Driver Side rear axle seal.
New aftermarket radiator in 2003
Carburetor overhaul in 2003
Replaced intake/exhaust manifold and under-carb gaskets in 2005
New OEM Distributor Vacuum Advance
Installed Reman PS Pump and Air Pump in 2006
New Belts in 2006
New windshield and OEM gasket 2 weeks ago

**UPDATE** I got these installed ***I have the parts for the 3-point rear seatbelt retrofit but have only installed
the lap retractors because there aren't any nuts welded into the C-pillars***
I also have extra seatbelt parts, FJ62 mirrors I haven't installed, a non-bent globebox door, and several other spare parts
I installed a couple of cargo tiedown straps in the crevice between the floor and rear seatback.

I have a bunch more pictures. Send me a PM and any picture requests you might have and I'll email them to you.

Here are some pictures.
attachment.php
attachment.php
attachment.php
 
Last edited:
And a few more photos:
Carpet - Front Passenger.jpg
Carpet - Rear Seat.jpg
Dash 3 - no cracks.jpg
 
So does the new paint match the old paint or is it something different? ;)
 
So does the new paint match the old paint or is it something different? ;)

The old paint color was Tan. I had the doorjambs, door interiors (not panels), under hood, inner fenders, tailgate/hatch interior, etc. painted as well so you cannot tell that the truck used to be a different color. The dash original color is very close to the 'new' exterior color and is an excellent match. If you lift up the carpet or take an interior panel off then you can see the original color. Here are a few photos to show some of those interior spots that sometimes get missed on color change repaints.
Rear Open 1.jpg
Door - DF.jpg
Door - PR.jpg
 
Last edited:
And a few more. You can see the inner fenders and the firewall near the top where the color matches the exterior.
engine.jpg
Cab - PF.jpg
Seat - PF.jpg
 
Lots of views but no questions or replies. Am I asking too much? Ask me questions about the stuff you're worried about. I'm not afraid to answer. When I bought the truck in 2003, the compression in all 6 cylinders was very close to the new spec and all within about 5 psi of the average. I can run another compression test for those that might be concerned with the mileage.

I was hoping a rust-free NM truck with a decent paint job would be worth a little more than NADA or KBB 'Book Value'. Here are a few more photos to bump it.
Headliner Rear.jpg
Retrofit Latch Plate.jpg
Dash 1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Oh, and for those who don't know it, New Mexico is part of the United States. :D It's in between Texas and Arizona. You'd be surprised how many people I meet that don't have any idea where New Mexico is.
 
I don't know if it's too high or not, but I can tell you fixing a rusty 2500 dollar truck will never yeild these results. People are always leery of a respray, but it looks like it was done well. I'd hold out a little longer.
 
Thanks Texx.

Here are a few more photos I haven't shown yet.
Door - PF.jpg
Rear Cargo no Rug.jpg
Console 2.jpg
 
i see you removed the piece about you fixing it up and the salvage title. Transparency is always better, IMO. I have concerns about the wreck and what was damaged. You mentioned to frame was fine. If you could talk more about that, it may help your cause.
 
I decided that first impressions are critical. If someone reads about the salvage in the first post, they are less likely to even give it a second look. But if someone shows any interest, then I would immediately provide all the important details along with a before picture.

I've been hesitant to post the picture of before I made the repairs for fear of getting no responses. But, since I'm getting about the same responses without it, here is a picture of what it looked like when I bought it. You can see there was a need for new front end sheet metal but the damage really wasn't that bad. Just because the insurance company decided it was a loss didn't mean that the truck was a lost cause. With no rust, good compression and a good interior, this truck had far more potential to me than an non-wrecked rust-bucket.

Also included are couple undercarriage shots to show how little rust is on the frame. That's dirt you see on the side of the frame in the second photo.
Crunch.jpg
D-side under 1.jpg
D-side under 2.jpg
 
I decided that first impressions are critical. If someone reads about the salvage in the first post, they are less likely to even give it a second look. But if someone shows any interest, then I would immediately provide all the important details along with a before picture.

I've been hesitant to post the picture of before I made the repairs for fear of getting no responses. But, since I'm getting about the same responses without it, here is a picture of what it looked like when I bought it. You can see there was a need for new front end sheet metal but the damage really wasn't that bad. Just because the insurance company decided it was a loss didn't mean that the truck was a lost cause. With no rust, good compression and a good interior, this truck had far more potential to me than an non-wrecked rust-bucket.

Also included are couple undercarriage shots to show how little rust is on the frame. That's dirt you see on the side of the frame in the second photo.

Thanks. I think this will help potential buyers for sure.

It does not look bad. I know that cars receive salvage titles all teh time. This does not mean that they were in a wreck or a complete loss. Sometimes it does though. I think most people see that a stay away.

The truck looks really good. Did you do all of the work yourself?
 
Thanks. I think this will help potential buyers for sure.

It does not look bad. I know that cars receive salvage titles all teh time. This does not mean that they were in a wreck or a complete loss. Sometimes it does though. I think most people see that a stay away.

The truck looks really good. Did you do all of the work yourself?

My father and I have done all the work on the truck ourselves except we had a friend with a paint and body business do the paint job. My father is a mechanic and I'm a mechanical engineer. He's got about 40 years experience working on cars - primarily German and Japanese brands. He's also owned nothing but Toyotas since 1983 (except for his '63 GMC). Between the two of us, we own 3 FJ60s, 2 FJ40s, 2 Camrys, 1 Supra and 1 Celica. I did piss him off when I bought my '98 Accord though. So we're pretty well qualified to do just about all the work on our vehicles.
 
In my opinion the price is a little high for a truck with the mileage you posted, With gas prices being up there 60 series and 80's prices are getting pretty low. I am in Colorado and I am seeing nice 60's with lower mileage going in the $3500 price range all of the time with very little to no rust also. I could see you getting your asking price if yours had somewhere in the 160000 mile range or under. Actually I have seen some decent 60's fetching around $2500.00.
Y^our best bet would be E-bay because it would bring more money on the east coast where most of them are rust buckets.

My .02 cents
 
I've seen this rig in person, and met both Marc & his dad, who helped me w/a door replacement on my 60.

Very good value here, not a piece of junk, but a well-maintained rig that has not been abused.

Bumpn it for ya!
 
Installed 3-point retrofit

I recently installed the shoulder belts for the 3-point retrofit and put some speakers in the holes that were in the interior panels behind the rear seat. Here are some pictures. For the C-pillar mounting of the shoulder belt retrofit, I used Grade-8 nuts tack welded to 3/16" steel.
nut plate 1.jpg
nut plate 2.jpg
c-pillar w nut plate.jpg
 
Belts installed photos:
upper bolt installed.jpg
left belt upper.jpg
right belt upper.jpg
 
One more seatbelt shot and 2 shots showing the speakers installed. The small round brown metal disk was in the truck when I bought it. My guess is that they are the remnants of some aftermarket cargo area cover.
three-point retrofit.jpg
left rear speaker.jpg
right rear speaker.jpg
 
Make me an offer

Ok folks. My price is just a starting point. Make me an offer. This really is a sweet, stock truck (build it how you want it) with nothing wrong with it at all.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom