Yet another heater hose replacement thread

[120mm]

So, I've searched ad nauseum, and there is not one single thread that covers a soup to nuts description of how to replace one's heater hoses that I can find.

Here are my peculiar issues.

I am in Germany, and I DD my Land Cruiser. That means the moment I start tearing into it, I MUST have each and every part to complete the job. No, "oh, yeah, you needed xyz part" after I start, since I cannot let it sit for a couple weeks while that parts leisurely winds its way across the ocean.

I have no clue if I can even get the right size hose here, or the dude (who doesn't even recognize English as a language) behind the counter at the oddly idiosyncratic German auto store to understand what I want.

So far, I've come up with the following parts list:

Heater valve
5/8 inch hose x 3 ft
13mm hose x 1 ft
p/n 87245B hose
vacuum hoses
#1 bypass hose 1626166040
#2 bypass hose 1626466021
#3 bypass hose 1626766020
#4 bypass hose 9955510200
Sufficient coolant to fill the system.

Of course, none of the auto parts stores call any of these things by these names. They have something like "#1 flapper to #4 Whojagawhatsis, and it is listed by a 6" long 31/32" ID hose. Seriously. It's completely retarded. Wanna get suicidal? Just go to Rock Auto and check out what they list for heater hoses for a 1996 Land Cruiser. If someone here understands that brand of Martian they have written on their product descriptions, you have my complete respect.

Most of my heater hose has the original clamps on them. I see no apparent way to either remove, or to reinstall them. In fact, they look like no other hose clamp I've ever encountered. Is there a tutorial somewhere these weird looking things? What are they called, precisely, so that I might be able to search for that myself?

I've spent a couple of weeks stressing about doing this job. My busiest time at work is coming up, and I only have a few more weekends available to work on it. Would appreciate the help.

 

[C6H12O6]

You will need new clamps. Most of those heater hoses use those goofy rolled metal band clamps. I used Breeze brand stainless lined clamps for all of my heater hoses. I only used the constant tension clamps for the PHH when I went to silicone. Not worth the money on the rubber hoses, IMHO, plus the constant tension clamps are huge and hard to fit some of the tight spaces you have to work in.

As much as I (slightly) overpaid, I called CDan and ordered my heater hoses from him. He'll get you what you need the first time and the OEM rubber hoses are really not that much more expensive. I mean, they are a couple bucks for a short hose, which probably costs pennies if you just buy bulk straight hose, but the OEM stuff is all metric and just seems to fit better than the standard inch sizes. Plus, they'll have all the right bends and little lines to help you orient the hoses. Worth it for me. The whole box of hoses is still totally worth it.

Not sure how you can source stuff from CDan being in Germany, but...

 

[davework]

I did mine on a 94 a few years back and about 30k mi ago. You can source silicone hose in metric sizes. OEM Toyota is also a good solution. After doing some research, I used Breeze Constant Torque Clamps on silicone hoses, and regular sleeved stainless breeze clamps on non-silicone.

I found good silicone hose at truck maintenance parts stores. Used Samco for the PHH and Firewall heater hoses since I had some left over from a previous PHH.

The only thing I ended up using OEM for were the two or three with bends or elbows. I replaced the second set of hard lines (going into the rear heater) with straight silicone runs. I kept the first set of hard lines.

If you are on a tight timeline, just order the PHH and FHH from here: Pesky Heater Hose Kits

And the rest from Toyota to guarantee fit.

I have to say though, I had the engine and tranny out, and with them still in the truck, I am not sure how you replace a couple of them: the two behind and on the driver side of the valve cover look tough to get to.

Use a dremel with a cut off for the metal band clamps, otherwise they are a pita.

Some specs on the PHH and FHH:

All 16mm Dia
Used SHL-16 Samco Silicone Hose
PHH = 60mm L
FHH 1 = 100mm L
FHH 2 = 50mm L
Used (2) Breeze Constant Torque SS Clamps CT-9410 on each

 

[120mm]

You will need new clamps. Most of those heater hoses use those goofy rolled metal band clamps. I used Breeze brand stainless lined clamps for all of my heater hoses. I only used the constant tension clamps for the PHH when I went to silicone. Not worth the money on the rubber hoses, IMHO, plus the constant tension clamps are huge and hard to fit some of the tight spaces you have to work in.

As much as I (slightly) overpaid, I called CDan and ordered my heater hoses from him. He'll get you what you need the first time and the OEM rubber hoses are really not that much more expensive. I mean, they are a couple bucks for a short hose, which probably costs pennies if you just buy bulk straight hose, but the OEM stuff is all metric and just seems to fit better than the standard inch sizes. Plus, they'll have all the right bends and little lines to help you orient the hoses. Worth it for me. The whole box of hoses is still totally worth it.

Not sure how you can source stuff from CDan being in Germany, but...

I have an APO address. Which means most sources won't send it.

I already have a PHH kit, but won't start that until I have everything else so I don't have to pour coolant all over the ground and myself more than once.

@beno do you ship APO?

 

[Hornd]

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
1996 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.5L L6
GATES 22050 Radiator Lower Hose $ 4.81 $ 0.00 1 $ 4.81
GATES 22049 Radiator Lower Hose $ 5.90 $ 0.00 1 $ 5.90
GATES 22051 Radiator Upper Hose $ 2.20 $ 0.00 1 $ 2.20
Discount $ -0.65
Shipping Priority Mail $ 5.79
Order Total $ 18.05
American Express -$ 18.05
Balance Due $ 0.00

I try to not over complicate things.
Gates Hoses are proven, but if you know better buy OEM; it's only Money.
Rock has 5% off each month Google the Coupon Code.

 

[davework]

I have an APO address. Which means most sources won't send it.

Tried to send you a PM but wasn't able, but I send bolt kits oversees APO often, so if you need someone to collect some parts and re-ship them USPS Priority, send me a PM.

 

[OGBeno]

I have an APO address. Which means most sources won't send it.

I already have a PHH kit, but won't start that until I have everything else so I don't have to pour coolant all over the ground and myself more than once.

@beno do you ship APO?

Yes I do sir. I ship anywhere in the world as requested.

 

[120mm]

Thanks for the save, Beno!

Parts ordered.

While I "think" I can do it cheaper, myself, nothing beats the peace of mind of getting OEM, and the exact right parts.

 

[davework]

Nice, Don't forget all the hose clamps you'll need for all those little hoses, there are a lot.

 

[120mm]

Nice, Don't forget all the hose clamps you'll need for all those little hoses, there are a lot.

Some of the hoses have new(er) spring clamps on them.

What I plan on doing is taking the new hoses to the auto parts store and getting the exact amount of clamps I need. I have point and grunt down, but my technical auto repair German stinks.

 

[bicycleagent003]

This is a very useful write up of a job similar to what you're doing.
ExpeditionLCMajorcoolingoverhaul

Good luck. It's a lot of work. I did mine (all of them) recently. I highly recommend you stick with OEM spring clamps and don't use the Breeze Constant Tension, which are more weight, work, and are still prone to both under and over tightening. Just use the OEM clamps, trust me on this one.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Some of the hoses have new(er) spring clamps on them.

What I plan on doing is taking the new hoses to the auto parts store and getting the exact amount of clamps I need. I have point and grunt down, but my technical auto repair German stinks.

Toyota hose clamps are inexpensive. Get them from @beno with the hose. Plus they look cool as s*** compared to parts store clamps. Plus plus they don't cut in to your hoses like the cheapo clamps.

 

[120mm]

I guess I don't understand what you mean by "Toyota hose clamps". Mine has the original clamps on most of them, and they are Mickey Mouse POS that I can't even begin to figure out how to remove or install them. Do you have a picture of what you mean?

 

[OGBeno]

There are three style clamps:

1. Cotter pin style that are tough to reuse (regardless of what the picture shows below):

2. Regular constant torque clamps:

3. Or the screw style ones (which are quite nice and robust):

 

[OGBeno]

@120mm: I can't start a "conversation" with you. Need some info please.

Thanks.

 

[LS1FJ40]

There are three style clamps:

1. Cotter pin style that are tough to reuse (regardless of what the picture shows below):

View attachment 1153770

2. Regular constant torque clamps:

View attachment 1153771

3. Or the screw style ones (which are quite nice and robust):

View attachment 1153772

Get #3!! They are the best for the money. They are very reasonably priced and will last another 15-20 years. I ordered them when I did my hoses this past spring. I like them so much better than the flat, sharp auto parts store ones. And they are about the same price.

 

[120mm]

Beno is hooking me up with Toyota clamps, and is shipping them to me forthwith.

I don't have any significant leaks, yet, but I have trace color coming from 3 different joins. Every time I open my hood, I grimace at those original, 19 year old hoses and clamps. The good news is, my daily commute is exactly 20 minutes and the ambient temps are cool here. The bad news is, (or maybe that's the good news, too ) my commute includes some off road opportunities, and I am just a mite anxious about pushing these hoses much further in these mountains.

 

[Tonkaboy]

Adding to this older, yet useful post. Bypass hose #3 (1626766020) was unfortunately overlooked by me--I should have serviced it with the others. Luckily it burst while parked. I was able to snip the leaky section behind the distributor with enough length to clamp back on to continue driving.