Why am I so happy? Well I finally got some time to try and diagnose the power and fuel econ issue. It seems almost like the timing isn't advancing. So we decided to check that but when we grounded the circut the check engine light didn't come on. So we decided to check the bulb to see if it was bad or the circut. Well after removing the instrument cluster we found the bulb and holder missing altogether as was the diff lock bulb and holder. Obviously the PO was trying to hide the check engine light and the fact it had a blown drive flange by keeping the diff locked and the light off. I knew the drive flange issue when I bought it and couldn't figure out why with o2 sensors the check engine light didn't come on. We got four codes to come up. 21 22 26 and 28 I think. All related to the o2 sensor. The light is on now as it should be and the diff lock light comes on when it should as well. I'm stoked that problem is solved now I think my next step is to come up with some o2 sensors and get them plumbed in. Anyone have a source for the bulb holders? Best price on o2 sensors? I still need to check the timing. I had the light hooked up but couldn't find out where to check the timing. Felt like a total newb. I really would like to ensure it is advancing as it should and then set it a bit advanced. Any recomendations on timing advance. The book I had said 7 and I was thinking 10 would produce a little more power.
Yee Haw my check engine light is on!! Yippeeeee
- Thread starter DJForrestA
- Start date
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DJ,
The timing is checked at the flywheel.(why not the crankshaft pulley I don't know) There is a small hole on the rear flange of the motor on the same side as the distributor. It is plugged with a rubber grommet. It is almost impossible to see unless you are at the right angle. Once you pull the rubber grommet there is a pointer in the middle of the hole. The flywheel has marks painted on it. There are some threads on setting the timing. Try this one for starters:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=43680&highlight=fj80+timing
Keep in mind that if you bump the timing you will probably have to run premium fuel. I have not bumped my timing yet (I'm hoping Santa brings me a timing light) but I have been running 93 octane in my LC the last three tanks of gas and that alone has added some pep to the 3FE. Enough so that my wife commented on it.
Since we are on the subject has anyone marked their crankshaft pulley with timing marks to make the whole process a little easier? If so, how did you do it?
The timing is checked at the flywheel.(why not the crankshaft pulley I don't know) There is a small hole on the rear flange of the motor on the same side as the distributor. It is plugged with a rubber grommet. It is almost impossible to see unless you are at the right angle. Once you pull the rubber grommet there is a pointer in the middle of the hole. The flywheel has marks painted on it. There are some threads on setting the timing. Try this one for starters:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=43680&highlight=fj80+timing
Keep in mind that if you bump the timing you will probably have to run premium fuel. I have not bumped my timing yet (I'm hoping Santa brings me a timing light) but I have been running 93 octane in my LC the last three tanks of gas and that alone has added some pep to the 3FE. Enough so that my wife commented on it.
Since we are on the subject has anyone marked their crankshaft pulley with timing marks to make the whole process a little easier? If so, how did you do it?
Adjusting your timing is not an easy task on our 3fe's. It's tough to get a timming light in there. I have the timming at 10*, the wife uses 87 octane. no problems
You need two of these NTK oem part #24111 @ about $40 each
...try NGK.com
You need two of these NTK oem part #24111 @ about $40 each
...try NGK.com
Getting a MIL on the 3FE is truly a fatal flaw that requires an engine replacement. Sounds like it's time for that SBC swap you're so keen on.
-B-
-B-
- Thread starter
- #5
Nice. Believe me if this thing used any oil or made any weird sounds I'd be on the hunt for parts but it runs like a champ. A gutless champ but a champ none the less. I hve all my discretionary funds tied up in my Scout and I just found a 1971 Chevelle sans motor and tranny that would make a great project. My wife will use the cruiser as soon as I get the last few PO dilemas ironed out.
- Thread starter
- #6
BTW Frank you are the man I just ordered my o2 sensors. It looks like they come with the plug ends as well. Does anyone have the factory harness side plug ends as the PO cut mine off.
Not on O2 sensors with shielded feeds.
- Thread starter
- #9
Help me out here Dan. Shielded feeds? Will soder hurt them or can you sell me the wire harness side plug ends?
Don't you just love Karma.
Mean people suck
DJForrestA said:
If the wires are shielded that means there is some sort of shield around the wires which is usually a mesh material that is grounded to protect the wires from any noise that would interfere with there signal.
On a 96 those O2 wires are part of a huge harness that goes all the way back through the firewall to the ECU.
I'd have to believe that those wires do the same on your truck, I'd brace myself for that cost.
- Thread starter
- #13
Mine don't look like they have anything but standard wire insulation. I know the NAPA ones are splice on.
- Thread starter
- #15
I knew the drive flange was blown thats why I got is so cheap as the dealer didn't. He thought the tranny was gone. I also knew the check engine light should be on because it had no o2 sensors but I couldn't figure out why it wasn't. I hit the wreckage today and scored a power ant that actually works, all my bulbs and holders for the dash, the plugs for my o2 sensors another drive flange and a few other knick knacks for 20 bucks. I came home to find a message that NGK only had 1 o2 sensor left in stock. Could these be spliced into 1? I may have to come up with another plan for the second o2 sensor.
- Thread starter
- #16
landtank said:
Oh does me having my own opinion now merit that I get no help. I had come to the impression that this board was a little above that. Sorry I ever posted that another engine might make a good replacement I guess that makes me not worth the help. If I didn't believe in Toyotas I never would have purchased one that had this much work to do on it and wouldn't be wasting my time as I don't believe I am.
DJForrestA said:
I thought I was helping with the explanation of the shielded cable. That's all I got, I've not dealt with cut harnesses to the O2 sensors before.
- Thread starter
- #19
Like Doug said I need to relax a bit. I guess I feel a bit "picked on" for my engine views but even there most people were very level headed. I disagree with alot of opinions on this board but I would never wish negatives on anyone. Thanks for the cable deal. NGK online called and only had one in stock but said they'd have the other next week. I should have this baby about wipped then. BTW I ran into a guy who has an ARB bumper he wants to trade me. He said I could buy it outright for 500 bucks and he said its brand new. I might trade him my custom .338 with Leapold scope for the bumper and a almost new set of 37x12.5x16.5 tires for my scout. We'll see.
