Hey guys how can i get these off? We're thinking of welding a nut or bolt onto the bottom of the studs. Then we would turn them from the bottom. Whats really weird is that all the studs have the nut on the bottom but no head on the top of all 4. Its also pretty tricky trying to do anything on these without a lift. Thanks guys
Y pipe bolts
- Thread starter Rhino5000
- Start date
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I'm sorry, but I'm not understanding something. These nuts are all easily accessible, at least on my '92 FJ80 they are . Use a long extension from below. I have a lift but it's not necessary . If this is some version other than what I'm familiar with, I don't know .
- Thread starter
- #5
Even if i get the nuts off from the bottom the stud will still be threaded into the manifold?
- Thread starter
- #6
Ok i understand now, i thought those were bolts
They aren’t typical metric nuts. Their E9’s ir E10’s.
I had to pull one manifold to get stripped stud out, then replaced with bolts from underneath. One of the holes I used threaded rod and put nuts on both sides to get the gap to close up between the manifold and new down pipe.
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- #11
Can you use a metric socket?
The originals on my '95 were 14mm flanged nuts, as were the Toyota replacements.
Depending on how rusty things are, be prepared to replace the studs too. Mine ended up stripping, then snapping off. Had to pull the manifolds to fix that up, which was much easier than I expected. Getting the broken studs out was a bear though.
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- #13
I got 2 out clean 1 stud snapped and the nut on the other one we had to grind off. Do you know the socket size for the stud?
We were also wondering about drilling through the broken stud ans just putting a bolt and nut with a locking washer rather than replacing the stud.
Didn't seem like the cast flange would accept a nut very well. If you are going to drill it out, I would tap it to the next size bolt.
I got mine out by welding a nut to the remnants of the stud. This puts a lot of heat into the stud, but a whole lot less into the manifold. Breaks the rust bond. A couple came out pretty easy, one took a dozen welded nuts to finally get out. But when all was said and done, the new studs threaded right in.
I got mine out by welding a nut to the remnants of the stud. This puts a lot of heat into the stud, but a whole lot less into the manifold. Breaks the rust bond. A couple came out pretty easy, one took a dozen welded nuts to finally get out. But when all was said and done, the new studs threaded right in.
- Thread starter
- #15
Im guessing you had the manifold off to weld a nut onto the stud? Im hoping i dont have to take it off. The nuts on the manifold look like the titanic theyre so rusted.
Maybe i can spray and torch the one stud and get it off with the star bit. Is that an e10 or e8?
Thanks everyone for the help.
Yes, I took mine off. The manifold to head bolts didn't look great on my truck either, but most of them just unscrewed out of the block. The two back near the firewall are a bear to reach.
PB blaster them for a couple days before hand, lay on the ground with a 14mm 6pt impact socket on an extension and impact the crap out of them. I recently replaced the studs too using one of these on the impact as well:
