Wow, Super Cool, MAF Billet Aluminum Rad For FZJ80!

[turbocruiser]

My choice at $320ish... not a drop in though.

Nice nice nice, but, like you wrote, not a drop in deal.

 

[turbocruiser]

Doug get a SC or a turbo and you will not need to go WOT

Exactly, however cannot help it, power good, more power gooder, I prolly see WOT more frequently than the typical stocker!!!

Phil,

Heh - agree. Wonder what heat load those add, eh?

DougM

Yes, considering the extra heat, the extra power, and the fact that it is indeed oil and water cooled, its gotta give the cooling system an extra amount of agony over stock.

A lot.

Doh!!! Did not see that prior to posting, here I am wondering while the guru gives the actual answer. Double Doh!!!

Yeah, I'd think. Theoretically, going up the same hill while towing at the same speed before installing an SC would produce the same heat load. It's all a matter of fuel burnt and resulting waste BTUs into the cooling system. But you could lean on the loud pedal and produce a boatload MORE heat with the greater output.

DougM

Again, refer to Dan's answer, and consider past the point that the heatload of a SC is concerned because the TC is not only producing more power and therefore more heat but it is also getting cooled by oil and by water whereas the SC is not. Still, for the longest time no one correctly opined why the SC'ed rigs ran hotter than the TC'ed rigs, turns out the fan blade business was the thing that contributed to this more than the power. Yet one more reason why this place is powerful beyond antianxiety meds!!!

 

[IdahoDoug]

Turbo,

No offense taken. I agree that forced induction changes things completely and if you're going to be at WOT like that with it you'd be wise to ensure your cooling system and it's heat shedding capacity are up to snuff.

OTOH, I think it's worth noting that Toyota feels the stock cooling system is adequate for a supercharger, which they sell while keeping the factory warranty intact.

Also, pressure wise this radiator will operate at the same internal pressure - less than 15psi which a plastic sandwich bag can handle. The stock rad failures occur from abuse (old coolant going acid, overheats for a variety of reasons), and physical damage (mechanics kneeling on the top tank due to the length of the Cruiser's engine bay, etc). I feel that a stock radiator can handle whatever the stock truck's engine can dish out heat wise as long as things are up to snuff.

But if I were forced induction I'd consider my radiator choices, too. It's just that I'm not sure how you ensure that an expensive unit like this can actually shed more heat rather than just look good - which it most certainly does. Dunno. Anyhow, I agree it's not a direct comparison since you're definitely able to put more BTU's into your cooling system than I can.

But I still contend WOT for several minutes with a combined GVW of 12,000lbs beats WOT for 30 seconds unladen in terms of cooling and engine stress and heat. I'll see if I can scare up some heat data from the old days. To this day, Vail Pass and others are used for cooling system and destructive engine testing with trailers.


DougM

 

[turbocruiser]

Turbo,

No offense taken. I agree that forced induction changes things completely and if you're going to be at WOT like that with it you'd be wise to ensure your cooling system and it's heat shedding capacity are up to snuff.

OTOH, I think it's worth noting that Toyota feels the stock cooling system is adequate for a supercharger, which they sell while keeping the factory warranty intact.

Also, pressure wise this radiator will operate at the same internal pressure - less than 15psi which a plastic sandwich bag can handle. The stock rad failures occur from abuse (old coolant going acid, overheats for a variety of reasons), and physical damage (mechanics kneeling on the top tank due to the length of the Cruiser's engine bay, etc). I feel that a stock radiator can handle whatever the stock truck's engine can dish out heat wise as long as things are up to snuff.

But if I were forced induction I'd consider my radiator choices, too. It's just that I'm not sure how you ensure that an expensive unit like this can actually shed more heat rather than just look good - which it most certainly does. Dunno. Anyhow, I agree it's not a direct comparison since you're definitely able to put more BTU's into your cooling system than I can.

But I still contend WOT for several minutes with a combined GVW of 12,000lbs beats WOT for 30 seconds unladen in terms of cooling and engine stress and heat. I'll see if I can scare up some heat data from the old days. To this day, Vail Pass and others are used for cooling system and destructive engine testing with trailers.


DougM

Doug, all extremely excellent points as always, and as always, no disagreement needed. If for no other reason, I'm a complete clutz at times and almost always find myself making contact with those friggin plastic bypass pieces when I'm working on my rig. Also, if for no other reason, those plastic tanks cannot possibly contribute to cooling like aluminum allows and those plastic tanks cannot possibly cope with regular roddings if that is the thing that's required to totally remove sludge if and when sludge ever shows on my rig. Remember the peace of mind objective here. Moreover, remember the silly stupidity situation here; knowing me as soon as i install a regular replacement rad i will indeed lean too long on one of those plastic bypass pieces and break the friggin thing off - its like this ... I make up for some personal stupidity by alotta common sense coping mechanisms!!!

 

[IdahoDoug]

Heh, I'm that way about a lot of stuff, too.

DougM

 

[Taz]

My Ron Davis made a huge improvement over the stock 97 radiator...don't know how it compares to the superior early 90's 3 core toyota. I had minor fitment problems with the stock shroud. I had a 3/4" gap all the way around...fixed it with some high temp foam weather stripping (very easy). I can't say the shroud gap affected any thing dramatically cooling wise, I saw NO change in coolant temps. I can tell you that I am still getting hot (220+)on 90degree+ days on long steep grades (4miles+ and 6%+)

 

[reffug]

325HP stock is fine.

Turbo you got to much time again.

 

[turbocruiser]

325HP stock is fine.

Turbo you got to much time again.

Yer selling me short, try 375HP!!!

And actually, recently i gots less lazy time than ever, just love this place and these people so much I make time for ya'll! Go ahead, ask me to stop makin so many favors!!!

 

[tiorio]

Maybe I'm just being stodgy, but what's the point of a "billet" radiator?

Billet just means that it is carved out of a large single piece of metal
by machining away material. So, you waste lots of material and precision
machining effort in order to end up with a thin walled hollow structure.
In the process, the grain structure of the original billet is cut through
and interupted.

Forming, drawing, stamping, etc., are superior methods for this kind of
thing. The metal is cold worked in the process and gets stronger.
It doesn't throw away a pile of metal chips. It's automatically a uniform
thin wall structure. It's cheaper.

If more cooling capacity is what's needed, then more tubes and rows is
what you need. Billet has nothing to do with that.

So, what's the point of "billet" here? Bling, bling, look at how much money
I spent to make this thing? Conspicous consumption?

THANK YOU! This is the most overused 'trick' word in the book.

In metallurgy, a billet is a semi-finished length of metal to be worked in a rolling mill or other process.

Wikipedia

It's a pretty alum rad, granted. Calling it billet may sell more units to the masses, but I'd prefer they use the space to sell me on a feature rather than a buzzword...

 

[Tools R Us]

The cap flange looks to be billit!

 

[turbocruiser]

THANK YOU! This is the most overused 'trick' word in the book.

Wikipedia

It's a pretty alum rad, granted. Calling it billet may sell more units to the masses, but I'd prefer they use the space to sell me on a feature rather than a buzzword...

Honestly, I could not care less about looks (as long as its not unbearably ugly) in this instance; its all about performance. Remember I'm the one with the totally trick TRD oil catch can I refuse to use cause its chrome!!!


Seriously, I'd love it if it were flat black as long as it really reliably cooled the cooling system as good as, or preferably more than, the stock setup.

 

[turbocruiser]

Wow, that was totally weird ... for some reason that last post posted twice, my icons and emoticons are all acting strange, and the edit function's extremely different. Not done a drop of rum either???? Hmmmmmm?

 

[Tools R Us]

Wow, that was totally weird ... for some reason that last post posted twice, my icons and emoticons are all acting strange, and the edit function's extremely different. Not done a drop of rum either???? Hmmmmmm?

New software update!

 

[powderpig]

And how would one remove the top tank on a welded unit to be rodded and then rewelded with no loss of usefull capacity? Is this process done on a regular enough basis that most radiator shops do this? Or would you then have to send it out to Ron davis or similar shop to have it rodded if it was plugged? Or is it throwen away and you buy a new one? I am only asking as I do not know how to maintain the flow of a tottally Alum rad. later robbie

 

[turbocruiser]

And how would one remove the top tank on a welded unit to be rodded and then rewelded with no loss of usefull capacity? Is this process done on a regular enough basis that most radiator shops do this? Or would you then have to send it out to Ron davis or similar shop to have it rodded if it was plugged? Or is it throwen away and you buy a new one? I am only asking as I do not know how to maintain the flow of a tottally Alum rad. later robbie

Me neither!

Actually the word rodding was the wrong thing to think, I think, what I was trying to think, I think, was just the process of pressure flushing which I have heard is somewhat trickier to do with the plastic tanks. Theoretically the all aluminum rad could be hooked right up to the pressure flush over and over without any fear of failure.

That and I love billet aluminum!!! Just Joking!

 

[bjowett]

One would assume(?) rodding would never be needed should the system and coolant be kept within spec. The right water, the right coolant, change it once in a while, and it should not clog.

I believe coolant actually never "goes bad", instead the additives deplete and contaminate levels increase to a point where sludging and deposits may form. Large diesel trucks typically have coolant filters that contain an additive that slowly disolves out of the filter to keep things in the proper range.

 

[Steve-O]

Just to clear up any confusion, our aluminum radiators for the 80 are in fact made by Ron Davis.

Now, what radiator is bes tfor the 80, that appears to be another one of those never-ending arguments. Once you factor in capacity, material, cost, design, longevity, fitment, etc. you may be back to personal preference. I feel that on average, an exact replica of a copper or brass radiator made in aluminum will definately cool more efficiently, but which one is more durable or better built...I'm really not sure. The aluminum radiator we offer has not been made as long as the stock, but so far no problems that I know of, they work great!

 

[turbocruiser]

Just to clear up any confusion, our aluminum radiators for the 80 are in fact made by Ron Davis.

Now, what radiator is bes tfor the 80, that appears to be another one of those never-ending arguments. Once you factor in capacity, material, cost, design, longevity, fitment, etc. you may be back to personal preference. I feel that on average, an exact replica of a copper or brass radiator made in aluminum will definately cool more efficiently, but which one is more durable or better built...I'm really not sure. The aluminum radiator we offer has not been made as long as the stock, but so far no problems that I know of, they work great!

Very Cool Steve (ha,ha, cant get enough pun excitement it seems, sorry) thanks for that, can you confirm whether the stock coolant capacity is retained or is it more or less? Also will the rad run the stock cap or a higher pressure/higher performance cap? And also, how many rows, two or three or more? Has anyone measured with an accurate aftermarket gauge the before and after temps between stock rad and this one? Thanks again man.

 

[sleeoffroad]

OTOH, I think it's worth noting that Toyota feels the stock cooling system is adequate for a supercharger, which they sell while keeping the factory warranty intact.

That was more TRD than Toyota. Also not sure how confident they are since they also have a 165 thermostat that is supposed to cure some overheating issues. Still debatable if that does anything.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Yer selling me short, try 375HP!!!

Uh, Turbocruiser have some news for you. Just yesterday we dyno'ed a 93 with supercharger on a 4wd dyno in Parker.. Had on 35's and 4.88 gears. Results are pretty sad. Turbo going to replace supercharger.

So, call me and I will tell you where to take your truck to get the corrected wheel hp.