Wow, Super Cool, MAF Billet Aluminum Rad For FZJ80!

turbocruiser

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LandCruiserPhil said:
For about the same price you can go with a Ron Davis.

Yes, but I have heard of some shroud fitment issues with the RDR??? Can anyone confirm this??? Thanks. :cheers:
 

LandCruiserPhil

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By the looks of the MAF radiator the shroud will fit the same. Who knows maybe its made by Ron Davis for MAF. You can see the fitment issue in a picture on this months ROTW.
 

turbocruiser

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LandCruiserPhil said:
By the looks of the MAF radiator the shroud will fit the same. Who knows maybe its made by Ron Davis for MAF. You can see the fitment issue in a picture on this months ROTW.

Cool, thanks for that! It does indeed look like the same thing! I always thought RDR refused to rebrand, or more accurately, refused to supply other suppliers without stamping, stenciling and permanently painting the brand on the rad??? Thanks again though, I had missed that while reading the rig this week. :cheers:
 
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Agree with what Dan's saying. A new stock 93/94 model rad (copper brass vs 95-97) fits perfect, was designed specifically for the engine and gives me enough cooling for wide open throttle for 3 minutes at low vehicle speed (low airflow). Anyone else going wide open for more than 30 seconds??



DougM
 
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Larry,

That still makes me shake my head and wince, man. I'm so sorry to hear of it. Yeesh.

FYI, she was likely nowhere near WOT, in fact probably less throttle opening than if she were in top gear. If you floored an FZJ on the freeway in 2nd gear, it would go until it overrevved and likely started bouncing valves off the pistons. Total life like that would be measured in minutes. Reminds me of the time I volunteered to drive a pristine Porsche 944 Turbo with 3800 miles on it to the crusher to be turned into a cube of Guard's Red steel. I left it in 1st and bounced it off the rev limiter for about 30 minutes on the freeway on the drive there just out of curiosity. Amazingly (and somewhat disappointingly), it did not blow or show ill effects.

DougM
 
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Yeah, I'd think. Theoretically, going up the same hill while towing at the same speed before installing an SC would produce the same heat load. It's all a matter of fuel burnt and resulting waste BTUs into the cooling system. But you could lean on the loud pedal and produce a boatload MORE heat with the greater output.

DougM
 

Bambusiero

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Maybe I'm just being stodgy, but what's the point of a "billet" radiator?

Billet just means that it is carved out of a large single piece of metal
by machining away material. So, you waste lots of material and precision
machining effort in order to end up with a thin walled hollow structure.
In the process, the grain structure of the original billet is cut through
and interupted.

Forming, drawing, stamping, etc., are superior methods for this kind of
thing. The metal is cold worked in the process and gets stronger.
It doesn't throw away a pile of metal chips. It's automatically a uniform
thin wall structure. It's cheaper.

If more cooling capacity is what's needed, then more tubes and rows is
what you need. Billet has nothing to do with that.

So, what's the point of "billet" here? Bling, bling, look at how much money
I spent to make this thing? Conspicous consumption?
 

LandCruiserPhil

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Bambusiero said:
Maybe I'm just being stodgy, but what's the point of a "billet" radiator?

Billet just means that it is carved out of a large single piece of metal
by machining away material. So, you waste lots of material and precision
machining effort in order to end up with a thin walled hollow structure.
In the process, the grain structure of the original billet is cut through
and interupted.

Forming, drawing, stamping, etc., are superior methods for this kind of
thing. The metal is cold worked in the process and gets stronger.
It doesn't throw away a pile of metal chips. It's automatically a uniform
thin wall structure. It's cheaper.

If more cooling capacity is what's needed, then more tubes and rows is
what you need. Billet has nothing to do with that.

So, what's the point of "billet" here? Bling, bling, look at how much money
I spent to make this thing? Conspicous consumption?

If MAF radiator is "billet" its not a Ron Davis. The only billet part of a RDR is the aluminum fittings. The rest of it is pieced together and tig welded. But a RDR is a beautiful thing - aka Bling. :flipoff2:
 

turbocruiser

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cruiserdan said:
Is it twice as good as a stocker?

Dunno, prolly not for stock setup but I'm always aware and anxious about the heat load that the turbo must add. I'm also always aware and anxious about my silly stupidity and the fact that it is only a tick of time till I break off one of those tiny plastic bypass bungs on the tanks. Lastly I worry with plastic tanks' pressure ratings and with plastic tanks' propensity to leak around all them thar crimp connections...


Basically I pay for peace of mind, and ... , basically I rely on the fine forum folks to pose such ponderings to. So if there is agreement that this radiator has higher cooling capacity, higher fool proof factor, or higher pressure holding ability, or lower leak propensity, then I think that they got a customer cashing in whenever my rig's radiator show signs of some sludge or some seepage or whatever.


But, since I worry wart with whatever I can, one thing on my mind with this wild rad is the space around shroud. Going back to the terrific thread that several super smart folks here (photoman, toolrus, phil, etc) contributed to concluded that the fan shroud significantly affected cooling capacity. I wonder how much cooling capacity is lost by leaking in and out of that space around shroud???


Hmmm, decisions decisions, thank god i've got you sane folks here to help me through this insanity. Anyone got an Ativan or two to take??? :D
 

turbocruiser

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IdahoDoug said:
Agree with what Dan's saying. A new stock 93/94 model rad (copper brass vs 95-97) fits perfect, was designed specifically for the engine and gives me enough cooling for wide open throttle for 3 minutes at low vehicle speed (low airflow). Anyone else going wide open for more than 30 seconds??



DougM

Doug, no offense, but not so sure its apples to apples here; forced induction vs normal induction, higher altitude vs. medium altitude, super steep grades constantly vs. some steep grades from time to time, and the fact that yes off and on I'm at WOT for some long stretches exceeding 30 seconds. Besides, you are a good enough wrench to replace your headgasket while I'm only a good enough wrench to replace my radiator. :D :cheers: :D
 
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