Work Truck Build Up (6 Viewers)

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Bit of an update, I should have gotten to this stage over the weekend, but things happen I guess. Finished stripping the front clip with the help of my brother. Will get to stripping down the frame, hopefully the fuel tank, and cleaning the engine up a bit this weekend. Also posting up a picture of the drunken night when I had my brother and a few buddies push it into the shop.
Enjoy.
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HI Deny,

I've been getting white smoke on start up on cold days here - so I figure it's glow plugs - found them here for a great price, not sure if we canget them locally cheaper though. I figure 75 bucks is a pretty good price for 6 plugs. I bought mine from roodogs - I have picked up alot from them.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=1HZ+glow&category0=

Easy to replace while you have everything apart.
 
Yeah, I'm already going all out, so might as well replace everything I need to.
 
Well, while you are doing the timing belt you should do the water pump as well - it isn't very expensive. Change the belt tensioner as well when you are in there, and a new seal too for the plastic timing case cover. Valve cover gasket too. Make sure you folllow the correct proceedure for replacing the belt - use a wrench on the cam shaft to keep it from moving.
 
Well, thought I would post a pic of the current state, doesn't look much different, stripped a few more things, and started doing some cleaning. Sort of a bitch to clean up, as some of that dust is pretty much concrete, but once off, looks pretty good, almost new! Also posting a pic of my suspension, as I have a bit of a question for anyone in the know (I ain't no steering speciallist). Anyway, the drag link is at quit an angle, and I was just wondering if that is a big issue, or will I have to get some kind of custom dropped pitman arm (don't really know the terminology, but the arm off the steering box)?
Thanks.
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How's the Simple Green working out?
 
simple green is pretty good, works better when it soaks in a bit, but some stuff is just really stuborn.
 
Done quite a bit on the weekend with the help of Nathan, and my brother. Worked hard all weekend to get the majority of it stripped down, most of the stuff off the frame, off the firewall, cleaned up some more stuff, stripped more off the engine, and dropped the tank.
Here are a few crappy pics of the progress, note I am running out of space to store stuff in my tiny shop. Note to Santa: need a bigger shop!:D
Cheers,
Deny
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Anyway, the drag link is at quit an angle, and I was just wondering if that is a big issue, or will I have to get some kind of custom dropped pitman arm (don't really know the terminology, but the arm off the steering box)?
Thanks.

It you need a drop arm, a 60 series one will get you another inch and a bit. Its a bolt on affair. Save your arm for a 60 series guy who's doing a springover and needs a flatter one to clear the leaf pack.
 
Thanks Bruce,
So do you suggest I swap it then? I should take a picture of it, but it's got some kind of funny bananna arm on there now, which is quite long too, will that affect my choice too?
Cheers,
Deny
 
Thanks Bruce,
So do you suggest I swap it then? I should take a picture of it, but it's got some kind of funny bananna arm on there now, which is quite long too, will that affect my choice too?
Cheers,
Deny

Hmmm If it has a banana on there, Cory must have swapped it already. Looking at the picture of the rig coming out of the garage, it actually doesn't look too bad. Once you get a bumper and winch on there you'll probably be where you want to be.
 
No, Cory was trying to take it off, but it wasn't comming, but he gave me a 60 or 80 arm to possibly put in. I will take pictures of both arms tommorow and post them up.
Cheers,
Deny
 
Ok here are the pics. The bananna arm is set up to line up with the panhard bar frame mount, so I don't know if I will be affecting it by having a strait arm, I just want to know if it would be more benaficial to drop it by like an inch (to have a more level drag link) or have the panhard bar similar length to the drag link. I know I have to make the panhard bar as parallel as possibel to the drag link, but that is the best research I can find, any suggestions would be nice. Ideally with the body back on and with a winch and bumber the front should sit down a bit and it won't be such an issue.
Cheers,
Deny
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A bunch of guys in Australia have done 6 inch lifts, might be a good idea to tap their brains and see what they did. www.outerlimits4x4.com and 4wdmonthly.com.au

I'll be adding a 6 inch lift to my project 79 so i can run 37's and I'll need to figure it out as well. I'll probabaly get the dropped radius arms they have:

http://72.34.32.141/~snakerac/produ...=2115&osCsid=98eba8bf1ff98e980ab18629d5bf0c66

And I'll coil the rear end as well. Probably use 80 series front and rears with lockers, or maybe even a nissan patrol front end if I can get one - they are supposed to be pretty beefy. Or, I might just keep the 79 series front and rear ends - the brakes are huge and they stop better than any cruiser I have ever driven with a load on. Decisions decisions.
 
Thanks Louis, I'll see if what the Auzzies are doing.

Bruce, how is your drag link on your 74, is it level, or angled, and how does it drive, any bump steer?
 
lookin good, four more bolts and its a frame off
 
Ok, you two vote it up, then you guys can hold up the tub while I clean and paint the underside.

Really though, I think if I pull the Transmission, should be just as good.
 

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