Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (2 Viewers)

[ginmtb]

Mike - as I said a while back, I've never seen that green battery cutoff switch - others said that they also used the same switch and it worked fine.

But, is there any way that this switch is going bad and causing you to lose power?

When you are jumping your battery, is your battery actually 'down' or not?

Is it possible that you have a lose connection where you spliced your fusible link into your wiring harness? I asked this before, but don't recall your response.

You know I was going to take off that green thingy now that it appears my parasitic leak is goner (knock on wood). Also, I have a spare fusible link, I will try putting that one in place. I have read that sometimes the wire inside is blown but the insulator isn't.

For good measure, I put the charger on my battery to top it off. 12.89V. Still nothing. So I don't think it is the battery - but I will take it in to get looked at just in case.

I think though I'm going to step away from the Cruiser until this weekend when I can devote some quality time. Plus I'm a bit irritated so I know that isn't the best time to be working on it lol.

 

[kruisinkid]

i have the same "switch", though its not a switch. theres no moving parts. its just a large thumb screw that completes the circuit. its easily cross threadable, but would still make the connection. having 12+v at the solenoid confirms this, though he would have to have metered it with the key in the START position, not just run, which i assume he did.

i really feel like its either the fuse panel, ignition switch, or harness around the pedal bucket/fuse block area.

also, does your carb have the 12v idle circuit as the slightly later ones do? is that getting 12v with the key in the ON position?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I agree, but his fusible link is also new (around the same time as the radio removal and fuse block work).

Mike: I'm not really suggesting the fusible link is bad - what I'm wondering is whether it's possible you have a bad connection where you spliced the fusible link into the harness over the passenger wheel well? I'm just trying to help you eliminate possibilities. But I agree with kruisinkid that your problems seem to be in the pedal bucket area (fuse panel, ignition switch, harness, any area where wires breach to firewall, with no grommet, etc.)

 

[ginmtb]

Okay, decided I couldn't wait and took off the fuse box and checked everything for continuity. That seems to be a non-issue. All seemed good. Tried the lights/stereo in the ACC position nothing. Then I decided what the heck, I'll take off the green thingy on the battery. Lights on fully and stereo worked. But no click when trying to start. So I'll keep troubleshooting. I will inspect the fusible link/connection and see if that helps.

 

[kruisinkid]

my money is now on the ignition switch. its cheap enough and 40 years old. get a new one and a new VR and you should be set for another 40 years. rules out 2 major, and mechanical, parts in the electrical system

 

[ginmtb]

Hey so on the advice of a friend, I got a new starter solenoid. It appears I can install that without taking the starter out. Is that an accurate statement?

Waiting on the VR to arrive next week. Will look into the ignition switch. Any good sources for that?


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[kruisinkid]

because im bored at work: http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~switch~assy~ignition~or~starter~84450-60070.html

i highly doubt its the solenoid. if you cant get it to stay running when you got it jumped, thats a much bigger problem. that would mean voltage is not getting from the battery, through the ignition and to the coil/igniter and on to the dizzy.

if you cant simply hotwire the starter with a piece of heavy wire or screwdriver and at least get the starter to move powered off your battery, then you have 2 problems. however, both issues i just mentioned depend on the same battery. this comes back to having the battery tested, or borrow a friends battery to test if you feel you wont fry a friends battery also

 

[ginmtb]

So interesting - I swapped out my fusible link and now all electrical systems appear to be working correctly - dash lights, hazards, parking lights, etc.

But still can't start it. Not even a click. Tried jump starting to no avail either. Not even a click.

Can someone explain to me how to hot wire? As I've mentioned I'm a total newb and am not comfortable putting a screwdriver across something lol.


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[ginmtb]

Checked continuity on the fusible link and it was fine. Very strange.


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[ginmtb]

In the process of taking out battery this happened:

Will need to replace that. Wonder if that is my problem. Well, I suppose one of several potentially. Can't imagine it is helping.


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[kruisinkid]

the gist of hotwiring is taking a short piece of 12 gauge wire and momentarily holding it from the main 12v lug that goes to the battery and the other end goes to the lug where the 12 or 10 gauge wire attaches coming from the ignition switch. with the newer GR starters (which i highly recommend you get if you can swing the dough) you can skip the wire and use a screwdriver, the contacts are that close. i dont think the original's lugs are close enough, but i dont remember correctly.

again, if you are going to the hassle of replacing the starter solenoid, just get a GR starter. makes all the difference in the world. i know you didnt really want to hear that you need or should want another part at the moment, but maybe soon after you get this electrical nonsense sorted out

 

[kruisinkid]

In the process of taking out battery this happened:

View attachment 919093
Will need to replace that. Wonder if that is my problem. Well, I suppose one of several potentially. Can't imagine it is helping.


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depending on how you had the fusible link attached to that terminal end, that could have been your problem. there is a chance. i would say your priorities are:
-get battery tested
-replace main battery wire and dont tighten as much

then try to fire up. really hope it was that simple. do you have a pic before you took the battery out of how the fusible link was connected to the main?

 

[ginmtb]

Just got the battery tested and all was good. I also got the cable replaced. Will reinstall later tonight. I picked up a side lug for the battery I'll mount the fusible link and amp wire to that.

I have read about the GR starter and definitely thinking going that route. I read Georg in Stockton is a good source for those.


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[kruisinkid]

georg was my source. it was a very good choice. excellent price for a gently used one.

hope it was just that cracked battery cable.

 

[ginmtb]

Holy hell it's running! So excited! Guess there were some bad connections related to the battery.

Keeping fingers crossed it stays this way!


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[Solace in Solitude]

Don't ever turn it off!

 

[ginmtb]

Just drove it twice - and powered it down between. Daughter wanted a ride. Felt so good to drive again!!!

Thanks for all the help troubleshooting - it's a marathon that's for sure. But now I can send it off to have some work done on it since it is leaking oil pretty badly at the transfer case shaft I believe (comes out the parking brake).


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[ginmtb]

Well crap wouldn't start today (but did turnover just wouldn't stay running). Went and checked under the hood battery was fine. And then noticed the cable from the dizzy to the coil was under the battery pulled tight and tensioning both ends. I imagine I damaged something hence it not starting (if I held the ignition on it would stay running but obviously that isn't correct). What a stupid mistake. Of course nothing can be easy... :|


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[kruisinkid]

did you try to just push both ends back in to the coil and dizzy? have you replaced the dizzy wires or are they newish? corroded in the dizzy or coil plug terminals? the hood of the wires slide over the wire.

 

[ginmtb]

did you try to just push both ends back in to the coil and dizzy? have you replaced the dizzy wires or are they newish? corroded in the dizzy or coil plug terminals? the hood of the wires slide over the wire.

Yes I pushed them back in but will try again. They appear to be newish and I didn't see any corrosion.


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