wiring nightmare.

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If you need any o9f thos efi parts let me know what you need I probably have. Fairly cheap and on most probably just the price of shipping.
 
yotayes88 said:
If you need any o9f thos efi parts let me know what you need I probably have. Fairly cheap and on most probably just the price of shipping.
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I'll look over everything and pm you if I'm missing something. In the mean time, I found this photo that shows the last connectors I'm having trouble with. They are below the intake next to the charcoal canister.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u25/ultimaterides/Yotawire1.jpg

I assume the white is 4wd, the green wire/black connector I do not know, and the off white connector I do not know.

Anyone know what they are and of they are necessary?
 
When I pruchased my 1988 pickup it did not have to plugs, the wires were just spliced together. And if I'm not mistaken when I put my new engine in my pickup the wires came disconnected and one of them grounded off on the frame and caused the efi fuse to blow everytime I turned the key over. Do those wires run next to the oil filter area?
 
ok then I'm thinking of the right wires then. Gave me a frustrating problem to find out what was causing my fuse to pop everytime I would turn the key and that was the issue
 
Bump, still need to identify this last plug. It is marked for cold start injector, igniter, and a red/blue wire with black dashes.

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1390186420480.webp
 
I love your "lift"!
 
Alright, will do. I'm currently attaching injector plugs. I don't think it matter if I use 86 injectors and plugs on the 88 harness and computer, or at this point I certainly hope not.
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It may make a difference. Your 86 has a ballast resistor on the inner passenger fender that is part of the body harness. This is needed because the 86 had low impedance injectors approx. 1.3 ohms. In Aug 88 Toyota changed to high impedance injectors approx 13 ohms and the ballast resistor was no longer required. If your ecu and engine is Aug 88 or later Your body harness may not match up with the 88 ECU or engine harness. At the very least you will have to splice around the ballast resistor.
 
I found that out in my latest research.

I have 86 harness, 86 injectors, and an 88 ECU. I haven't looked at the date of the ECU yet... lots of other projects going on. If it is an 8/88 ECU or newer I should just simply find an older one, no?
 
It started and idles. No coolant so im just idling for a minute or two tops. Im blinking codes when I jump the diagnostics.

It goes like this.

I..II..II..IIIII..I then long pause and starts over. I see code 12 and 25, but whats the last I for?
I..II..II..IIIII..I
 
KLF said:
Seriously? You're running it without coolant?
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Not for any period of time. With hours between starts. I wanted to make sure it would a)run and b)not leak any fuel before I buttoned it up. I bought new radiator hoses this afternoon and it'll have all that stuff in it tomorrow.

Did I screw something up? My dad and I would do this all the time growing up. But it was domestic v8s.
 
You should be fine letting it idle for a minute or two without coolant. I've done this 2 times on different 22re engines.
 
I didn't think so.

I ohmd out the TPS and it checked out good, but I have serious problems going from idle to any throttle fast. It loads up and backfires through the intake. I checked timing, 5* with connections shorted. If I pull TPS plug off it idles higher but doesn't choke out as bad?

Trying to make sure no air pockets exist in coolant.

uploadfromtaptalk1392601334362.webp
 
Try setting your timing again, except put the crank pully on 0
 
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