Windshield molding rivets (do not drill)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 24, 2016
Threads
41
Messages
159
Location
Santa Clara, CA
Had to remove the passenger side windshield molding that runs down the pillar. The guy installed it incorrectly and the double sided tape came off and snapped my luggage carrier cap. Costed me $90 for the cap and another $150 for the new molding.

While taking the molding off which is held by 4 rivets, realized that the guy who did the windshield drilled the rivets!!! drilling if not done correctly will increase the rivet hole diameter and the OE rivets wont fit!!! sucks...

I used this vibrating dremel blade between the molding and the pillar with a metal blade and basically cut the rivtes in half. Took me 5 mins. I think this is the cleanest way to take those rivets off. Putting some primer and paint back where the blade scratched before installing the new molding.

But this tool was a life saver. Hopefully will be helpful to someone looking to do this job and not screw up his OE rivet holes.
 
Last edited:
Love those oscillating tools but have to imagine it would gouge up the A-pillar paint and/or trim, as you mention touching up the paint afterwards. I saw a windshield installer use a sharpened spackle knife and hammer to basically cut through the rivet between the trim and paint one time. Made me cringe seeing him hammer through the rivet. Surprisingly he left practically no damage to the paint.

Drilling rivets out carefully is definitely the best way. They sell different sized rivets for oversized holes as well.
 
Hammering the rivet from the top is probably the worst way. Can easily damage the hole in the pillar. The original OEM rivets are thin enough to handle that i think. Most people with drilled holes will use bigger size rivets which are harder to hammer, hence this tool.

I was not planning to re-use the molding and it was already damaged so went this way. Plus no danger of cracking the windshield as it was a DIY job. It does scratch the paint on the inner side of the pillar which I am doing a light touch up with the aerosol OE paint bottle.
 
Easiest, is to drill out/off head of rivet, only. Don't punch drill through "A" pillar or molding. Then use a round flat punch to tap rivet shaft through into "A" pillar cavity.

If paint is chipped away from body in riet hole. I use POR-15 to paint. If hole oversize, a little. POR-15 can be built up in layers, to make hole smaller.
 
POR 15 is really meant to be used over a rusty surface, hence the name “paint over rust”. Otherwise it will peel/crack over time. Epoxy primer is your best solution. I recommend Southern Polyurethanes epoxy primer.
 
POR 15 is really meant to be used over a rusty surface, hence the name “paint over rust”. Otherwise it will peel/crack over time. Epoxy primer is your best solution. I recommend Southern Polyurethanes epoxy primer.
Epoxy primer is a very good choice.

POR-15 will not hold, on smooth non porous surface, like plastic.

POR-15 holds supper well on rust or concert because, they're so porous. POR-15 will stick to bare metal also. Provide POR degreased used, and then POR Metal prep (acid etch and zinc coat) for 20 minutes. Smooth Bare Metal, cured paint or epoxy need sanding first to score. POR-15 hold to paint, but is only can hold if paint does.

POR-15 is strong, oxygen and moisture impervious and resistant to most chemicals.
 
Back
Top Bottom