Window trim install

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hammerheadfistpunch

hammerheadfistpunch

10 Year
Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Threads
174
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1,272
Location
Sandy Utah area
I just got some new window trim (the rubber window guides) because the old ones were drying out and shrinking, but I have no idea how to install them, do they just press in? is there an adhesive kit? I don't want to pull the old ones out and hold a big old pile of "oh crud" in my hands.
 
No adhesive.
Search window runs. Lots of stuff to read. Takes longer to read about than do. You will likely find it easiest to remove door cards first. Then do your work.
 
Start in the upper corner. Where there is a known 90% angle. Be careful not to push it downwards too much while pushing it inwards as it will stretch out the rubber and you'll end up with leftover. Overall a very simple job. You'll be happy you did it.
 
No adhesive.
Search window runs. Lots of stuff to read. Takes longer to read about than do. You will likely find it easiest to remove door cards first. Then do your work.
 
Done, broke a grundle of 20 something year old plastic tabs (that stupid trim on the outside of the window on the bottom) so its double sided tape until I can glue/buy/fab some new ones. Also, I noticed that my window isn't going up in the track correctly...is there any adjustment on the regulator? It goes up strait but near the top the back part comes forward out of the guides and causes the front part of the window to fold in the inside of the guide because its misaligned. Its a new regulator and motor (well about 2 years old). Getting the window out was not fun (I don't like messing with glass) but it came out fine.
 
Where the angle is in the glass, the front or leading edge, does it go into the corisponding angle of the door nicely?
I had to open that area up the a bit with little pry bar. Then the glass fit in better and stopped going cockeyed.
Is the new window run seated correctly? I had to fiddle with it a bit to get it right or it would bind a bit.
I'm trying to remember what it looks like in there....
There is a steel flat bar running up and down in the front of the door. Just forward if the glass. It's tack welded on the top and bottom through ltitle holes in that piece. Mine was broken loose. That let the whole giddy up move and caused binding. So I drilled holes through and bolted that piece back on. On the bottom of the ps. The top of ds was broken as well but I left it alone. Not enough room to work in there. Look for that.
Your window is binding somewhere. Just before it cocks forward is likely where it binds. Run it up and down until you find the spot. Then....dunno. Fix something.
Also, I remember the new runs being much tighter fit to the glass and that made the window a bit slower and exaggerated the problems I already had.

The flat metal piece on my wagon came loose because PO had speakers that were too deep. They pushed on that metal strip and broke them loose.
You'll get it together. Just keep watching it go up and down.
 
hammerheadfistpunch said:
Done, broke a grundle of 20 something year old plastic tabs (that stupid trim on the outside of the window on the bottom) so its double sided tape until I can glue/buy/fab some new ones. Also, I noticed that my window isn't going up in the track correctly...is there any adjustment on the regulator? It goes up strait but near the top the back part comes forward out of the guides and causes the front part of the window to fold in the inside of the guide because its misaligned. Its a new regulator and motor (well about 2 years old). Getting the window out was not fun (I don't like messing with glass) but it came out fine.
Click to expand...

I had the same issue with my window coming out of the run and sitting outside the rubber strip. Put strain on the motor and it wouldn't go up without help.

Now that I replaced them, it follows the groove correctly and goes up without issue. I should have replaced the window motors as they are 25 years old and slow, but they work much better than before.
 
Tedward said:
Where the angle is in the glass, the front or leading edge, does it go into the corisponding angle of the door nicely?
I had to open that area up the a bit with little pry bar. Then the glass fit in better and stopped going cockeyed.
Is the new window run seated correctly? I had to fiddle with it a bit to get it right or it would bind a bit.
I'm trying to remember what it looks like in there....
There is a steel flat bar running up and down in the front of the door. Just forward if the glass. It's tack welded on the top and bottom through ltitle holes in that piece. Mine was broken loose. That let the whole giddy up move and caused binding. So I drilled holes through and bolted that piece back on. On the bottom of the ps. The top of ds was broken as well but I left it alone. Not enough room to work in there. Look for that.
Your window is binding somewhere. Just before it cocks forward is likely where it binds. Run it up and down until you find the spot. Then....dunno. Fix something.
Also, I remember the new runs being much tighter fit to the glass and that made the window a bit slower and exaggerated the problems I already had.

The flat metal piece on my wagon came loose because PO had speakers that were too deep. They pushed on that metal strip and broke them loose.
You'll get it together. Just keep watching it go up and down.
Click to expand...

mine is tilting forward from the word go...the runs are installed right, I took a lot of time last night and made sure they were seated 100% and i siliconed the path...I wonder if I have to go in and creat some artificial space
 
Check that the metal channel the window glass is mounted in is adjusted as indicated in this diagram from the service manual:

upload_2016-8-25_11-4-47.webp


I made the mistake of not looking into this when I replaced my window runs & since the glass on my driver door had slid forward in the channel, the back edge of the metal channel overhung the glass & started shredding my new window runs.:bang:

Thankfully it seems to be working fine after correcting the channel position when I had to replace the window motor.

Having the glass out of the door also gives you an opportunity to thoroughly clean it, & make sure the window runs are fully seated in the lowest portions of the track. I didn't remove the windows when I originally replaced the runs & they were a complete bear to get seated in the bottom portion of the track inside the door.

2cents.gif
 
FloydtheDog said:
Check that the metal channel the window glass is mounted in is adjusted as indicated in this diagram from the service manual:

View attachment 1311510

I made the mistake of not looking into this when I replaced my window runs & since the glass on my driver door had slid forward in the channel, the back edge of the metal channel overhung the glass & started shredding my new window runs.:bang:

Thankfully it seems to be working fine after correcting the channel position when I had to replace the window motor.

Having the glass out of the door also gives you an opportunity to thoroughly clean it, & make sure the window runs are fully seated in the lowest portions of the track. I didn't remove the windows when I originally replaced the runs & they were a complete bear to get seated in the bottom portion of the track inside the door.

View attachment 1311515
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, the instructions are a little unclear for this though, can you elaborate on how to make adjustments to this channel?
 
hammerheadfistpunch said:
Thanks for this, the instructions are a little unclear for this though, can you elaborate on how to make adjustments to this channel?
Click to expand...

Measure it as shown in the diagram & if it is out of spec, pull it off of the window & reinstall it in the correct position with a rubber mallet or plastic hammer. I did not use a screwdriver to remove it as mentiond in the manual, I put the wood handle of my rubber mallet against it & tapped the head of the hammer with my free hand to drive it off the glass. There is no adhesive holding the channel on, it just kinda clamps on the bottom of the glass.
 
Awsome, thanks. Do you lube the channel with soapy water? or is that in reference to the rubber window run?
 
hammerheadfistpunch said:
Awsome, thanks. Do you lube the channel with soapy water? or is that in reference to the rubber window run?
Click to expand...

I don't recall putting anything on the channel or the glass before reassembling.

I suppose a spritz or few drops of windex might make reassembly easier. I would recommend if you do use something that you allow adequate time for it to thoroughly evaporate before putting the window back in the door to be sure that the channel doesn't slide around any when raising or lowering the window.
 
hammerheadfistpunch said:
Done, broke a grundle of 20 something year old plastic tabs (that stupid trim on the outside of the window on the bottom) so its double sided tape until I can glue/buy/fab some new ones.
Click to expand...

These plastic clips for the exterior window belt moldings are available from the dealer, FYI.
 
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