Window rebounding

[JtFSU]

2008 LC- in the last week I’ve noticed my passenger front window will not roll all the way up in continuous motion. Whether using auto function, or just holding the switch, it bounces back down about 2/3 of the way up. If I then “bump” the switch a little at a time, it will make it past that point and I can close it.

Have researched and tried the limit reset- roll down and hold button down for 5 seconds, then roll closed and hold for 5 seconds. The second step is hard because you can’t get it closed in a fluid step.

Doesn’t seem to be an obstruction, but I guess there could be the slightest bit of friction internally at that point causing the issue.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Willy beamin]

spray some graphite powder on the window runs. Work the button / window up and down several times to try and get that solution into the track / run as a whole. See if that is the fix.
good luck
Blaster 5.5 oz. Industrial Graphite Dry Lubricant-8-GS - The Home Depot - amazon has this too

 

[JtFSU]

spray some graphite powder on the window runs. Work the button / window up and down several times to try and get that solution into the track / run as a whole. See if that is the fix.
good luck
Blaster 5.5 oz. Industrial Graphite Dry Lubricant-8-GS - The Home Depot - amazon has this too

Tried this, sprayed in the tracks above window sill. Next step I guess is to open the door further and figure out where the friction is, or if the motor is just getting tired. I read a few places that as they get older, some motors will overheat easily, causing this symptom.

Any other suggestions?

 

[Markuson]

Tried this, sprayed in the tracks above window sill. Next step I guess is to open the door further and figure out where the friction is, or if the motor is just getting tired. I read a few places that as they get older, some motors will overheat easily, causing this symptom.

Any other suggestions?

Try closing it WITHOUT activating the auto-close function (don’t push the up button far enough to click, and you’ll stay in manual mode). If it closes fine in manual mode...it’s probably not the motor. If it DOES rebound in manual mode...there is something else going on...maybe the resistance sensor.

The safety-rebound feature/sensor is crazy sensitive...

 

[KLF]

I had a power window acting really wonky in a Highlander, it would always go down fine, then a few seconds later refuse to close all the way. A new motor from Toyota was over $300, so I was trying everything I could think of to get it fixed. Even unplugged the darned thing for awhile so we wouldn't get stuck in a snowstorm with a down window. That sucked. Then one day I searched Amazon, and they had aftermarket motors for $40, so I took the plunge. That was quite a few years ago, and it's still working fine.

 

[bloc]

I haven't had a 200 window motor apart yet but if they are anything like the ones in my 80 they aren't too difficult to disassemble if you are decent with detail work. From there you can clean the armature, check brush condition, clean out the brush holders.. etc. Guys had problems finding new brushes for the 80 motors but for the 200 they might be available.

I just did as described above on my 80 motors and they went from being like they were in slow motion to moving as if new. And I was still using high-quality OEM motors.

Just an idea, if you narrow it down to a motor issue.

 

[JtFSU]

Try closing it WITHOUT activating the auto-close function (don’t push the up button far enough to click, and you’ll stay in manual mode). If it closes fine in manual mode...it’s probably not the motor. If it DOES rebound in manual mode...there is something else going on...maybe the resistance sensor.

The safety-rebound feature/sensor is crazy sensitive...

It does it even when in manual mode. The only way to get it up is to keep bumping the switch to move it about an inch at a time. It is very consistent about where it rebounding, regardless of the starting point. This leads me to believe it is more an issue with friction and the overly sensitive safety. I have noticed all the windows rebound if raising on auto while driving a a rough road.

I have the interior door panel off. Looks like the only way to the internal tracks is to remove the interior skin, which appears to be about 6 bolts.

Any tricks or things to be aware of before this next venture?

 

[LoveHateToyota]

I'd try the reprogram procedure.

WEBSITE.WS - Your Internet Address For Life™

If that doesn't work then there is another issue. The next step is to pull codes and possibly the motor needs replacing.

WEBSITE.WS - Your Internet Address For Life™

^Motor removal procedure can be found here too. But I would try the reprogram first.

btw... everyone looks like there's another site up with the repair manual. Toyota TechDoc
No clue as to what year or country. Looks Russian. Still a good place to look though.

 

[JtFSU]

Well reset procedures listed above didn’t work. Guess next step is to get Codes. Assuming this will require techstream?

If so, anyone in the north Atlanta/ Roswell area that has it?

 

[phatairman]

Well reset procedures listed above didn’t work. Guess next step is to get Codes. Assuming this will require techstream?

If so, anyone in the north Atlanta/ Roswell area that has it?

Your doing the reset procedure with the passenger side window switch, correct? I tried to do it with master driver switch, and that is not the procedure. You have to use the window switch of the afflicted window.

 

[chilibit]

You might be able to test the friction sensitivity by using two people--- one to activate the switch and one to 'assist' the upward motion using one hand on the outside and one on the inside. Two hands lets you assist to the fully closed position.

 

[JtFSU]

Your doing the reset procedure with the passenger side window switch, correct? I tried to do it with master driver switch, and that is not the procedure. You have to use the window switch of the afflicted window.

Yes. Using the switch on the passenger door.

You might be able to test the friction sensitivity by using two people--- one to activate the switch and one to 'assist' the upward motion using one hand on the outside and one on the inside. Two hands lets you assist to the fully closed position.

I tried to assist the window, but it still rebounds, so it is not something binding.