Will turn over but does not start

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Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Threads
20
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52
Location
Denver
2000 Land Cruiser, turning over just fine but will not start. New starter 25k miles ago. Have tried replacing the 20a fuse and installed the aftermarket relay many of you have used ( photo for reference ). Cant seem to figure it out, any obvious things to check ? Ive read through the forums and kind of lost as to where to start.

LC.webp
 
Will check pressure but doesnt a fuel pump show signs of failure vs just failing out of the blue ? It ran fine and started right up 10 minutes before. Parked it and tried starting again and here we are.
The first stage of its progression of demise is intermittent failure. On mine, it would fail then fire up after a few hours or overnight. I gets progressively worse until it falls off while running.
 
Will check pressure but doesnt a fuel pump show signs of failure vs just failing out of the blue ? It ran fine and started right up 10 minutes before. Parked it and tried starting again and here we are.
Not with my 80. After getting me home from a road trip to interior Alaska it just simply failed to start next time I got in. Ran fine on road trip, no issues.
 
I'll take a guess.

For the relay bypass connection in fuse box shown above, did you try to connect the fused wire to the 20 amp fuse slot instead of directly to the battery?
 
Crank No Start .
Have someone crank it while you spray starter fluid/ carb cleaner into throttle body, if it starts then you have a fuel issue, if it doesn’t try to start it’s not fuel, then probably electrical, plug a code reader and scan to get some ideas of what to chase after, either immobilizer (not sure if immobilization in the LC cuts off electricity or fuel..) or crank sensor, ignition or…

If it starts for a few seconds with carb cleaner then you can check pressure, I believe you can rent a fuel pressure tester from the auto parts stores, or get one from HF for cheap. Careful with fuel spraying all over when you disconnect a line from the fuel rails plug in tester, I believe you should see around 50psi or so, and the pressure should stay there steady. If not enough pressure, or the pressure goes down quickly after cranking, the pump is the culprit.
If fuel pressure ok and it does start with carb cleaner, you can chase after pump intermittent electrics (like relay) or might have big vacuum leaks.

Keep us posted.
 
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May want to rule out the Crank position sensor. If it is turning over but not cranking. Worth a quick check. It worked for me. My start was intermitten then it was not cranking at all..

Quick AI search / copy paste here.


    • If the tachometer needle stays at zero (does not move):
      • The ECU is not seeing an engine RPM signal.
      • This strongly points to a failed crankshaft position sensor, a broken/pinched sensor wire, a bad connector (common near the starter/sump area where wires get pinched or chafed), or a blown fuse/power supply issue to the ECU/ignition circuit. [1, 2, 3]
    • If the tachometer needle jumps or registers a small RPM (e.g., ~150–250 RPM) while cranking:
      • The crankshaft position sensor is generating and sending a rotation signal to the ECU.
      • If the engine still won't start despite tach movement, your problem is likely elsewhere—such as a lack of fuel pressure, a bad fuel pump, a main relay issue, a lack of spark (ignition coils/igniter), or flooded cylinders rather than the crank sensor itself
    Good luck.
 
I was having this issue, turns out my battery was completely drained but just had enough to crank the engine not keep it running. I noticed you have the 24f, might be worth the quick drive to the parts store to just get it tested. I believe the recommended one is 27f, worth a shot imo. Just one easy thing to rule out
 
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