Who replaces pads and doesn't turn the rotors? (1 Viewer)

[powderpig]

If you want to spend the money on a turning then fine, I sounds to me they want to charge you for something that does not need to happen if they would just take sand paper and scotch brite pad and a little elbow grease it will come clean. It is not that hard, or time conusuming. later robbie

 

[SWUtah]

I figure if this local guy wants to turn the rotors it is a waste of my money if I don't have a vibration. I will go to Toyota and have them just do the pads for a fraction of the price. Thanks for the replies.

 

[firetruck41]

If they are anything like the 80, the front pads take about 5 min per side to replace after you remove the tire, and don't require you to touch a wrench, just tug on the safety wire, pull pad, pry (gently) piston back in, replace pad, replace wire, put tire on, repeat. The rears take about 10-15min per side and require the removal of two bolts. Of course it may be alot different on the 100, point is if you don't do it yourself, I hope you don't have to pay too much for such a simple job, less than 1 hr work for a pro.

Taking it to the dealer or mechanic does not ensure the job is done right, on my LX450, the PO had all work done by dealer or mechanic. I replaced my pads right after I bought it, I found a brake pad on the front end installed backwards and suffering some unusual wear!

 

[SWUtah]

The last item I have on my new to me 99 is to have all of the old brake fluid flushed out and replaced so I will have new front and rear pads done at that time, since it will make a difference in the amount of fluid in the system. Ben you bring up a good question about the difference between the 80 and 100 brakes. I had a 95 80 but never did the pads myself so I don't know if they are different. The last time I did brakes on a car was back in 1971 on my 1968 Chevelle SS 396, 375 hp. Guess I've just been lazy since then. . I do change oil/filter Mobil 1, I know I could figure it out since I use to help my Dad rebuild engines and restore cars, but its been a long time and at 56, I would rather have a mechanic I trust work on my vehilces. I guess its kind of sad. I enjoy understanding the vehicle and knowing what I need to have done and how to do it I just don't enjoy the wrenching.

 

[sk8rider]

Once the rotors are turned once, do they have to continue to be turned when new pads are needed? The previous owner had them turned at 42k. I'm now at 68k and have just been informed I need the rotors to be turned, new pads, and repack the front bearings...(apparently no real damage yet, but "due for a brake job") I'm just wondering if I can get by with putting new pads on instead of the whole (costly) shabang. The shop wants $399 for the front and $230 for the rear. This seems really high to me, even for California.

Anyway, any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[SWUtah]

Once the rotors are turned once, do they have to continue to be turned when new pads are needed? The previous owner had them turned at 42k. I'm now at 68k and have just been informed I need the rotors to be turned, new pads, and repack the front bearings...(apparently no real damage yet, but "due for a brake job") I'm just wondering if I can get by with putting new pads on instead of the whole (costly) shabang. The shop wants $399 for the front and $230 for the rear. This seems really high to me, even for California.

Anyway, any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

You don't have to turn them if you are not getting any pulsing when you brake. But if you are doing a front bearing repack I would just have them put on new front rotors since they will be in that far anyway, plus I don't think new front rotors would cost much more then having the old ones turned???

 

[sk8rider]

Sounds good, I appreciate the info.

 

[LXPearl]

I do not turn my rotors when replacing pads unless they need it. If they warp or the pads have worn too far and scored the rotors, then I either replace or turn them. I use the Toyota OEM pads and have no problems.

Not all rotor turnings are equal. I got a Toyota that had worn pads and took the rotor to a shop for turning. While the lathe made the rotor straight, the finish was not very smooth, and within about 5K miles the new pads and rotor had scored again. I had Toyota resurface the rotor and it was smooth and another set of new pads wore very well. Unless machined well, I consider turning rotors a step toward compromised wear and performance.

Both of my 100s have had pads replaced but rotors were not turned and the brakes work smooth and great.

 

[jaab]

If you had them turned once, just replace them the next time. Unless they are warped or scratched, you can get away with just sanding them a bit.

If they are already warped replace them, turning them will just hide the problem for a short period of time.

I found a good price on rotors @ www.toyotaworld.com $76.26 per each front

hope this helps

 

[dnp]

Turn or no turn, you decide. While you're thinking, I'll sell you a set of very slightly used SP slotted rotors and corresponding SP performance pads for a 100....CHEAP!

 

[Jim_Chow]

I never turn rotors...it's a scam. As you say, they just get thinner and warp faster. If he insists on turning them, you'd be better off buying new rotors and doing it yourself. The key is to get quality rotors. I've tried third party Napa-types, which quickly warped within a year on my 86 with 20K mi, mostly highway. After that, I switched to slotted brembo's...still no warping 6 yrs and 75K mi later. For the LC, I'd either go w/ OEM, brembo's, or DBA's (anyone here use those and can compare to brembo's or OEM? Better? Worse?)