Tommy Dwyer
SILVER Star
@Markuson , what size spacers are you running since you dropped back down to 34’s?
Which size spacers? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DirtNap
- Start date
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Markuson
SILVER Star
I popped Spidertrax back on at 1.25” —which makes up for the inch lost in outer stance by dropping to an inch narrower tirer—by moving outward a 1/2 inch via 1.25” vs .75”.
This sets my tread outward, but still stays within the inner edge of my wheel wells. The geometry seems to work well as it feels extremely stable in turns...feels planted under full articulation...tracks straight...and handles perfectly at speed in the desert including high-speed turns in soft riverbed sand...so I am very happy with it.
And frankly...the stance looks balanced again similar to my removed 35’s. I just don’t have the extra inch of tread on the inside any more and that’s a good thing.
This shot (below) let’s you see they are still within the wheel wells...
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Tommy Dwyer
SILVER Star
Thanks. Running Spidertrax as well, currently with 33’s. Having in internal debate about going to 34’s with my next tires and was wondering how they’d fair......IF the 34 side of the debate wins. We shall see, thanks again, the truck (still) looks great
You need to trim studs. I have installed them on front wheels of my 16LC and that is what I had to do to make it work. Injured my hand int he process and had to stop the project. BTW have the .75 Bora listed in wheels section if anyone is interested. Definitely I am not good DIY person and decided that will learn to leave with inward wheels.
hoser
SILVER Star
^^^ depends on the wheel. Most OEM wheels have 'pockets' that can accommodate the excess length of the wheel studs.
True. Using 13-15 LX wheels and those do not have packets aligned correctly.
FWIW, 1.25 spidertrax with factory wheels on a 2013.
Markuson
SILVER Star
There was no issue with stud length using Rock Warrior wheels and .75” Bora spacers.
Just need wheels with appropriate voids where it sits against the hub.
Main only complaint with the Bora spacers was that the bolts/nuts provided RUST...and badly. If I ever run Boras again, I’ll only do it if they offer a stainless bolt/lugnut option. Maybe they do already...but the set that came with my Boras definitely weren’t They rusted so badly, I had a very difficult time removing them—even with an impact wrench.
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I remember with the Tundra wheels I run on my trailer there was an issue with the spacer studs hitting the wheel flange. I believe the Tundra has a solid cast face where your RW wheels have blockouts which provide space for the studs to extend?
Can you report in a month or so if you see any paint chips on inner fender painted areas? That was my fear and why I have tried thinner spacers as didn't want to have corrosion.
- Thread starter
- #34
To confirm, are you on the 285/75/17's (33.8" diam) listed in your sig? Thinking I might move that way as well as perhaps the best balance of diameter and width.
Why not just add Xpel protection there or similar? I have 1.25 spacers and have Xpel there, rocker panels, etc.
How is Xpel holding up there. I have Xpel on front which works great. The rock impact it is very severe in rocker panel. Any cuts in film?
No, but I haven't exactly been running through a rock quarry to date with my new LC.
I finally had someone compliment my new truck and recognize it as a LC and not a 4Runner yesterday. The dude working in the Chick-Fil-A drive through. Its a start!
