Which Oil Filter Would You Rather Use?(TRD/OEM) (1 Viewer)

gaijin

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Thanks for the info! I'm used to 5w-40 for my truck, so 5w-20 sounds light. Is that what you guys recommend?

I'll order up some TRD filters and a filter wrench--

I would strongly recommend 0W-20 full synthetic - just like it says in the manual:

LC200OilChangeSpecs_06FEB16_zps5lfjr7gt.jpg


As far as brand goes, the TGMO (Toyota Genuine Motor Oil) you can buy at your dealer is probably the best available. Not as cheap as Mobil 1, but worth it, IMHO.

Note that the Manual states that 5W-20 is for one-time emergency use only when 0W-20 is not available, and must be replaced with 0W-20 no later than the next oil change.

HTH
 
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Just brought this up with my long-time Service Advisor at Lexus today and he reiterated that 0-20w is the way to go due to the close tolerances in this engine. YMMV, but he's had my back on a couple of warranty claims, so I tend to be conservative on this.
 

bjowett

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Closer tolerances are a myth... there is no significant bearing clearance difference in any of the Toyota V8 engines dating all the way back to 1990 with introduction of the 4.0L 1UZ, it uses 5W30. The very expensive Yamaha tuned 2UR GSE 5.0L used in the Lexus IS-F specs a 5W30 or 10W30... same clearances as the 200 Series 3UR FE.
 

studawg

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From 08-11 they were recommending 5w-20. in 2013 they went to 0w-20 for gas mileage purposes to meet CAFE standards. In the book it says 0w-20 for increased mileage and better starting in cold weather. I don't know of any differences between the 3UR-FEs in the 08-11s and the 13+.
 
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What kind of oil Change interval are you guys following? When I purchased the vehicle, the service advisor stated every 10k miles...
 
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Just ordered 2 trd filters running Mobil gold cap now. Anyone runing royal purple ? My dads 12k mile flat tapper cam 1987 gn rattled when first start up . Switched to royal purple never heard the rattle agin during start up ? On my 87 gn the turbo usually gains 2 lbs of boost the first 500 miles after an oil change with rp. The Buick gods swear by Mobil 1
 

Taco2Cruiser

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I run Amsoil signature series 0-20 with their EA filter.

I've done oil analysis for the past couple decades and Amsoil (being a true synthetic unlike mobil1 and others because of a lawsuit that ruled companies can say they are synthetic if the amount of detergents and refining are high enough, even though it is from crude) and it is where it is at to not go into painful details.

For the guy above this post, royal purple doesn't generally produce good 4-ball wear results and I don't trust stuff that is dyed for marketing reasons.
 
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so does this mean that I can run every 10k miles on my 09? They changed to 10k in 13+ and in my manual its 5k. What would you do with synthetic 0-20? Also, if you could have Motul or Mobil1 for the same price, what would you go with?
 
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On my 87 gn the turbo usually gains 2 lbs of boost the first 500 miles after an oil change with rp. The Buick gods swear by Mobil 1
Just to keep things real here, there is no POSSIBLE way that engine oil could cause a change in boost pressure. Not. Possible.
 
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Thanks gaijin for the physical comparison run down. Interesting.

As for better, we as laymen without empiracal data, makes it all a crapshoot. It's fun to hypothesize, but we don't know for sure, other than to rely on TRDs reputation of making quality products. It may be better in some respects but worse in others.

Consider TRDs mission - to make performance products for your everyday car.

Performance can be interpreted in different ways. It might be that the TRD filters with less resistance at high engine speeds to minimize pumping losses and free up hp. But potentially it doesn't filter as efficiently, or for a long between oil changes as the standard Toyota filter. But this me hypothesizing too, as this filter media certainly has less pleats (hence surface area), but potentially the media has deeper features to expose more surface area within the media.

What I do know is that there is no way the stock media will collapse even in the harshest of uses, within their recommend change cycles. And that it will certainly guarantee me superb engine life commensurate with Toyota's reputation. I find no compelling reasons to deviate from this validated solution.

BTW, oil weights are another fun topic that I just shake my head at when people try to deviate from the manufacturers recommendation. Clearances may be the same, but oil weights are a designed in aspect of the larger engine system and application. It takes into consideration bearing surface areas, operating loads, heat loads, use cases, etc. There are very much specific engineering trade-offs and design decisions here. Again, following Toyota's guideline will assure me engine performance and longevity. Anything else is testing on my own dime.
 
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What is the green marker like stain on the TRD oil filter? Has anyone experienced this? I just got a new one sent to me from the Toyota dealership along with a OEM oil filter. The OEM filter looks fine, clean, no stains. The TRD has several spots of green like marker on it. Should I use this filter or get another one?
 

gaijin

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What is the green marker like stain on the TRD oil filter? Has anyone experienced this? I just got a new one sent to me from the Toyota dealership along with a OEM oil filter. The OEM filter looks fine, clean, no stains. The TRD has several spots of green like marker on it. Should I use this filter or get another one?

Can you post some pics?
 

gaijin

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bloc

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If it's easy to exchange that filter for another one from the dealer, I'd do that. If not, then I'd go ahead and use it - looks cosmetic to me, nothing that would do any harm.

HTH
Agreed.
 

Bryanseye

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