Which Engine?? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Aug 10, 2018
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350
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Bozeman, MT
My 5.7 SBC will lift the front tires of my 40. It's terrifying when it does. It'll run 85 mph on the interstate without losing speed on the mountain passes. It can pretty easily do 0 to 75 in an 1/8th mile, which is really handy because many of the roads around me have 70 mph speed limits. It gets 17 mpg driving to and from work. It is overpowered for the vehicle, but you don't have to use all the power all the time. If I were going to do an engine swap, I would put in a small V8 and it wouldn't have power adders. They just aren't needed. I'd spend a little money with a cam shop to get something with good drive-ability characteristics for on the road and low RPM torque for off roading. They're probably going to call that an RV cam. In my opinion, a 2F engine would need to be pretty well built and pretty well tuned to outperform a pretty basic V8 for the type of driving most people do. I've never owned a 2F, but I've driven a few, and (despite its' terrifying ability to lift the front tires off the ground) I'd never trade my 5.7 for one.
 
Joined
Jul 8, 2019
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19
Location
CA
What's really WRONG with the old F engine?
That's a good point. I don't know how to fully diagnosis it. I am going to school for mechanics and after this class, I plan on engines and rebuild classes.

What I do know is its running too rich. I need to replace the super stretched out throttle cable which I'm doing this week. Also replacing the fuel filter. It backfires occasionally and just started to stall when I let off the accelerator after driving a bit and backfires as doing that as well. Also goes into "limp mode" occasionally. From some research, it sounds like its mostly the carburetor and fuel filter that's causing all of this. Also after running for a bit when I turn it off the engine it still is turning over until I stop it by putting it in gear with the brake engaged and slowly let the clutch out to make contact and stop the turnover. It feels terrible.

The cooling system is also all being redone. I've been running flush/cleaner and distilled water for 20 miles and am supposed to for another 180. Then drain and I was going to do it again to clean as much out cooling part of the block. Then Drain and replace with new coolant, hoses, thermostat, clean the housing, and a new radiator.

As of now though I've decided to stop driving it until I replace the throttle cable, fuel filter, get the carb tuned, and replace the oil pan gasket that's leaking and old oil and filter for all new. Hopefully, this will solve most of the issues.
Then continue my radiator flushing journey and finally swap all the cooling components.

I would like to pull the heads and what not but like I said I have not gotten that far. I am gonna tackle these things first and then go from there.
 
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CA
This is one of those slippery slope topics that can go lot's of directions.

If and when I get to build my dream rig, it will be powered by a connect and cruise LS power-plant (or very similar)

If you don't want to go down a spendy path, but want decent reliable performance and keep things stockish, I would HIGHLY recommend going with the Holley Sniper 2300 Fuel Injection System. It will get you up and running, provides some good power from the stock motor, and wont take forever.
Ya, I keep going back to either rebuild or LS swap. I'll check out that fuel injection system!
 
Joined
Jul 8, 2019
Messages
19
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CA
The Toyota 5.7L is VERY VERY wide... 30" @ the heads. For reference, an LSx is ~24.5". Add in minimal aftermarket support, and it isn't something I'd consider doing without having deep pockets and resources. The thing it does have going for it is the light weight(a hair under 500lbs) No easy, USA factory available manual transmission is also a HUGE turn off for me(ie parts and tuning).

Back in the late 90s, I pulled out a low mileage rebuilt 2f in my 75 FJ40 and dropped in a 5.0L TBI. PLENTLY of engine to move the cruiser around with 35s and 4.11 gears. I wouldn't go out of my way to get the same engine unless it was free and even then I'd have second thoughts given that LSx engines are cheap enough to get.

10 years ago, I dropped a 6.0L LSx in my FJ55. VERY nice swap to do. LOADS of aftermarket swap support.(ie cheap) Easy to find one with low mileage. My 6.0L was 34k miles when I bought it.

~7 years ago, I dropped a turbo 5.3L LSx in my second FJ55. Still waiting for results as I'm working with a shop on/off for 'SEMA quality' results.

~3 months ago, I started down the 472 big block cady swap in a third FJ55. HUGE off idle power that is ~650lbs. It is an odd esoteric choice but it should fit the bill for towing and snow plowing application ;) For reference, an iron block LSx engine is 580lbs ;)

I think a cool swap for an FJ40 would be a Cadillac LF4; factory twin turbo 3.6L engine rated at 402hp/430ft-lbs in a nice ~350lb package that came with a manual tranny.
Thank you, this is all great info. Wheres a good place to purchase engines? I see new and used all over the place but have no idea who to trust.
 
Joined
Jul 8, 2019
Messages
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CA
Slippery slope indeed.

I would try a compression test first. That will tell you all you need to know. If compression is good, just clean it up and tune it up, and send the carb to Marks Offroad or JimC and have it rebuilt.
Next step could be Holly Sniper Fuel Injection.

As for swaps, I'd go the LS route. Cheap (in terms of engine swaps) it's been done a ton so no real gotchas and plenty of parts available.

The Toyota would require quite a lot of work and figuring things out on your own.

I had an FJ40 with a 350 and I put TBI fuel injection on it. It ran pretty dang good. It's all about what you want in your rig. I like the toyota engines, and I'm ok with LS swaps. Diesel is where it's at ;):rofl:
I do keep seeing a lot of Diesel but I am not so sure I want to run Diesel. I'll have to keep doing my research. There are so many back and forths with diesel. Its hard to make out the right pros and cons.
 
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CA
X10 on a compression test.

It sounds like a good idea to rebuild an F till you’re knee deep and discover F pistons have been NLA for many years.

I love my SBC. When my 1.5F died in ‘96, it was either part the truck or convert. I could but a very nice 40 for the $3500 to rebuild Uuthe F in ‘96. $2500 put a SBC in the rig with: new clutch, 120 A alternator, and exhaust.

To do it again today I’d pick up a good running 2F and be ahead $2K or swap in a diesel. A diesel swap wouldn’t be worth it now... it’d be 10 years before the fuel savings would cover the cost of the swap. For now I’m enjoying a 350 that’ll pull steady from 400 rpm, and still get decent MPGs. :D
Thank you for this knowledge. I am hoping the pistons are fine or just need some cleaning up and new rings and what not. Wont find out until I finish the first couple projects.
 

rkymtnflyfisher

Big Government Sucks
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Aug 29, 2011
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Montana
Start with the easy stuff.

Rebuilding the carb
Adjust the valves
Check timing
Check compression
Check vacuum

It’s a dinosaur, you can outsmart it.

No sense fixing something that’s not broken.
 

FJBen

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Apr 1, 2004
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Northern Colorado
I do keep seeing a lot of Diesel but I am not so sure I want to run Diesel. I'll have to keep doing my research. There are so many back and forths with diesel. Its hard to make out the right pros and cons.

I prefer driving diesels. That said unless I had a diesel or cheap access to one, I’m not sure I would do it. It will never “pay for itself” on mpg or longevity, maintenance.

Diesel swap only makes sense if you really just want diesel. Which is a pretty good reason 😁
 

Dizzy

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The dieseling, or pop the clutch to stop the motor, is usually a maladjustment on the carb. It can also result from glowing carbon in the combustion chamber. I had it on my '73, back in the day, and it was probably due to the idle cut solenoid not functioning. You are idling on the slow circuit, and not the idle circuit. Maybe it is because the carb solenoid isn't working, or the idle circuit is dirty, or the secondary is partly open (but not very likely for OEM carbs).
 
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Oct 24, 2016
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SW Missouri
I prefer driving diesels. That said unless I had a diesel or cheap access to one, I’m not sure I would do it. It will never “pay for itself” on mpg or longevity, maintenance.

Diesel swap only makes sense if you really just want diesel. Which is a pretty good reason 😁

I agree and spent a lot of money on my 6BT swap. I have no expectation of it paying off in terms of selling my 60 or in mpg. I was tired of the CA emissions causing it to be hard to start and chasing vacuum leaks and failing switches. And I had a solid 6BT in a truck that was falling apart.

The Toyota version of the stovebolt is a rugged and reliable engine that is limited in power with poor efficiency. My engine was fine - the emission controls were not.

Where I figure it can pay off is the vehicle I don't have to buy. My conversion was a lot cheaper than a new SUV and my FJ60 will keep running without a computer.
 

Lil'John

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Thank you, this is all great info. Wheres a good place to purchase engines? I see new and used all over the place but have no idea who to trust.

I don't know where you are. But all three of my engine swap engine purchases were along junkyard alley in Rancho Cordova ;)

The business I got my 5.0L TBI is no longer in business... Pick-n-pull took over the location.

The business I got my 6.0L vortec was called Rancho Recycling at 3486 Recycle Road. It was beyond painless. They showed me the truck it was pulled out of. The engine was complete and un modified(no cut harness, no cut exhaust, all accessories) They were also throwing in the cats, cross over pipe, AC radiator, regular radiator, airbox, etc. The engine had ~30k miles on it and if I recall right, had a 90 day warranty.

I forget who I got my 5.3L core from. I can't recommend them or not for engine swap motor.

I think the biggest challenge out of picking up a 'swap-ready' engine is ensuring things like:
  • Wiring harness is not cut.
  • All accessories on the engine
  • All injectors, coils, etc are there
In my experience, most junkyards cut the harness, don't have the PCM for the vehicle, pull all the accessories, as well as coils. In a lot of cases, they keep the engine and junk the chassis so you don't have a chance to see how it was wrecked(ie hidden engine damage) or possibly verify mileage claim.

There is NO way I would ever buy an EFI engine that wasn't complete for a swap... except in the case where I will be doing something completely custom on it(example: my turbo 5.3L engine)

When I bought my most recent 472 Cady engine, I bought it from a private individual. He showed me video of it running in his truck. The video is largely helpful to show running condition and any 'odd' noises'.
 
Joined
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SK Canada
an older carbed chevy 350 will be cheap to buy, easy to swap (relatively) and has more than enough power. if you don’t like carbs then swap on a throttle body injection like the holley sniper. it’s not too expensive and i love it on my 383 in my chevelle. it’s all easily done yourself. mileage won’t be as good as a diesel but better than a 2F. that’s what i’ll be doing for my next 40 if i can’t get my carb tuned right. it saves a lot of electronics that need to be sorted on the computer run modern v8s. but i’m not good with that stuff so that’s just my bias
 

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