What leaf springs?

[VinSil]

1 ton trucks with auto's had 4.56's...open rear. I wish I had x-military so I wouldn't have to get a detroit rear. Oh well, they are cheap.


I guess I could save the cash on the setup of the gears, we'll see how it turns out. From what I gather, you basically take the covers off the box and use some steel for more durability? Sounds good, I'll have to look into it.


I was told the tub is worth anywhere from $1200-2000 depending on who needed/wanted it. It does need a new driver side floorboard...ordered one from coolcruisers. It's otherwise rust free and straight as a arrow. Might be worth putting on ebay if I come across another deal on the cruiser....I just hate to have to start over, again.

 

[HI^C]

i did two of those trucks last yr both had 4.10s. looks like you lucked out.

covers come off, weld alum, these are alum covers, for durability and thread length.
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/ps-ram.php gives you a bit what i am talking about.

tub, you dont have to start over? you have i say at a good 3-4 months of just getting the frame rolling, mounts done, painted, reassembled etc... all depends on how much you can work on it. then you got lockers to add, traction bar, etc.... all these can be done without tub, and alot easier with no tub also.

 

[woody]

I skipped some reading...but anyways...

my rear 1/4 elliptical 4-link was $400. Springs, heims, mounts, rods. Add in good shocks and you are done. Not as cheap as used springs, but way more effective. Bilstein 5150's on the floor now, awaiting time to install.

I'd suggest using front Wagoneer 7-leaf HD springs all around for the SOA. JCWhitney is a good source for new, junkyards everywhere for used. FJ55/40 packs will be too light for the weight of the 60/14 bolt, IMO....mostly a concern on DROOP since the leaves are so thin versus US springs.

 

[cruiserrg]

You will want to run measurement #s on the Hummer rims and where you plan to run the springs. If you plan to use stock backspacing and using the stock spring location on the D60 front you may have tire rubbing issues preventing full lock to lock.

As far as springs, the desired WB and the frame dimentions will limit what you can run. There is only so much frame vrs extension of WB due to spring length. A longer spring may or may not extend your WB.

 

[VinSil]

Thanks for the link, very helpful.


For some reason, I never really thought of the 500 pound+ weight of the axles. You made a good point there. As for the 1/4 eliptical....would it be ok for street use? I've seen a few, but they seem to flex too much for driving on the street. Yeah, it will be a trailer queen, but I still want to be able to jump into town for small things or the next trail.


I know the stock frame is really limiting what I'm asking for/after. But, they are cheap...and makes things roll that much faster.


Thanks for help!

 

[woody]

For some reason, I never really thought of the 500 pound+ weight of the axles. You made a good point there. As for the 1/4 eliptical....would it be ok for street use? I've seen a few, but they seem to flex too much for driving on the street. Yeah, it will be a trailer queen, but I still want to be able to jump into town for small things or the next trail.

my rear 4-link handles WAY nicer on the street than it did with the SOA...cornering is much improved, ride is comparable, and offroad flex and control is great. (plus, no axle wrap for those stoplight drags...hehehe) Ranks up there as one of the best mods I've done to my rig.

 

[VinSil]

Have pictures of your setup? I'd be REALLY interested to see it!




Thanks!

 

[Mace]

If I ever see another person bitch out a newbie for wanting stronger axles I will go beat them up....




I HAVE a 14 bolt and D60. and I have less into them than I did in my cruiser axle..

They are stronger.
Parts are cheaper.
Where is the down side....

Links are NOT cheap if done correctly.

I have over $200 in link material alone.

And figure at least $30-$60 per end of the links for weld in bushings or heims.

link design is not all that small of an issue.


I vote the JC whitney springs if youare not going to do links..

And go 39.5's... they are NICE!!!

 

[VinSil]

Someone on my side of the fence!



39.5's! SWEEEET........

 

[woody]

Someone on my side of the fence!
..

don't get excited...it's a short fence, and Mace tripped...

 

[VinSil]

Hahahha.....I did ride the short bus to school...might as well be on the short end of the fence while I'm at it!!!!

 

[hammerhead]

Haven't been able to find any specs on the waggy springs mentioned. Anyone help?

 

[HI^C]

mace, i wasnt "bitchn" merely suggesting that the combination of the 36" tire on those axles would not be recommended by me, but would rather work well on the smaller axles.
i am all for bigger axles on bigger tires, and under cruisers, should read the whole 4340 axle thread for cruiser axles.

What link material you run? soild round carbon stock is $4-$10 a ft from about 1"-2" in dia, and that crap is plain ass massive. even at say 2" 20ft needed total your just at your $200. no need for all 4 links soild and 20ft is probably 4-5 ft too much. This material would be just about the same as most weld in bungs (strongly dislike most of these) and bore and tapping right into is not a problem. can you say beef, lots of weight, do you have to worry about bending/breaking them? not for eveyone or every rig, but used as a example here.

so much helpful link setup stuff on the web, just about anyone can play with these, ask others input, etc... to get a very good working suspension.

 

[HI^C]

eye to eye eye to pin F eye to pin R

53.625, 26.5, 31.5, off a bds lift spring. what exactly are you lookin for?

 

[hammerhead]

HI^C - Thanks. How wide are they?(Do they fit in the stock hangers, etc). SOA with stock springs and have about hammered them. Want to upgrade for more flex while replacing. Am welder fabricator so mods are NOT a problem. Was going to do spring flip or something. Have been thinking FJ55 springs but am curious about "waggy" springs. Am also open to any other suggestions.

Vin - sorry about the hi-jack. BTW, I got thrown off the little bus... hehehe

 

[VinSil]

No hy-jacking going on....we're still talking springs!

 

[cruiserrg]

No hy-jacking going on....we're still talking springs!

Well back to springs. Like I said above you are going to have hurdles to overcome in the front end using what you have speced out. I would run the d60/14b combo.

The way you explain it you will be running a stock width D60 front with stock Hummer rims. Using the D60 in stock form will require running the leaf springs in the stock locations (unless you machine the diff housing). Because of this to run leafs on a stock cruiser frame you will have to outboard the leaf springs to accomodate the axle.

Now considering that and the fact that Hummer rims have ~7" backspacing, you will have tire rubbing issues with the leafs. I don't know the break point on tire size that would clear and maybe 36s would clear, just be sure to measure twice

I would recommed running coils or better yet coilovers to clear everything if you are intent on running full width with hummer rims. There are other ways around it but all will cost $$. And I agree links aren't cheap, I have more $$ in my lowers than most in there whole setup, but I tend to overbuild.

Good luck.

 

[HI^C]

listed as a 2.5 wide spring, 1.5" spring eye. with worse case you buy chevy spring bushings and cut them to fit what width you need. I am unsure of the stock bushing width.

But these spring are over 13" longer then stock, so i dont think your going to hit stock hangers?

do i bit of searching on pirate, there is lots of threads over there, i do remember a gray or silver cruiser that runs XJ springs all the way around.

stuff that might work for you

chevy fronts minus springs 49"
chevy rear springs minus 52"
94 newer dodge rear minus springs 56"
***D SD rear or front minus 59r 56f
xj rear 52"
could play with 63" chevy rears.
useing leaf springs you can pull or add springs to achieve
height and rate wanted. junkyard makes this pretty cheap.

I just got done with a 85 runner running 8" chevy front leafs,
pulled a leaf and it was perfect. chevy drivetrain.

ran a 20x10 6" backspacing 14.50 wide 44" tall tire on runner above
with stock chevy spring placement, had to adjust just barely in from front
u joint bind.

 

[VinSil]

I'll keep the BS of the Humvee rims in mind when I start this. If the leaf's are gonna get rubbed...I might have to link it up. I don't want to end up cutting in the housing just to run leaf springs...what a waste. Thanks for the heads up on that....

 

[Mace]

I'll keep the BS of the Humvee rims in mind when I start this. If the leaf's are gonna get rubbed...I might have to link it up. I don't want to end up cutting in the housing just to run leaf springs...what a waste. Thanks for the heads up on that....

Well, since I am running hummer rims as well I'll chime in again.

Woody Bite me

recenter the hummer rims. That will give you wahtever backspacing you want and you will still have the double beadlock. If you are going to run leafs you will have to space the rims out quite a bit.

You can narrow the housing to use the stock cruiser spring width.


I am actually only 82" wide with my setup. My hummer rims have been recentered so I have a bit over 5.5" backspacing. Very nice and VERY stable. Espically with how low I am.

I also am running coilovers in the front and coils in the rear.

Stock hummer rims will also not clear the stock steering arms on the knuckles.

IT is a lot easier to narrow the 60 and run stock springs with moderate Bs rims than it is to keep it WIDE and narrow the axle with rim BS...