What grease for front spindle bearings?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

No, Toyota doesn’t sell just the ball joints. You must replace the complete upper and/or lower control arms if you insist on original. (I have used Toyota everywhere else but the hood and hatch struts.)

I went with 555 from @cruiseroutfit - Cruiser Outfitters/Teq. I see they are out of stock now though.

Others here have used these. I don’t think anyone’s reported big issues or put enough miles on to compare them with OEM expectations. (I had 205 on my truck when I replaced, noise had been coming for some time.)
thanks man. Just pinged Kurt. Hopefully he can get the in stock soon...
 
thanks man. Just pinged Kurt. Hopefully he can get the in stock soon...

A ton (literally) of 555, etc due from Japan early this week :cool: They should be shipping by Tuesday/Wednesday if all goes as planned.

Add to wishlist on CruiserTeq.com or better yet, call the parts sales team (801-563-1277) and place a phone backorder. Those will ship before new stock is added to site.
 
A ton (literally) of 555, etc due from Japan early this week :cool: They should be shipping by Tuesday/Wednesday if all goes as planned.

Add to wishlist on CruiserTeq.com or better yet, call the parts sales team (801-563-1277) and place a phone backorder. Those will ship before new stock is added to site.
Awesome!! I will call first thing tomorrow. Thanks!!
 
Awesome!! I will call first thing tomorrow. Thanks!!
Got my name on the backorder list for the kit - upper and lower! Now just need to line up a local shop to install. Getting some pretty high quotes...
 
Got my name on the backorder list for the kit - upper and lower! Now just need to line up a local shop to install. Getting some pretty high quotes...
I paid $427.50 for uppers and lowers on both sides with my supplied parts.

Local guy, 30+ years experience, everyone around here drives a truck and I've seen a few Land Cruisers there, he knew all about the pre-load, managed not to wreck my speed sensors beyond what I've already done. So ... worth it, to me.
 
I paid $427.50 for uppers and lowers on both sides with my supplied parts.

Local guy, 30+ years experience, everyone around here drives a truck and I've seen a few Land Cruisers there, he knew all about the pre-load, managed not to wreck my speed sensors beyond what I've already done. So ... worth it, to me.
Yeah same type of guy here, wants 550. Im not going to mess with it myself. Springs and Tbars ok, but not this or wheel bearings.
 
Yeah same type of guy here, wants 550. Im not going to mess with it myself. Springs and Tbars ok, but not this or wheel bearings.

This thread should probably be directed over here:


But before you go, if you don't have rust, this is an eminently do-able job. If you do try:

  • Rent the Powerbuilt 46 ball press kit from Advance Auto
  • Get a $10 fish scale somewhere for the pre-load set.
  • Be careful with the speed sensor - if I had to do it over, I would disconnect the harness and leave it in the wheel. I broke the housing trying to pry it out from the back. Don't try that!
  • Check out the videos especially in that thread above
I was quoted "about $340" in labor to do the lower control arms by a local Toyota dealer (they won't replace the ball joints alone). I don't think that included the uppers, because I mistakenly was "certain" it was the lower only. The full upper and lower control arms list for about $500 a piece at dealers - a cool $2k in parts at list.
 
Got my name on the backorder list for the kit - upper and lower! Now just need to line up a local shop to install. Getting some pretty high quotes...

If you placed an order, they shipped :cool:

Those on the call back list will get a call in the next few bus days.
 
I wanted to see if there are any updates in opinions since 2013 on if it's best to go with #1 grease inside the spindles and #2 in the wheel bearings, or if #2 can work for both? I have my steering knuckles and rotors all stripped down and cleaned up and ready to reassemble. I don't want to rush ahead with all #2 grease in the spindle bearings and bushings just because that's what I have on hand. Using one grease all around could simplify things and prevent mixing greases.
 
I take it that's a no. For anyone looking at this in the future, I found that Mobile 1 has a product called "Mobile Grease CM-W" that is a high performance NLGI 1 lithium based grease, like the FSM calls for on the spindle bushings. It is available on Amazon currently for $12 a tube, or I also found it at Grainger for $8 if you happen to have one near by. Definitely nothing useful at all at my local auto parts stores. I went with the Mobile Grease option.
 
I use THIS stuff also. price is good too. $10 right now on amazon. I even wrote a review on it a few years ago.

grease.jpg
 
Last edited:
Glad this thread popped up since I'm actually about to do a full service after I get done re-packing and installing my new front wheel bearings. Always fun pursuing mud and coming across timely posts.
 
Any recommendations on what to look for or avoid in a grease gun? Brands preferred? This is next up on my to do list!
 
Glad this thread popped up since I'm actually about to do a full service after I get done re-packing and installing my new front wheel bearings. Always fun pursuing mud and coming across timely posts.
If I see you at the cruiserhead meeting I can give you some grease. It doesn't take much for the spindle. Unless you want to push it though the front of the spindle of course, in which case a tube in the gun would be ideal.
 
Any recommendations on what to look for or avoid in a grease gun? Brands preferred? This is next up on my to do list!
There are many options out there. I'll tell you just based on my own experience, I'd stay away from super cheapo options. That said, there are many many reviews of happy people on Amazon for inexpensive grease guns so it's not a bad bet. I have a generic grease gun from the auto parts store and I want to drive over it in my car. I spent so much time battling air locks. I would get it all purged and it work for a few pumps and then air lock again. I was seriously frustrated. I gave up and bought this Alemite 500, and I LOVE it. I read a lot of reviews on a lot of grease guns and it really stood out in terms of quality for cost. It's not the cheapest but also far from the most expensive. I love this thing more than it's probably normal to love a grease gun. I will say the lever action takes 2 hands which is sometimes a pain. But it also pushes more per pump and can produce more pressure. You win and lose some. I read a number of reviews of people bending the pump handle on cheap single hand pump guns.

 
There are many options out there. I'll tell you just based on my own experience, I'd stay away from super cheapo options. That said, there are many many reviews of happy people on Amazon for inexpensive grease guns so it's not a bad bet. I have a generic grease gun from the auto parts store and I want to drive over it in my car. I spent so much time battling air locks. I would get it all purged and it work for a few pumps and then air lock again. I was seriously frustrated. I gave up and bought this Alemite 500, and I LOVE it. I read a lot of reviews on a lot of grease guns and it really stood out in terms of quality for cost. It's not the cheapest but also far from the most expensive. I love this thing more than it's probably normal to love a grease gun. I will say the lever action takes 2 hands which is sometimes a pain. But it also pushes more per pump and can produce more pressure. You win and lose some. I read a number of reviews of people bending the pump handle on cheap single hand pump guns.

This, when I bought my 100 I bought a cheap grease gun at my local parts store, what a POS. I bought a Lincoln 1134 grease gun and a Lincoln 5803 grease needle (I believe because that's what was recommended here on mud when I searched the forums for a grease gun in 2017).
 
Back
Top Bottom