What did you do on your 70 series today? (43 Viewers)

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I was particularly impressed with this Deutz stationary engine:
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Year of make: 1936
3 cylinders, 29.8L (1818 cubic inch) displacement.
Shifting camshaft to allow start by compressed air. (It comes with its own auxiliary engine, compressor and 2 air tanks for that)
Direct injection, 350bar (5000psi), 6mm nozzles. One injector has the size of a beer can. (Impressive for that age)
Total weight: 4 tons
Output: Only 100hp at about 500rpm. Torque: Not exactly known, but the cast flywheel alone is about 250kg (550lbs).
The engine powered the emergency generator at the Telephone headquarters back the day.
It is actually kind of brand new: Only 800h on it from test runs; never used in any longer action.

If interested in more videos from the steam engines, check my YouTube channel.
Cheers Ralf
 
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And now for the Landcruiser.
The blowby of my 1985 3B is really massive, and driving in the hills in 2H was no real fun. Several horses must have left the stable over the years.
The engine has 320 000km on it and apparently has never been opened: Still the composite head gasket on it, no wrenching signs on any bolt.
I'd like to have the engine back to a state I can trust it. So I'm debating myself to go for a rebuild. Budget permitting, as I don't have the ability, tools and space to do it myself.
Yes, I know: I should probably consider an engine swap rather than rebuilding an old 3B. But engine swaps come with legal implications in Germany, and it's the original engine to the vehicle. I honor and value that.
I would be fine with the 3B, if only it would be to be trusted and if I would not be scared to overload it when pressing the pedal to the ground.
Time to open a thread in the diesel section...
If you are interested, join me in the discussion here: 1985 3B engine rebuild due to blowby - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1985-3b-engine-rebuild-due-to-blowby.1314091/
Cheers Ralf
 
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Front axle oil seal fail CSI continued....

Pulled the vent from the top of the axle and I suspect the biggest factor in the bi-lateral fail of the oil seals was clogged vent causing alternating pressure/vacuum in the housing.

I'm thinking that verification/cleaning of axle/trans/etc vents should be done at least annually to reduce premature oil seal failures

Oil seals on each side showed the "spring" like structure in the seal had failed between 10 and 2 oclock on the seal on both sides which is roughly the section of the seal that is above oil....air compresses and expands, liquids not so much.

Here's picture of the vent that screws into the housing and that hole is a weeee tiny little hole.....its probably gonna get drilled out a bit and then reinstalled along with trail tailor vent kit....working on where to mount it.....
FAxleBreather.jpeg
 
Still trying to track brake line leak.
I looked between the master cylinder and brake booster.
No tell-tale signs of a leak there.
Also unpacked a new vacuum actuator for t-case.
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Caution: The following isn’t remotely tech. 😊
At our local RaceWay station today there was only a .02 difference between unleaded gas and diesel. ( $319.9 / $321.9)
I can’t remember if I’ve even seen the gap that small.
 
I am trying to make a sun visor card that is specific to my HZJ77 since the current one is in Japanese and probably doesn't really apply since it was originally power hub equipped. (Was converted to free wheel hub).

Between the various english version examples I see online and poor google translation of mine...here is what I came up with. I will probably end up revising it a bit more. I will also make a magnetic version to put on the glove box door as well. I don't really see a reproduction online I like so far or I would just buy one.

View attachment 3334678 View attachment 3334679

Hello,

Good work.

In L4, you should add AT LOW VEHICLE SPEEDS.

This is a card from my 73 Series, which happens to have the H4 button. I think you might find it useful for reference.

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Juan
 
Caution: The following isn’t remotely tech. 😊
At our local RaceWay station today there was only a .02 difference between unleaded gas and diesel. ( $319.9 / $321.9)
I can’t remember if I’ve even seen the gap that small.

FYI While I was in Batesville MS this morning, they have even better. $3.01 for diesel and $3.05 for unleaded
Regrettably, I had just filled up Oxford so I passed this opportunity up

I know I will be stopping there Sunday for a fill up.
 
Hello,

Good work.

In L4, you should add AT LOW VEHICLE SPEEDS.

This is a card from my 73 Series, which happens to have the H4 button. I think you might find it useful for reference.

View attachment 3337291
Juan
I tried to find the best English version as a guide and yours is the best one I have seen. Thank you.

I wish I could just buy one like yours.

I will revise mine some more to reflect yours but here is what I have so far.

146F14FF-6BC8-426E-ADEF-BFDEC524FAF9.jpeg
 
Hello,

There is a part number for the English language card, but it is not available to order, at least not from the local parts guy. Ask me how I know.

If you end up making these cards, I would be interested in a pair.





Juan
 
Hey Folks,

I’m in the process of replacing my FCR on my BJ73. I’m wondering if anyone knows what size electrical pins these are. There are about 8 million different types of pins. I could cut the old ones off and splice them to the new wires, but I’d like to keep things clean.
2E85EFF2-7312-4114-A149-CD95A7ACFCA7.jpeg
 
Last year, I had installed new chrome OEM electric mirrors. Opinions may vary here but I think the chrome electric ones vibrate too much in comparison to the manual OEM black ones no matter what you do to try to remedy the situation. Again this is all OEM stuff too, not aftermarket.

I just decided to delete the chrome OEM mirrors and go with some new OEM black mirrors. I also removed the mirror control switch and installed a blank plate in the dash to make it all proper. The stuff I took off went into a box and can all easily go back on if necessary. The OEM black ones look better too IMHO and no annoying vibration.

bmirror4.jpg
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bmirror1.jpg
 
Last year, I had installed new chrome OEM electric mirrors. Opinions may vary here but I think the chrome electric ones vibrate too much in comparison to the manual OEM black ones no matter what you do to try to remedy the situation. Again this is all OEM stuff too, not aftermarket.

I just decided to delete the chrome OEM mirrors and go with some new OEM black mirrors. I also removed the mirror control switch and installed a blank plate in the dash to make it all proper. The stuff I took off went into a box and can all easily go back on if necessary. The OEM black ones look better too IMHO and no annoying vibration.

View attachment 3337508 View attachment 3337509 View attachment 3337510 View attachment 3337511
Need a better shot of that radio. 😁
 
Do the manual mirrors have that "snap back into position" feature?
 
Hello,

Good work.

In L4, you should add AT LOW VEHICLE SPEEDS.

This is a card from my 73 Series, which happens to have the H4 button. I think you might find it useful for reference.

View attachment 3337291


Juan

@JuanJ Thanks again for your pictured example. I used your photo to create as close to original duplication using Toyota font I have access to.

decal font.JPG


I made one as a decal and another as a magnet using left over magnet sheet I had. I put the decal one (didn't use it as a sticker) into the sun visor and the magnetic one onto the glove box door. Maybe the grey could have been a bit darker. The font spacing on your original example is all weird but I tried to duplicate that as well.

LABEL5.JPG


LABEL4.jpg
LABEL3.jpg


LABEL2.jpg
LABEL1.jpg
 

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