Interesting if had a IHZ engine when imported? Imports are suppose to have the original engine. Did they install an H55F with a 40 series top plate? If not no factory mate from a 40 series will match the transmission shifter opening. Transfer case would questionable it would match. 40 series with a H55F the transfer case shifter is a little further back than the four speed. Possible to use some later 70 series transfer shifter to get to the four speed location. If it has a 60/70 series top cover the transfer will probably be further back since the transmission shifter is further back than the 40 series shifter.
It definitely was 1hz when it came to the ConUS. There are posts here when the original was converted to it. Goes back to 2013 . He documented the work. Well, at least his part . The original importer and I have spoken as well .
I don't know when it got it's bed , as it seems the bed was added in Oz but also heard that it had a tray prior to import. .
As you probably know , the drive shafts had to be extended and shortened to move things a bit.
It has the drive line from the conversion minus the front axle which stayed. . Basically.
I have the 5 sp. The split tcase , full floated rear axle.
My diesel pump is one without the HAC or anything . Just the screw. But he did add the turbo ct 26 plus ,
He used the factory OZ spec gas radiator which seems to keep up ..
It Was originally 12 v for most systems , so the accessories work out OK.
As you know, the starting system and charging is usually a challenge . It has the gear reduction starter and a 50 amp alternator. Or well the 50 amp shunt , probably 80 amp alternator.
The factory air Conn has never been finished. I have the stuff to finish now but wanted to drive the thing .
I had to rebuild the rear axle as the driveshaft was out of round. I doubt the thing had any miles on it since 2013.
The fan was not cut well and was whittling the coolant hose and so when I got it on the road it cut through the hose. .
The driveshaft buggered up the rear end and pinion seals. .
I rebuilt that and had a new shaft cut . I couldn't find the right flange for the 1330 or 1350 joints to Toyota on the other part so it's all 1330 . I was stacked deep in authentic Toyota ujoint bearings ..
I will eventually get a spare going for front and rear. Shafts.
The clutch hydraulics were nasty . I cleaned it up and was able to save all the rubber .. once I put new fluids in after the cleaning and wipe downs it stopped spitting rust into my feet .. lol
The brakes are 4 wheel disk. With a good valving. It stops better than my new 4 runner ..
All in all , it's a joy to drive and seems to have front and rear lockers in it , which was also documented but until I got in there for the rebuild I never believe everything.
It does have a exhaust manifold leak at the split and should eventually need a new head. . This head is not coming off without a cutoff wheel. The studs are one giant rust bolt. I wanted to fix the manifold and change out the pre cups but I can't .
I am saving my milk money for a new head and will probably go to Ben for it. He has helped me with advise .
While it's down that far , I might as well redo the high pressure pump too. While that's off , I need to do the flow plus and injectors. . When that is being done I might as well do the lines to injectors .
So the milk money will need to be substantial and not just for the head.
