what alternator? bj40

[void]

G'day all

hello from Australia im new here and its a very impressive site. i have spent most of the morning trawling through the posts trying to find relevent info.

I have a 40/42 and im not sure what it is. all the info of vin and that says that its a 42 but then it doesnt have p/s and the dash isnt that modern, doesnt have the clock and it has a engine stop pull leaver in the middle of the dash.

tho finding out what model the car is does not bother me atm.
so a few weeks back my rear main seal shat its self and i took it in to be replaced as well as a new clutch and a few other new bits. 2000 bucks later it comes out of the shop with a shagged alternator, clutch master cylinder and a new oil leak.

so being a bit annoyed with that and being an extreamly poor student have managed to talk my dad into helping me fix the problems (having no mechanical skills between us and a shop manuel we should be good ) But trying to find a new alternator to get on is not the easiest.

from what i can see its a nippondenso alternator/vac pump thing and some of the numbers i could get off it are

100210-1410
27030-56023
021000-733

now i dont have the foggiest what they really mean but is there any one out there that can say this is what you need. go get it and bolt it on.

thanks alot guys for any help

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Welcome to the addiction.

Why are there no pictures? The cruiser gods demand pictures!!!

First off, I might suggest moving this to the diesel/24 Volt section. The diesels are the only trucks with alternators that have a vacuum pump built into them, so very few guys here will be familiar with them.

That said...

Have you pulled it off and taken it to an alternator shop? They are generally not hard to rebuild, and probably just need some new brushes. Any alternator shop should be able to do that pretty easily, for a lot less than buying a new one.

You said you were a poor student, so that's what I would try first.

27030-56023 looks like a Toyota part number to me, so that's where I'd start if you are set on buying a whole new one.

Dan

G'day all

hello from Australia im new here and its a very impressive site. i have spent most of the morning trawling through the posts trying to find relevent info.

I have a 40/42 and im not sure what it is. all the info of vin and that says that its a 42 but then it doesnt have p/s and the dash isnt that modern, doesnt have the clock and it has a engine stop pull leaver in the middle of the dash.

tho finding out what model the car is does not bother me atm.
so a few weeks back my rear main seal shat its self and i took it in to be replaced as well as a new clutch and a few other new bits. 2000 bucks later it comes out of the shop with a shagged alternator, clutch master cylinder and a new oil leak.

so being a bit annoyed with that and being an extreamly poor student have managed to talk my dad into helping me fix the problems (having no mechanical skills between us and a shop manuel we should be good ) But trying to find a new alternator to get on is not the easiest.

from what i can see its a nippondenso alternator/vac pump thing and some of the numbers i could get off it are

100210-1410
27030-56023
021000-733

now i dont have the foggiest what they really mean but is there any one out there that can say this is what you need. go get it and bolt it on.

thanks alot guys for any help

 

[Mudguts]

take it off mate and take it to a auto electrician sneekily ask 1 of the young poor apprentices to do it for cash on the side after work , just dont let the boss catch ya lol
there expensive to buy new even here in oztralia so thats ya best bet

 

[lostmarbles]

....I have a 40/42 and im not sure what it is. all the info of vin and that says that its a 42 but then it doesnt have p/s and the dash isnt that modern, doesnt have the clock and it has a engine stop pull leaver in the middle of the dash....tho finding out what model the car is does not bother me atm....[

Post some pictures (when you can). I'm sure you really do want to know what you have there.

That alternator is too old for a BJ42.

Do you have "B" or "3B" cast into the LH-side of your block behind your EDIC motor?

B suggests a BJ40 whereas 3B suggests a BJ42 (although it could have had an engine transplant of course).

...so a few weeks back my rear main seal shat its self and i took it in to be replaced as well as a new clutch and a few other new bits. 2000 bucks later it comes out of the shop with a shagged alternator, clutch master cylinder and a new oil leak....

If you're not doing the work on your cruiser yourself you'll need a hefty bank balance AND access to an "old-diesel-cruiser guru".

(It is usually preferrable to learn how to do things yourself.)

..But trying to find a new alternator to get on is not the easiest. ....from what i can see its a nippondenso alternator/vac pump thing and some of the numbers i could get off it are
100210-1410
27030-56023
021000-733
now i dont have the foggiest what they really mean but is there any one out there that can say this is what you need. go get it and bolt it on...

That's the same 35 amp alternator I have on my 1979 BJ40

...The cruiser gods demand pictures!!!
suggest moving this to the diesel/24 Volt section
Have you pulled it off and taken it to an alternator shop? They are generally not hard to rebuild, and probably just need some new brushes. Any alternator shop should be able to do that pretty easily, for a lot less than buying a new one...

x 2 to all of this

..27030-56023 looks like a Toyota part number to me, so that's where I'd start if you are set on buying a whole new one.
Dan

Toyota won't be able to help. They won't stock anything for it except perhaps brushes. And you're better getting those elsewhere.

Front bearing: 6304 2RS (Rear is an oil-lubricated bush which should be OK.)

Brushes: 8x5x16long with 30mm tails - Distributed by "Parts Factory 172 Crockford St Northgate QLD 4013" Part number 22-73050 ("Revolution" brand - and should be obtainable through REPCO.)

take it off mate and take it to a auto electrician sneekily ask 1 of the young poor apprentices to do it for cash on the side after work , just dont let the boss catch ya lol
there expensive to buy new even here in oztralia so thats ya best bet

Good advice (if you can't do it yourself).



PS. Are you sure the alternator itself is the cause of the problem .. and not the voltage regulator ..for example?

 

[Dieseler]

Just pull out the brush assembly if they look like this install some new ones easy to do just need a soldering iron

If they look like the top one time to replace....bottom one is new

 

[void]

thanks for all your help. i fixed the alternator, it was just full of crap so i cleaned it and it seems to be doing the job. clutch master cylinder is put in and now to get the slave cylinder replaced. but for the moment its driveable my babys back on the road. i still need to get some pics of the dash but i might make a new post for that.

thanks for all the help

 

[dirtbandit]

remove alternator drive pulley

• dirtbandit
• Dec 28, 2015

Replacing Alternator Brushes on BJ40 (pt. 1)

More information on this thread I thought might be useful - I have exactly the same model of alternator on my '78 BJ40, and after performing much the same diagnostics ended up pulling the alternator apart to find brushes worn out (same as picture previously shared by Dieseler)

The awkward thing about this particular alternator, and seemingly unavailable in widespread internet search, is that it is necessary to pull the whole alternator mechanism apart in order to access (and replace) the worn brushes. You'll firstly need to remove the vacuum pump assembly at the rear of the alternator, then remove the drive pulley. Whilst the pulley is secured to the tapered armature shaft, it's likely to be very tight and you will require a gear puller



Then you'll need to remove the locknut (which pulls the armature shaft hard up against the sealed bearing). This will require you to secure the armature shaft by some means - ideally a splined boss which suits the internal gear of the vacuum pump in a bench vice, but since this will be almost impossible to find in the average mudder's shed, I recommend use of some thick copper or aluminium vice jaws (I flattened some old 3/4" copper pipe I had lying around). Use a 32mm Ring/Open End spanner to loosen the (LEFT HAND!) locknut... at this point, the alternator windings are simply hanging free under the top half of the alternator housing, so be careful not to damage them



The armature can now be removed from the alternator - should just require a firm tap with soft-faced hammer



Now you will be able to see the brushes and the extent of their wear. Carefully move the (still attached) alternator windings to once side, and remove the two screws which retain the plastic casing (which houses the brushes)



A soldering iron will be needed to remove the worn brushes and springs. Use a 'solder-sucker' to remove excess solder around the joint (you'll need a clean hole to feed the wires from the replacement brushes)

 

[dirtbandit]

Replacing Alternator Brushes on BJ40 (pt. 2)

Picture below shows my worn alternator brushes alongside their replacement component (Bosh GB710 - part number: 9121064313-4BR readily available from Australian parts vendor 'AutoPro') for about AUD $5



Attaching a thin piece of cotton thread to the tails of the replacement brushes will allow you to more easily feed the tails through the hole in the plastic casing (remember to reinstall the springs). Leave a good portion of the replacement brushes protruding from the casing (approx. 10mm?) and re-solder the tails to the joints on the back side of the casing. Chop the excess tails off and (obviously) ensure they not short-circuited (see pic. below)



Take this opportunity to clean out the inside of the alternator housing, and to fix any poor wiring which is also evident - as was the case in my situation)

Now, prior to re-fixing the plastic brush casing into the alternator housing, it is important to compress the brushes into the plastic casing as much as possible, and hold them in place by tying a loop of nylon around the plastic casing. If you don't do this, you'll find it almost impossible to replace the armature into the assembly without breaking the brushes! (which are VERY brittle)... leave a good length of nylon spare, and feed this through one of the narrow openings in the alternator casing. Once the armature has been replaced, a good sharp tug on this nylon thread should be sufficient to remove, and allow your alternator brushes to make contact with the armature




At this point, you should check the condition of the sealed bearing at the pulley-end of the alternator and replace if you identify anything less than perfect condition (e.g. stiffness or 'grittiness' when rotating the inner race).... you don't want to be pulling the alternator apart again in 6 months to replace a stuffed bearing!

reassembly of the alternator is reasonably straight-forward from here, and is basically a reverse execution of the above instructions. Care should be taken to ensure no connections are short-circuited, or wiring damaged during the process.

 

[Matt1260]

I just rebuilt my BJ40 alternator, replaced the brushes and made sure it was set exactly as the pictures posted and I'm getting a ground short from the green wire. My multimeter is showing continuity between the alternator body and both the B/Y and W/G wires. The W/G is shorting out and blowing the fuse. Is there supposed to be continuity between the field wire and the alternator body?

 

[lanbase]

I just rebuilt my BJ40 alternator, replaced the brushes and made sure it was set exactly as the pictures posted and I'm getting a ground short from the green wire. My multimeter is showing continuity between the alternator body and both the B/Y and W/G wires. The W/G is shorting out and blowing the fuse. Is there supposed to be continuity between the field wire and the alternator body?

To late, and a dead thread, but like our cruisers some get revived.

Anyhow following exactly the pictures above will render you with a shortened alternator, in the picture the black white E wire should be "turned" 90 degrees to the left, because picture shows it touching the field wire armature which is/was your problem and could be for others in the future following this post.

i will try to post a right picture later today during assembly of my alternator, apart from this picture, great stuff by Dirtbandid.