Well I guess its a project now

[War Rig]

Hey all,

Making this thread to share in the adventures (and misadventures) of this 98 LC 100. I should have started this awhile back, but I was having too much fun working on it and forgot to document all the cool stuff I did!

A few months ago I bought The Rig, aka Therig Truckinson, aka The Bringer of Doom and Wrecker of Lives, Wallets, and Marriage. The intent was to have something to take down access roads when I retire home to the great state of Maine, and in the meantime something to take wherever I like here on the island of Oahu.

Well, after replacing a brake line, vacuum hoses, plugs and coils, and the radiator, as well as doing the usual fluid base lining, it's been a relatively reliable old girl for being 25 years old with over 200k miles.

Then, I took it on its first off road foray. We went on an adventure!

Honestly it wasnt exactly a crazy challenge. 2 miles of road that any lifted truck would find easy enough. But it was a perfect test for an access road vehicle. I noticed some clunking as I drove out there (only when under power, not when moving in neutral, even over some rough parts- leading me to believe it was CV or driveshaft), and once I was off the trail and back on tarmac, I noticed a vibration over 30mph. Got home, re-greased the driveshafts and spiders because why not- still have the clunking so I did some video triage. Seems the inner CV is the cause of all the commotion- the outers were tight as the proverbial tiger, but the inner drivers side had some significant play. I swapped out CV axles on my old lifted subaru, but never on a rig this size, so I'm "looking forward" to getting this fixed.

Been perusing the CV axle thread to prep. Any pro tips will be welcome!

 

[Mike NXP]

Hey all,

Making this thread to share in the adventures (and misadventures) of this 98 LC 100. I should have started this awhile back, but I was having too much fun working on it and forgot to document all the cool stuff I did!

A few months ago I bought The Rig, aka Therig Truckinson, aka The Bringer of Doom and Wrecker of Lives, Wallets, and Marriage. The intent was to have something to take down access roads when I retire home to the great state of Maine, and in the meantime something to take wherever I like here on the island of Oahu.

Well, after replacing a brake line, vacuum hoses, plugs and coils, and the radiator, as well as doing the usual fluid base lining, it's been a relatively reliable old girl for being 25 years old with over 200k miles.

Then, I took it on its first off road foray. We went on an adventure!

View attachment 3373002

Honestly it wasnt exactly a crazy challenge. 2 miles of road that any lifted truck would find easy enough. But it was a perfect test for an access road vehicle. I noticed some clunking as I drove out there (only when under power, not when moving in neutral, even over some rough parts- leading me to believe it was CV or driveshaft), and once I was off the trail and back on tarmac, I noticed a vibration over 30mph. Got home, re-greased the driveshafts and spiders because why not- still have the clunking so I did some video triage. Seems the inner CV is the cause of all the commotion- the outers were tight as the proverbial tiger, but the inner drivers side had some significant play. I swapped out CV axles on my old lifted subaru, but never on a rig this size, so I'm "looking forward" to getting this fixed.

Been perusing the CV axle thread to prep. Any pro tips will be welcome!

Looks awesome man, sounds like you narrowed down and diagnoses your clunk quite nicely. The 100 series will be the perfect rig for Maine , just try to keep all that road salt / chemical cleaned off in the winter.

Get those CVs and hub flanges replaced. You may want to consider the varying size C clip kit that @cruiseroutfit sells. Maybe a new dust cap as well and any other little parts while you're diving in.

 

[TexLexican]

If you end up taking out the CVs and replacing the left and right diff seal, they are different part numbers. I have an extra one for free if you want it.

Edit: I see you’re in Hawaii. Shipping would me more than the seal

 

[T4R2TLC]

Enjoy the rust free undercarriage and scratch free paint before you retire and come to Maine—they won't last long!

Have loved seeing your posts in other threads and looking forward to your updates in this one. Hopefully I'll see you around in this neck of the woods soon.

 

[War Rig]

If you end up taking out the CVs and replacing the left and right diff seal, they are different part numbers. I have an extra one for free if you want it.

Edit: I see you’re in Hawaii. Shipping would me more than the seal

I appreciate the tip, and the thought. That's island life! Thanks though!

 

[War Rig]

Enjoy the rust free undercarriage and scratch free paint before you retire and come to Maine—they won't last long!

Have loved seeing your posts in other threads and looking forward to your updates in this one. Hopefully I'll see you around in this neck of the woods soon.

Haha, the paint is in great condition, but living this close to the ocean means the undercarriage isnt exactly rust-free. Here's hoping they let me retire and go home someday!

 

[War Rig]

Well, I THOUGHT I was going to head down to the dealership today and pick up an OEM CV. Then I figured I ought to look up how they're island-pricing it...

So I decided to order the Cardone HD version from Amazon instead. At 1/10 the price, if it only lasts a year it'll be worth it. That said, I've heard good thing about these particular aftermarket CVs, especially the HD version.

So now I get to wait a week (island life), but hopefully next weekend I should be back on the roll!

 

[War Rig]

Got impatient and snagged a CV at O'Reilly. I'll just deal with changing it out again in a year or so.

Also- and I mean this from the bottom of my heart: **** CONE WASHERS.

Got 4 off after trying literally everything on here as well as other Toyota sites. What worked was using a small screwdriver and pounding it into the gap. Except I snapped the tip in two of them. Now I'm ready to scream, but that's what breaks are for.

...Edit: Took a break and went back at it. Still not sure what to do about those last two cone washers. I have literally tried everything- heat, 8lb sledge with a brass drift on the flange and on the studs; I dont know anymore. Maybe tomorrow after work I'll get lucky. Definitely wouldn't mind some advice- nuclear option welcome.

 

[4LoforSno]

I too have watched your threads from the get...good stuff. did not realize you are a real maine -iac (aka: Main- uh) good on ya. I have family ties in maine and even into ST Stephen Canada eh?
I didn't have any play to speak of on my CVs but did a preventative repack and reboot to OEMs, dirty job, but have decided that its the right thing to do, and i enjoyed getting a good look at the inside of that cro -moly beast...worth it.
And, I also wrestled with the cone washers, but stuck with the service manual recommended "hammering on the studs", eventually they all came loose...

 

[MechE30]

For the cone washer stud you can put a double nut onto the threaded section and screw it out of the hub.
Should take about 1min and zero cursing.

 

[Malleus]

Got impatient and snagged a CV at O'Reilly. I'll just deal with changing it out again in a year or so.

Also- and I mean this from the bottom of my heart: f*** CONE WASHERS.

Got 4 off after trying literally everything on here as well as other Toyota sites. What worked was using a small screwdriver and pounding it into the gap. Except I snapped the tip in two of them. Now I'm ready to scream, but that's what breaks are for.

View attachment 3375630

...Edit: Took a break and went back at it. Still not sure what to do about those last two cone washers. I have literally tried everything- heat, 8lb sledge with a brass drift on the flange and on the studs; I dont know anymore. Maybe tomorrow after work I'll get lucky. Definitely wouldn't mind some advice- nuclear option welcome.

Vibration loosens the cone washers, not impact force. I can get mine out using a 10oz ball peen hammer and a brass round, when I can't get it close enough to my air hose to use the air chisel. Just bounce the brass on the end of the stud, or the side of the hub; it'll pop off.

FWIW, it has never occurred to me to unscrew the stud. I wonder why.

 

[War Rig]

For the cone washer stud you can put a double nut onto the threaded section and screw it out of the hub.
Should take about 1min and zero cursing.

Thank you! This is exactly the "nuclear option" I was hoping for! For real, these washers were NOT moving for anything, and I was no longer worried about damaging anything that could be replaced, I just wanted them out!

 

[SteveH]

Cone washers know when you're pissed, and resist coming off all the more. Know this.

I have been removing them since 1990 on various Toyotas. Get a brass hammer and gently tap (for up to 5 minutes) on the ends of the studs (and maybe occasionally on the side of the flange) and rattle them loose. They will always come out, but sometimes a few will take longer. After the first one goes, the rest come easier.

Double-nutting and removing the stud is a great idea as a backup method.

RE: CV shafts:

My driver's side CV was from Carquest and lasted 20K miles. The previous ones lasted 40K miles. Boots are fine, but the joint has play and bangs (the joint itself) when you shift into reverse. I put an HD Cardone on the pass. side a few thousand miles ago, and will buy another one for the driver's side now ($114 from Rock Auto, delivered). We'll see if they last 20K miles. Sadly, my OEM ones are long gone.

 

[War Rig]

Cone washers know when you're pissed, and resist coming off all the more. Know this.

I have been removing them since 1990 on various Toyotas. Get a brass hammer and gently tap (for up to 5 minutes) on the ends of the studs (and maybe occasionally on the side of the flange) and rattle them loose. They will always come out, but sometimes a few will take longer. After the first one goes, the rest come easier.

Double-nutting and removing the stud is a great idea as a backup method.

RE: CV shafts:

My driver's side CV was from Carquest and lasted 20K miles. The previous ones lasted 40K miles. Boots are fine, but the joint has play and bangs (the joint itself) when you shift into reverse. I put an HD Cardone on the pass. side a few thousand miles ago, and will buy another one for the driver's side now ($114 from Rock Auto, delivered). We'll see if they last 20K miles. Sadly, my OEM ones are long gone.

Welp! Tried double-nutting to back out the studs but I ended up warping the threads before getting any real purchase so I quit before doing any serious damage. Went to the hardware store and grabbed a ton of stuff thinking to pound the screwdriver remains the rest of the way in. That worked for one, but the last wouldn't budge.

Totally frustrated I just took the new 4lb Hammer I'd bought and hit the end of the stud a few times with my brass drift... popped right out. Moral of the story- 10oz and 24oz hammers are not big enough.

Now to find the proper size socket for the hub nut. Searching gave me 2 1/8 or 54mm. I tried 2 3/8 thinking I'd have to shim it to make it work, but 2 3/8 was too small...


I guess that's a tomorrow problem. If this takes long enough I may as well wait for the Cardone HD axle to arrive. I just hate putting miles on my 98k mi RX-8 if I dont have to.

 

[Malleus]

I can guarantee a 10oz ball peen and 5/8" brass round will work. It's all about the rhythm. I make my son rap on his hubs when he works on them, until he gives up. Then I tap the cones out and watch him hate me The air chisel works the same, just in seconds rather than minutes. Light pressure on the trigger, tap, tap tap on the stud and they're off.

The hub nut is 55mm. I just measured my socket. According to all the nuts I've removed in the past, any size cold chisel also fits well.

 

[War Rig]

I can guarantee a 10oz ball peen and 5/8" brass round will work. It's all about the rhythm. I make my son rap on his hubs when he works on them, until he gives up. Then I tap the cones out and watch him hate me The air chisel works the same, just in seconds rather than minutes. Light pressure on the trigger, tap, tap tap on the stud and they're off.

The hub nut is 55mm. I just measured my socket. According to all the nuts I've removed in the past, any size cold chisel also fits well.

I am now convinced, with your username and that story combined, that you are some kind of avatar of an ancient hammer god and there is nothing you can say from here on that will convince me otherwise.

 

[War Rig]

Yet another bonus of island life. No Sears. No Harbor Freight. I've hit every Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and O'Reilly on island- no luck on a 54/55mm or 2 1/8 hex socket. Now to try Home Depot/Lowes. And if that doesnt work I guess Amazon and wait...

 

[superdawg]

Got impatient and snagged a CV at O'Reilly. I'll just deal with changing it out again in a year or so.

Also- and I mean this from the bottom of my heart: f*** CONE WASHERS.

Got 4 off after trying literally everything on here as well as other Toyota sites. What worked was using a small screwdriver and pounding it into the gap. Except I snapped the tip in two of them. Now I'm ready to scream, but that's what breaks are for.

View attachment 3375630

...Edit: Took a break and went back at it. Still not sure what to do about those last two cone washers. I have literally tried everything- heat, 8lb sledge with a brass drift on the flange and on the studs; I dont know anymore. Maybe tomorrow after work I'll get lucky. Definitely wouldn't mind some advice- nuclear option welcome.

Yet another bonus of island life. No Sears. No Harbor Freight. I've hit every Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and O'Reilly on island- no luck on a 54/55mm or 2 1/8 hex socket. Now to try Home Depot/Lowes. And if that doesnt work I guess Amazon and wait...

Just a suggestion. Keep your OEM axles and order a CV axle rebuild kit. My son lives in Oahu and has a Tacoma. We bought the rebuild kit and had Starkey's Auto Repair in Honolulu rebuild them. They looked at him like he was crazy (most shops replace, not rebuild) but they did it and charged a pretty penny to do it. Had to go back twice to fix leaky boots but he kept the OEM axles. Or, rebuild your own axles and save big money. This truck is coming back to the mainland maybe next year and I hear bad things about aftermarket CV axles.

 

[War Rig]

Just a suggestion. Keep your OEM axles and order a CV axle rebuild kit. My son lives in Oahu and has a Tacoma. We bought the rebuild kit and had Starkey's Auto Repair in Honolulu rebuild them. They looked at him like he was crazy (most shops replace, not rebuild) but they did it and charged a pretty penny to do it. Had to go back twice to fix leaky boots but he kept the OEM axles. Or, rebuild your own axles and save big money. This truck is coming back to the mainland maybe next year and I hear bad things about aftermarket CV axles.

That's a baller suggestion! I'm definitely going the Cardone HD route, because it arrives tomorrow and this job has already taken long enough I can wait another day. That said, instead of trashing my OEM I may as well rebuild it myself and then when/if this one goes, the OEM rebuilt can go back in!

Gonna return the O'Reilly CV, because if I'm keeping the OEM to use as a spare I wont need it.

Thanks!

 

[War Rig]

Replaced CV and repacked the bearings. The CV that was in there wasnt OEM, and my Cardone is late in shipping, so I slid the OReilly one in there. Took care of some slop and clunk. Did NOT take care of the vibration issues I'm having under throttle. Thinking it might be motor or transmission mounts.