Well I guess I"m making a trac bar

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

the ruff stuff track bar is a good kit... works well and goes together nicely... as for do you need one... i would say yes... do to your driveshaft being so short... where as on a 60 the wheel base is a bit longer from the the transfer case ...

how long are your leaf spring perches... longer leaf spring perches also help with axle wrap i put 7inch leaf spring perches in... but i would put a trac bar in ... and run the bottom bar just below the drive shaft to help protect it from rocks...

and was that a course spline pinion ... if it was might want to go to fine spline pinions.... just find some 60 thirds... they will have the fine spline in them...

oh yeah what about the blond:D

here is a pic of mine....

SAM_0302.webp
 
Do what Hellbent showed, I used leaf spring bushings in the rear of mine and a 3/4" heim in the front mounted to a shackle on the cross member behind the t-case. Pretty much standard I think. Able has run a similar design for years as well. If I was to do it again I'd spend more on a QA1 heim or go up to 7/8" or 1".
 
the ruff stuff track bar is a good kit... works well and goes together nicely... as for do you need one... i would say yes... do to your driveshaft being so short... where as on a 60 the wheel base is a bit longer from the the transfer case ...

how long are your leaf spring perches... longer leaf spring perches also help with axle wrap i put 7inch leaf spring perches in... but i would put a trac bar in ... and run the bottom bar just below the drive shaft to help protect it from rocks...

and was that a course spline pinion ... if it was might want to go to fine spline pinions.... just find some 60 thirds... they will have the fine spline in them...

oh yeah what about the blond:D

here is a pic of mine....

Sweet I think I will probably go with the kit. did you build a new cross member to go with?

How long are the links on yours? Do you have any pictures of the front mount?

I will have fine splines... I have a set of 4.56 gears that have been waiting to go in so I'll re-gear now while its all apart.
 
the top bar on mine is close to level as the springs but the end is off attached to the bottom tube... as for the top mount i used a radius arm off of a dodge 1 ton truck.. think it was a 2008 or so ... cut the end off so it still had the bushing in it... and the kit already comes with a heim joint... here is a couple more pics...

as for being level with the springs... the pinion wont rotate down as much when under load... that and it wont effect your suspension travel... thats the way i understood it...

here is a couple more pics... oh yeah mine was almost long enough to reach the factor cross member even with the wheel base being stretched 4plus inches or so..

pic of crossmember mount and only pic of the front that i have

as for the frame boxing kit... thats a good question... the frame is designed to flex a bit do to the inner channel being riveted to the outer channel on a 40 frame... so it will give a bit .. which is good with a leaf spring truck... if i was going to box my frame in i would do it if i was going to do a four link in the rear so there is know twist in the frame...

SAM_0295.webp


SAM_0301.webp


SAM_0304.webp
 
Last edited:
Why is this? I see some people doing them upside down looking even?

If the front is angled up too much you create too much antisquat . It will cause your rig to bounce when your tires get spinning going up hill . Hellbent's geometry is good . It shouldn't get bouncing too much , There will always be a little bit from the tires loading up and unloading . I'm going to be making one for the 60 I'm building in a week or two . I have to decide what exactly I'm going to do about the front of the bar yet though .
 
Back
Top Bottom