Weber Gurus?

[Scott68FJ40]

I know that a lot of people are running Weber Carbs and seem happy with them. I am running one, a 32 DGV, that came on my cruiser. I am very indifferent about it, but it is what I currently have.

If there is anyone out there that really knows about jetting and tuning these things, I would love to ask some questions.

Please PM, or reply here if you are a Weber guru, and wouldn't mind offering some advice and answering some questions.

 

[desertdude]

a ton of info here: http://www.webercarburetors.com/

scroll down and choose your carb from the pop up menu

 

[desertdude]

couple quick tips, the fuel needs to be clean, the carb needs clean dust free air, fuel pressure needs to be regulated, the jets need to be the proper size otherwise it will run too rich, electric choke ( if you have one) needs 12 volts

its all on that site above

 

[treerootCO]

I have the 38 DGEV on my 78. I went through tons of $5.00 jets to get it right. The most important thing to check is the adapter that comes with most Webers. It is usually two plates and the screws are too long. You will never be able to cure the vacuum leaks on a Weber unless you grind off the last two threads on both sets of screws. I did this and no longer have any vacuum leaks or that, oh so nice, whistling noise under the hood. I'll post my jetting info when I find it. It is for the 38/38 but it may still apply. If I remember correctly, a good rule for adjusting the jets is one stop for every 3000 feet in elevation. Use the main jets for major changes and the air for fine tuning.

 

[Scott68FJ40]

couple quick tips, the fuel needs to be clean, the carb needs clean dust free air, fuel pressure needs to be regulated, the jets need to be the proper size otherwise it will run too rich, electric choke ( if you have one) needs 12 volts

its all on that site above

All of that is obvious. I don't have an issue with dirty fuel or air. Fuel pressure is also fine, but I need help with the jetting, and I have never been able to find the "right" answer to what the correct jetting should be.

 

[Scott68FJ40]

I have the 38 DGEV on my 78. I went through tons of $5.00 jets to get it right. The most important thing to check is the adapter that comes with most Webers. It is usually two plates and the screws are too long. You will never be able to cure the vacuum leaks on a Weber unless you grind off the last two threads on both sets of screws. I did this and no longer have any vacuum leaks or that, oh so nice, whistling noise under the hood. I'll post my jetting info when I find it. It is for the 38/38 but it may still apply. If I remember correctly, a good rule for adjusting the jets is one stop for every 3000 feet in elevation. Use the main jets for major changes and the air for fine tuning.

I know that I need to remove my adapter plates and check them. I have noticed the whistling noise, but it doesn't happen all the time.

What has really gotten me is that as of last week, I have to pour gas down the top of the carb to get the cruiser to even start. After it starts, it will start again as long as it is warm, but if i let it sit over night, I have to pour gas down the carb again to start.

I have always had a problem with it having a dead spot when I have the accelerator about 3/4 way to the floor.

I am planning on doing a re-build of the carb, even though it was rebuilt just a couple years ago, but I would really like to have some clue as to what jets to install.

I would appreciate your jetting info if you can find it.

 

[Scott68FJ40]

Looks like I need to find the correct numbers for the Primary and Secondary Main Jets, Idle Jets and Air Correctors.

 

[thorvald]

I found the return spring for the accelerator to not work very well with my 71 cable setup.
itll idle high cause the spring wont return it all the way.

if i had to do it over, id search harder for a rebuilt aisin. no complaints on the weber so far, just seeing the issues people have had with them and oem is hard to beat.

 

[brian]

I have the 38 DGEV on my 78. I went through tons of $5.00 jets to get it right. The most important thing to check is the adapter that comes with most Webers. It is usually two plates and the screws are too long. You will never be able to cure the vacuum leaks on a Weber unless you grind off the last two threads on both sets of screws. I did this and no longer have any vacuum leaks or that, oh so nice, whistling noise under the hood. I'll post my jetting info when I find it. It is for the 38/38 but it may still apply. If I remember correctly, a good rule for adjusting the jets is one stop for every 3000 feet in elevation. Use the main jets for major changes and the air for fine tuning.

i'd be intertested in your jet sizes and such.
i have a 38 on a 77 and have been thinking about tinkering with the jets.

 

[desertdude]

Me2

 

[treerootCO]

A little late on the reply but I figured it wouldn't hurt....

I bought all my jets from www.carbs.net a little spendy but I guess about average.

5280 elevation
Weber 38/38

• 135 Main------------->73801.135
• 190 or 200 Air------->77201.200 Either will work but depends on altitude if lean or rich.
• 50 Idle Big----------->74409.050
• 50 Idle Small-------->74403.050
• 70 Pump------------->76215.070 Weber came with the 70 pump

A good rule for adjusting the jets is one stop for every 3000 feet in elevation. Use the main jets for major changes and the air for fine tuning.

 

[TexomaFJ40]

"What has really gotten me is that as of last week, I have to pour gas down the top of the carb to get the cruiser to even start. After it starts, it will start again as long as it is warm, but if i let it sit over night, I have to pour gas down the carb again to start."

I had the same problem, the carb was fuel starved....electric fuel pump. No longer a problem. I also had to increase the timing on my distributor one tooth.

 

[desertdude]

Thanks for that jet info Root