1world1love
SILVER Star
So this is way out of my league, but doesn't the CC sense the slip for each wheel and control for it independently? If that is the case, wouldn't locking the center diff limit this ability? Or am I misunderstanding CC?
VSC/4Lo/ABS lights - C1268 code (2 Viewers)
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So this is way out of my league, but doesn't the CC sense the slip for each wheel and control for it independently? If that is the case, wouldn't locking the center diff limit this ability? Or am I misunderstanding CC?
- Thread starter
- #22
Yes, this is the place. I'd give you guys some big Corona virus non-hugs and "air high fives" right now if I could.
indycole
GOLD Star
Yeah, I guess if a locked center diff reduces wheel slip then CC probably won't modulate the braking as much for those wheels. I think it's preferable to not have CC working as hard because the system does shut down at some point... I think due to overheating. Think of CC like automated power-braking but with finely-tuned control at each wheel. One can employ power braking with center diff locked and even front/rear lockers for ultimate control and traction. CC provides an approximation of that technique. I've done some testing with all 3 lockers on as well as CC. It still works but not "as hard" if that makes sense? That said, I've only experimented with that scenario once or twice.
1world1love
SILVER Star
Gotcha. That makes sense. I had never considered what would happen using CC if you had front and rear lockers installed. It makes sense that the lockers would still handle the bulk of the work while CC still did it’s thing. All the computer can know is what each wheel is doing, not necessarily why.
Thanks for the response. Much appreciated.
I am having a very similar problem as the original poster.
I purchased a used 2008 LX570 w/153K
I just put on new larger wheels 275/70/18
I did the same thing as the OP and took it out to do some light 4x4.
After engaging 4LO and testing crawl control I went to switch back to H4
Check VSC System is on
ABS light is on
Triangle ! is on
Traction control light is on.
Unable to raise or lower vehicle.
Vehicle is out of 4Lo but lights stay on
Came home checked all the relevant fuses and they are good. Also disconnected the battery and this cleared the lights.
Restarted vehicle and re-engaged 4Lo (I can hear it shift into gear) but when trying to go back to H4 the same lights and problems occurred.
Disconnect the battery again and cleared the lights. Went for a quick test to a dirt lot
Able to engage 4Lo but when moving back to 4H the same issue occurred.
Disconnected the battery in the dirt lot but now when I disconnect the battery it DOES NOT clear the lights. The lights remain and H/L4 is disabled as well as height control. I have now disconnected the battery 4x and it will not clear the lights. Hmmmm why
Another post mentioned -
"I suggest there is a very strong likelihood that your VSC system needs to be recalibrated post your lift. I think more than 2 inches requires it. The manual describes this. Its a fairly simple procedure for the dealer or someone with the intelli tester tool. I the procedure has been descibed either here or on Lcool forum.
Heres what the manual says: http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/repair2/html/contents/rm000001dwz00kx.html "
The link is dead and another poster mentioned it could be cured with a paperclip. Is anyone familiar with this recalibration?
Open to any suggestions.
I purchased a used 2008 LX570 w/153K
I just put on new larger wheels 275/70/18
I did the same thing as the OP and took it out to do some light 4x4.
After engaging 4LO and testing crawl control I went to switch back to H4
Check VSC System is on
ABS light is on
Triangle ! is on
Traction control light is on.
Unable to raise or lower vehicle.
Vehicle is out of 4Lo but lights stay on
Came home checked all the relevant fuses and they are good. Also disconnected the battery and this cleared the lights.
Restarted vehicle and re-engaged 4Lo (I can hear it shift into gear) but when trying to go back to H4 the same lights and problems occurred.
Disconnect the battery again and cleared the lights. Went for a quick test to a dirt lot
Able to engage 4Lo but when moving back to 4H the same issue occurred.
Disconnected the battery in the dirt lot but now when I disconnect the battery it DOES NOT clear the lights. The lights remain and H/L4 is disabled as well as height control. I have now disconnected the battery 4x and it will not clear the lights. Hmmmm why
Another post mentioned -
"I suggest there is a very strong likelihood that your VSC system needs to be recalibrated post your lift. I think more than 2 inches requires it. The manual describes this. Its a fairly simple procedure for the dealer or someone with the intelli tester tool. I the procedure has been descibed either here or on Lcool forum.
Heres what the manual says: http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/repair2/html/contents/rm000001dwz00kx.html "
The link is dead and another poster mentioned it could be cured with a paperclip. Is anyone familiar with this recalibration?
Open to any suggestions.
Last edited:
RET2
SILVER Star
This is how the Tacoma resets the VSC How to reset and calibrate your VSC computer - The Easy way
not sure if it translates to the 200 platform.
OK, this sounds like what the other poster was recommending - I am a little gun shy to short this plug out on an LX since this recommendation is for a Tacoma. Can anyone verify this works on the same on the LX before I start shorting this plug.
Last edited:
TLC2013
SILVER Star
lol I completely understand. This thread provides details on the 200 series Zero Point Calibration. Post 11 has what you are looking for.
I have been meaning to do this on my 2013 even though I haven’t noticed anything out of the ordinary after lift, tires and alignment.
Zero Point Calibration
It's not talked about on this site, but it's a thing in almost all Toyota/Lexus models - zero point calibration. I have not researched this topic enough to understand it fully, but it's generally recommended after any sort of suspension, alignment, steering rack work, that a zero point...
forum.ih8mud.com
RET2
SILVER Star
If you pursue a similar method I found it easier to make a short wire jumper with a momentary switch to facilitate the 4 cycles. I keep it in the truck just incase as it takes virtually no space.
I can't say for sure it's related to zero point calibration as that system shouldn't be cleared just by removing the batt. But stranger things have happened.
IMO, I think there's some microswitch or wiper switch that's not contacting properly in the transfer case. It's a common issue that's related to various permutations of the check VSC system issue. As you're symptoms are started with switching to 4LO, it would lead me to think this is the issue.
Here's a thread below for more insight. I would try taking a screwdriver or wrench and tapping the cover of the lower actuator in the transfer case. That may help jar the contacts/microswitch to fix the immediate situation. Though you'll want to R&R per the thread instructions for a more permanent fix.
Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix
Transfer case actuator issues are not uncommon on the 200-series. Not much documented solutions other than exercising the mechanisms regularly. Here's my attempt to provide more information on where and what the actuator is, how to service the transfer case actuator motor, and potentially...
forum.ih8mud.com
OK made a test wire to jump the connections.
Turned the ignition to the on position but did not start car. Touched the terminal 4x and got this Diag VSG on dash. Turned off ignition.
connected terminal and turned ignition back on and these lights showed up in dash
4-Wheel AHC Test mode & VGRS Test Mode flash on dash. I waited a few min and turned off ignition.
When I turned the ignition back on I have the same lights as before. I tried repeating a few times but get same results. There are a few Youtube video that show this same procedures on slightly different cars but can't seem to replicate positive results with mine.
I see TeCKis300 post about the transfer case. I will crawl under and look at that next.
Turned the ignition to the on position but did not start car. Touched the terminal 4x and got this Diag VSG on dash. Turned off ignition.
connected terminal and turned ignition back on and these lights showed up in dash
4-Wheel AHC Test mode & VGRS Test Mode flash on dash. I waited a few min and turned off ignition.
When I turned the ignition back on I have the same lights as before. I tried repeating a few times but get same results. There are a few Youtube video that show this same procedures on slightly different cars but can't seem to replicate positive results with mine.
I see TeCKis300 post about the transfer case. I will crawl under and look at that next.
Ha! I had the same thing happen when I first put it in 4LO only. X-Mas tree. First thoughts where dang I hate electronics this was a bad purchase. Turned it off for a few minutes and retried 4LO and it was fine. Then the same thing happened when I locked the diffs. That kept happening for half a day. But after 2 days of constant use it just worked itself out and now I never have an issue. Unless I bump the diff button with my knee. I am rather tall.
It does sound like if non of these systems are used they tend to get a little sticky.
Follow up.
I removed the metal covers from the transfer case actuator. The oil on the case is WD40 rust bolt remove spray I used in case I decided to crack the actuator open. There were no signs of any leakage.
I used a plastic hammer to give it a few light taps all around the plastic case each morning and evening hoping to free the actuator.
On the first day the case would shift from hi and lo and the lights would go on and not shift back to LO.
On the second day I got it to shift 2x from HI/LO and back before the lights would go on and I would have to wait a day for the system to reset.
On the 4th day I was able to get the system to switch between HI/LO without lights!
I believe this LX was rarely used for offroad and the actuator was just stuck from non-use.
It is now been 6 days and I have been shifting it into lo/hi 10x a day. It shifts very easy now and no lights.
Thanks to this great community for sharing their knowledge.
I removed the metal covers from the transfer case actuator. The oil on the case is WD40 rust bolt remove spray I used in case I decided to crack the actuator open. There were no signs of any leakage.
I used a plastic hammer to give it a few light taps all around the plastic case each morning and evening hoping to free the actuator.
On the first day the case would shift from hi and lo and the lights would go on and not shift back to LO.
On the second day I got it to shift 2x from HI/LO and back before the lights would go on and I would have to wait a day for the system to reset.
On the 4th day I was able to get the system to switch between HI/LO without lights!
I believe this LX was rarely used for offroad and the actuator was just stuck from non-use.
It is now been 6 days and I have been shifting it into lo/hi 10x a day. It shifts very easy now and no lights.
Thanks to this great community for sharing their knowledge.
FYI..
Center Diff Lock - Locks the Front and Rear drive shafts together giving you 50/50 torque split.. using the transfer case
Crawl control- uses the wheel speed sensors to vary torque to the individual wheels.. using the brakes to stop when spin and transferring torque to the non-spinning wheel.
4LO activation - is in neutral (not park) - it locks the truck into low range in the transfer case
Off road, lock the Center Diff Lock (CDL).. normally for "trails" .... on say a dirt road going faster than say 15mph leave it unlocked.
Exercise 4LO and the CDL regularly (you can do it on pavement in a straight line, but you need to move the electronic actuators). Once a month or so, lock then and drive up and down your driveway or whatever. you don't have to go far, just move the actuators and move the gears.
Differentials work by allowing the wheels (front to back or side to side) to move at different speeds.. locking them does just that, it locks them into the same speed - it makes them move at the same rate.
Center Diff Lock - Locks the Front and Rear drive shafts together giving you 50/50 torque split.. using the transfer case
Crawl control- uses the wheel speed sensors to vary torque to the individual wheels.. using the brakes to stop when spin and transferring torque to the non-spinning wheel.
4LO activation - is in neutral (not park) - it locks the truck into low range in the transfer case
Off road, lock the Center Diff Lock (CDL).. normally for "trails" .... on say a dirt road going faster than say 15mph leave it unlocked.
Exercise 4LO and the CDL regularly (you can do it on pavement in a straight line, but you need to move the electronic actuators). Once a month or so, lock then and drive up and down your driveway or whatever. you don't have to go far, just move the actuators and move the gears.
Differentials work by allowing the wheels (front to back or side to side) to move at different speeds.. locking them does just that, it locks them into the same speed - it makes them move at the same rate.
RET2
SILVER Star
And the proverbial LFH
I figured Id ad my experience with this code. I think Ive seen it before due to being quick on the shift to 4lo without pushing in on the switch and giving it time to go in. During those times turning it off and on would clear the flashing 4lo light.
Most recently it appeared and would not clear with any code reader. I followed the OE procedure from all data and it was rather long. After few hours we decided to punt and do what we do with 4th gen 4Runners which is to loosen but not remove the actuator and move it around to loosen it up. We tightened it up and started it . Like most Toyotas it was probably lack of use. IT cleared the code on its own. I went out and went in and out of center diff lock and 4lo and no issues for several tests. Sunroofs and 4wd /4lo should be used once a week in my opinion to keep from failures
Most recently it appeared and would not clear with any code reader. I followed the OE procedure from all data and it was rather long. After few hours we decided to punt and do what we do with 4th gen 4Runners which is to loosen but not remove the actuator and move it around to loosen it up. We tightened it up and started it . Like most Toyotas it was probably lack of use. IT cleared the code on its own. I went out and went in and out of center diff lock and 4lo and no issues for several tests. Sunroofs and 4wd /4lo should be used once a week in my opinion to keep from failures
I joined the "Check VSC System" warning light salad club this AM - 2008, just hit 180k miles. We'd used Center Diff lock extensively on a round trip NC to CO Feb 5-17, the LC was perfect in heavy snow conditions. I'd bought chains, never even tempted to put them on, she's rock solid w/ Defender LTX M/S on there, but I digress.
Been back a week normal around town driving, garaged, more or less heated, so I was surprised to see the "Check VSC System", CEL, traction control off, and warning triangle all on this AM when we started the old girl up to take the kids to school. Persisted a restart cycle. Since oil pressure and temp were fine and driving seemed normal, did the school round trip then headed here for answers.
Did the battery disconnect trick (I don't have OBDII scanner . . . yet. About to buy one so digging here for rec's). Reconnected, lights gone, and went through multiple cycles of Center Diff Lock, 4LO up and backs in the driveway, flat and straight. Probably engaged both 5-7 times, worked fine, lights gone, even tried Crawl Control, which also engaged fine but, she didn't like it on a flat driveway at idle speed so only did that 1x.
Anyway, if my light salad comes back will dig into codes, so far, so good.
Vid of lights:
Been back a week normal around town driving, garaged, more or less heated, so I was surprised to see the "Check VSC System", CEL, traction control off, and warning triangle all on this AM when we started the old girl up to take the kids to school. Persisted a restart cycle. Since oil pressure and temp were fine and driving seemed normal, did the school round trip then headed here for answers.
Did the battery disconnect trick (I don't have OBDII scanner . . . yet. About to buy one so digging here for rec's). Reconnected, lights gone, and went through multiple cycles of Center Diff Lock, 4LO up and backs in the driveway, flat and straight. Probably engaged both 5-7 times, worked fine, lights gone, even tried Crawl Control, which also engaged fine but, she didn't like it on a flat driveway at idle speed so only did that 1x.
Anyway, if my light salad comes back will dig into codes, so far, so good.
Vid of lights:
My bet is an emissions hiccup. Let us know what code you see.
I just encountered what I thought was a similar problem but it ended up being different. I’m very familiar with the ‘classic’ CDL blink and have always been able to resolve and avoid it by using 4Lo and diff lock regularly. After having a local shop replace the rear output seal on my transfer case, the very next time I hit the diff lock button my dash lit up with the following:
CDL blink
ABS light
Traction Control light
PCS light
Warning Triangle
Two messages:
Check VSC System
Check PCS System
The only difference in lights was the addition of PCS stuff on top of the usual array. There are other posts describing PCS sensors being dirty so I cleaned mine and nothing changed. The CDL and 4Lo also still worked. Restarting the car didn’t help. I tried driving with diff locked in 4Lo and after a bit of that and another restart, the lights all disappeared! Until..... I started driving and hit the brakes. The moment I hit the brakes the lights all came back.
I started to think it may be an ABS sensor so I unplugged and replugged each of them to no avail. My cheap code scanner also read no codes for this. Since my DIY abilities end abruptly with electrical issues I went back to the shop. They found that one of the ABS sensors was indeed broken! It was a relatively cheap fix and now my truck is back in business. Hopefully this helps if anyone else ends up seeing this combination of lights. And FWIW, I believe the sensor broke at the shop during the original repair because they very kindly cleaned off some caked on mud from the area that the sensor was in and I assume used a pressure washer.
CDL blink
ABS light
Traction Control light
PCS light
Warning Triangle
Two messages:
Check VSC System
Check PCS System
The only difference in lights was the addition of PCS stuff on top of the usual array. There are other posts describing PCS sensors being dirty so I cleaned mine and nothing changed. The CDL and 4Lo also still worked. Restarting the car didn’t help. I tried driving with diff locked in 4Lo and after a bit of that and another restart, the lights all disappeared! Until..... I started driving and hit the brakes. The moment I hit the brakes the lights all came back.
I started to think it may be an ABS sensor so I unplugged and replugged each of them to no avail. My cheap code scanner also read no codes for this. Since my DIY abilities end abruptly with electrical issues I went back to the shop. They found that one of the ABS sensors was indeed broken! It was a relatively cheap fix and now my truck is back in business. Hopefully this helps if anyone else ends up seeing this combination of lights. And FWIW, I believe the sensor broke at the shop during the original repair because they very kindly cleaned off some caked on mud from the area that the sensor was in and I assume used a pressure washer.
