VSC/4Lo/ABS lights - C1268 code (1 Viewer)

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All,

I'm pretty bummed. I literally just got new tires and wheels on my rig yesterday and today I'm having issues. I confess that I may have done something incorrectly and broken something but I'm sure hoping not.

Here's the scenario: Took the truck to try out the new tires a bit. It's is raining and I was going to try out crawl control just to see how it works, not because I needed it. In my zeal, I neglected to read the owners manual on how to properly engage crawl control. As I was going up a small, muddy hill, I pushed the crawl control button and received the message on my dash that I must be in 4Lo first so I attempted to switch to 4Lo while moving. I did not realize until later when reading the manual that you are supposed to be stopped and in neutral before attempting to switch. However, my thinking(which may be completely incorrect) is that Toyota wouldn't design a system that can be trashed with a simple accidental push of a switch. Either way, I kept moving (30 feet'ish) until I got to the top of the hill and it was level. This is where my memory starts getting fuzzy. I know I attempted once again to engage craw control and successful at some point because I could see the different speed levels show up on my dash. I also heard a somewhat loud "clang" and a jerk of the truck. Also, while in crawl control movement was extremely jerky but from what I've read that should be par for the course.

Anyway, after driving approximately 50 feet in the various speeds of crawl control, I turned CC off. That is when the various dash warning lights came on and the "Check VSC System" message popped up on the dash. As you can see in the picture below, the ABS, 4LO, and Slip Indicator/Trac light are all on now. That is when I broke out the manual and found the correct way of engaging 4LO. However, the truck appears to be in 4Hi and I was able to drive it the 2 miles back to my house. I put the scanner on it and pulled a C1268 - Transfer L4 Position Switch Circuit.

I've attempted reseating my fuel cap but have NOT driven around any with it yet but have sat in the driveway idling for about 10 minutes as I scanned codes. I've also tried to clear it with the scanner I was using but it failed to clear the code.

  • 2011 LX570
  • 126K miles
  • I've owned it for about 9 months and never put it in 4Lo (didn't realize it was something you should do). Have no idea if the previous owner ever put it in 4Lo or not but have a feeling that they did not based on how clean the truck was when I got it, both inside and out.
Would appreciate any suggestions beyond "Drive it around to see if changing the gas cap position fixes it." I will of course do that but am not optimistic.

Thank you!

4Lo.jpg


Codes.jpg
 

indycole

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The first thing I'd try is clearing the codes and then check if you can toggle low range. Do the same with the center diff just for good measure.

I also wonder a bit about the wheel/tire swap and whether you may have put strain on a sensor or harness somewhere. Do you trust the shop that did the work?
 

1world1love

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Yeah, I agree with clearing the lights and then trying 4lo. You may want to actually drive it in 4lo around the block. If you have a dirt or gravel area, you can engage diff lock and roll with that for a few minutes. I'd say that you have some cobwebs from the system not being used. DO NOT engage diff lock on pavement or any solid surface as you can do some serious damage. Be sure to be on something semi-soft like grass, mud, gravel, etc.
 

grinchy

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unplug the battery for 15 min is another option. If you're subsequently having trouble getting into 4lo, leave the switch in 4lo, turn off the ignition, and restart, sometimes that will pop the solenoid enough to actuate 4lo.
 

grinchy

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I've owned it for about 9 months and never put it in 4Lo (didn't realize it was something you should do). Have no idea if the previous owner ever put it in 4Lo or not but have a feeling that they did not based on how clean the truck was when I got it, both inside and out.
yeah, it's sticky. keep trying to put it in and out more frequently and eventually it'll always work. Until then, the christmas tree will light up. I had similar issue; I'm two years in and try to switch it every couple weeks at least, and just now is it closing in on 100% every time actuating.
 

1world1love

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I only had the Christmas tree once, but I occasionally get the flashing diff lock symbol. It always goes away and I have never had any problems with engaging either 4lo or diff lock. It takes a long second for the diff lock to kick in, but it always does.

Interestingly, the only service item in my trucks history that was not routine was the previous owner complaining about the flashing diff lock. The service tech noted that since they couldn’t reproduce the issue, and the po was an older gentlemwn that he was likely accidentally hitting the diff lock button somehow.
 
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Yeah, I agree with clearing the lights and then trying 4lo. You may want to actually drive it in 4lo around the block. If you have a dirt or gravel area, you can engage diff lock and roll with that for a few minutes. I'd say that you have some cobwebs from the system not being used. DO NOT engage diff lock on pavement or any solid surface as you can do some serious damage. Be sure to be on something semi-soft like grass, mud, gravel, etc.
unplug the battery for 15 min is another option. If you're subsequently having trouble getting into 4lo, leave the switch in 4lo, turn off the ignition, and restart, sometimes that will pop the solenoid enough to actuate 4lo.

Thanks for the quick responses guys!

I'll try the battery thing now. I'll try to get 4Lo to engaged but I was having trouble with that after everything lit up. Perhaps I was not patient enough. Will try again.

Quick embarrassing noob question: How do you engage the diff lock?
 

indycole

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Re: center diff lock... look for a button like the one circle in the photo below. It could be elsewhere on a 2011 LX.

I toggle the center diff while in drive at low speeds while driving straight. If you're in a scenario where you want low range and crawl control you probably should have already had the transfer case locked so you'd be in proper 4wd :)

Screen Shot 2020-03-20 at 2.47.52 PM.png
 
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Re: center diff lock... look for a button like the one circle in the photo below. It could be elsewhere on a 2011 LX.

I toggle the center diff while in drive at low speeds while driving straight. If you're in a scenario where you want low range and crawl control you probably should have already had the transfer case locked so you'd be in proper 4wd :)

View attachment 2244256
Thank you! Apologies for being lazy and not Googling it first.
 

1world1love

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Re: center diff lock... look for a button like the one circle in the photo below. It could be elsewhere on a 2011 LX.

I toggle the center diff while in drive at low speeds while driving straight. If you're in a scenario where you want low range and crawl control you probably should have already had the transfer case locked so you'd be in proper 4wd :)

Interesting. I thought that Crawl Control would automatically engage the diff lock if it wasn't already. You learn something new everyday on here.
 

nwfl4runner

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You can't switch into 4LO when moving, it'll just tell you to put in N. Clear the code, warm the truck up, and try to switch in and out of 4LO. Keep your window down to hear the click (it's obvious). It's probably just stuck from non-use. Drive the truck around for a good 20-30 minutes, you want the heat to loosen everything up.
 

afgman786

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Interesting. I thought that Crawl Control would automatically engage the diff lock if it wasn't already. You learn something new everyday on here.

My understanding was that crawl control does not need Center Diff locked, since it uses the computers to determine which wheels to send power to. It does not split power between the axles, instead whichever wheels have traction it will send it there
 
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Thanks for the quick responses guys!

I'll try the battery thing now. I'll try to get 4Lo to engaged but I was having trouble with that after everything lit up. Perhaps I was not patient enough. Will try again.

Quick embarrassing noob question: How do you engage the diff lock?

Yay! It seems to be fixed. I'd almost given up hope.

So, I attempted multiple times to clear the code but my scanner would say "Codes cleared" while I'm looking at the dash seeing the lights still on. However, I tried one more time with the vehicle turned off and that seems to have done the trick in clearing the code. When I restarted the engine, all the lights were gone. Is that the SOP for clearing codes? While the vehicle is turned off?

Anyway, once I got the lights cleared, I was able to follow the steps from @nwfl4runner : Turn engine on, put in neutral, switch to 4Lo....heard the "click" and then drove some in that mode, no problem. Then engaged the Diff Lock (thanks everyone!) and that worked fine as well. Put it back in neutral and re-engaged 4Hi and drove home.

Thanks for all the tips guys. Really appreciate it. I was sweating bullets after spending $2K+ on new tires and wheels and was freaking out that I was going to have spend big $$$ to fix something I broke less than 24 hours later.
 

afgman786

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Yay! It seems to be fixed. I'd almost given up hope.

So, I attempted multiple times to clear the code but my scanner would say "Codes cleared" while I'm looking at the dash seeing the lights still on. However, I tried one more time with the vehicle turned off and that seems to have done the trick in clearing the code. When I restarted the engine, all the lights were gone. Is that the SOP for clearing codes? While the vehicle is turned off?

Anyway, once I got the lights cleared, I was able to follow the steps from @nwfl4runner : Turn engine on, put in neutral, switch to 4Lo....heard the "click" and then drove some in that mode, no problem. Then engaged the Diff Lock (thanks everyone!) and that worked fine as well. Put it back in neutral and re-engaged 4Hi and drove home.

Thanks for all the tips guys. Really appreciate it. I was sweating bullets after spending $2K+ on new tires and wheels and was freaking out that I was going to have spend big $$$ to fix something I broke less than 24 hours later.

In my experience with getting the christmas tree on the dash, turning the vehicle off for a few minutes then back on has fixed the issue. Especially when it has been with 4lo or center diff acting up.
 

grinchy

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we've all been there with this christmas tree if bought used. Most people NEVER lock diffs and NEVER NEVER NEVER use 4lo or Crawl Control.
 

indycole

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My understanding was that crawl control does not need Center Diff locked, since it uses the computers to determine which wheels to send power to. It does not split power between the axles, instead whichever wheels have traction it will send it there

Crawl + center diff locked should pretty much always provide more control than crawl alone.
 

1world1love

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Yay! It seems to be fixed. I'd almost given up hope.

So, I attempted multiple times to clear the code but my scanner would say "Codes cleared" while I'm looking at the dash seeing the lights still on. However, I tried one more time with the vehicle turned off and that seems to have done the trick in clearing the code. When I restarted the engine, all the lights were gone. Is that the SOP for clearing codes? While the vehicle is turned off?

Anyway, once I got the lights cleared, I was able to follow the steps from @nwfl4runner : Turn engine on, put in neutral, switch to 4Lo....heard the "click" and then drove some in that mode, no problem. Then engaged the Diff Lock (thanks everyone!) and that worked fine as well. Put it back in neutral and re-engaged 4Hi and drove home.

Thanks for all the tips guys. Really appreciate it. I was sweating bullets after spending $2K+ on new tires and wheels and was freaking out that I was going to have spend big $$$ to fix something I broke less than 24 hours later.

Excellent. It has happened to many folks on here. That's what makes this place so great. There isn't much that can happen that somebody on here can't help with.
 

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