video diagnosis! vacuum, voltage reg etc

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destin

destin

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
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portland or
hiya guys

1) here is a video of the vacuum at cold start.
Notice the flicker and lower vacuum, hits 20ish at vacuum at operating temperature.
But hits 16-17 with flicker/ pulse when at cold start, this ok (watch video please )

The engine is freshly rebuilt, had a head gasket pop after rebuild which has been remedied. Does that pulse flicker mean the head gasket is going again?

YouTube - P1014308 2

The engine shop said the head bolts should not need retorquing so i haven't btw.


2) at start up i notice some smoke, but it has been sitting all night... condensation?
I hope so, goes away after things reach operating temperature...

a) only other thing it could be is leaky valve guides i guess, but everything is new so that seems unlikely yeah?


YouTube - P1014310


3) Peep this, when car running the battery spikes up to 16 volts... voltage regulator set too high? Shows high before the coil to when running...
How do i set/adjust the electrical voltage reg ( mine was updated when i rebuilt the generator ) Are they adjustable? ( with lights, wipers and heater it hits at 15 volts )

a) Noticed the starter ground was not put on, could be the problem? Need to go to napa and get one and install today

YouTube - P1014312

4) I noticed a frayed wire right where the starter connects to the hot side of the coil... I iwll replace the connector today, could this be contributing problems>?
 
Ok at first, an engine is buid up from different type's of metal.
Cilinders and pistons are totaly different for instance. These metals all have a different expansion coeficient which means they will have the right shape at operating temp and not when cold or warming up. Modern engines have efi and are constantly monitored by the ecu to run as perfect as possible even when warming up. Your engine is a design from the fifty's or even before that, it has large tollerances and uses a carb which is set to one position and has limited adjustment when set. It has no ecu checking the variety's in conditions in and outside the engine. In other words your engine will not run perfect with a perfect vacuum when cold or warming up. What you see is completely normal, I would say it sounds very good and kicks in very easy.

The white smoke when warming up is normal, like you sad its condensation in the exhaust and this stops when the last part of the exhaust comes above 17 degr Celcius (condensation point)

Third one is not good this will kill your battery and in a later stage other Electrical componants. You should have that adjusted right away to 13,6 to 14 volts
 
cool thansk man!

hooked up the volt meter at the shop, and i was off on myreadings ( looking at the wrong number )

12.5 at idle with no accessories, 11.9 with every thing on accesory wise.

Looks likes my voltage reg is bad, or my generator jsut churns out to low ( was newly rebuilt so it should be ok )

Hunting down a new electric volt regulator now :)

Gonna hook up my starter ground now and look over bits at the shop

QUESTIOn

where on the volt regulator does the amperage indicator hook up to? which terminal? B+ ?

mine was disconnected...
 
destin said:
cool thansk man!

hooked up the volt meter at the shop, and i was off on myreadings ( looking at the wrong number )

12.5 at idle with no accessories, 11.9 with every thing on accesory wise.

Looks likes my voltage reg is bad, or my generator jsut churns out to low ( was newly rebuilt so it should be ok )

Hunting down a new electric volt regulator now :)

Gonna hook up my starter ground now and look over bits at the shop

QUESTIOn

where on the volt regulator does the amperage indicator hook up to? which terminal? B+ ?

mine was disconnected...
Click to expand...

If you have the generator its normal to have lower valtage at idlle speeds. Dont know the conection for the amp meter, have to see the schedual for that, maybe someone else can help you with that.
 
cool thanks man

yeah might be jsut the generator like you said :)

Any way to check if the vacuum advance on the distributer to the carb is working properly?
The dist is a new one form toyota, but never hurts to know how to check if s*** is in working order :D

I have it advanced between the needle and the bottom of the bell housing window ( about 11-12 degrees advance i would guess )

fuel mixture is screwed out pretty far, but seems to be running no too rich :)
No vacuum leaks that i can find, seems solid :)
 
cool thansk man :D

hey, does anyone know if there is supposed to be a wire connected here on the dist?

it is a 1964 fj40 f135 motor with the newer toyota dist that is compatible with the old style

5124398056_e092a19ed4_o.png


sorry if this is a dumb question :D
 
also this is a vacuum advance distributer i believe no?

I have the vacuum line running to the carb at the port for vacuum in the base is that correct?
Seems to run the same with that line pinched or not pinched, does that seem right?

Let me grab some photos brb
 
so itested the vacuum advance by removing the vacuum line form the carb side, then sucking on that line while running, the idle went up, all good there.

Removed the vacuum line form the dizzy side and hooked it up to the carb side, , no vacuum at idle, ( normal ) and when i rev it i have vacuum, all good there....


So i started thinking, what could cause a little loss of power?

A little history, PO had made a PCV fitting in the based of the front of the throttle body/base, and was running no riser.
I put in a riser/ insulator from Mark ( thanks Mark ) and capped the old one by putting a rubber hose with the other end sealed..., but i megan thinking,,,... could that rubber hose cap cuase some weird disturbances in the carb to cause fuel to burn funny, like running air and fuel past a capped but empy space, of course it woudl wonk stuff right>?

So i crimped the hose closer to the old PCV tapped by the PO, seemed to be more POWER :)
So my plan is to get a nut or screw to seal up that old PCV the PO had tapped, removing any chance of a weird mixture air disturbance in the throttle body. Mark had told me to do this before but i rednecked the fix with my hose cap hehe.

Gawd i am an idiot, hopefully this will give me a better power range.
I guess the proof will be once i close that old PCV properly eh?

What you guys think? ( other than me being an asshat ) :D
 
:)

valves where adjusted cold then hot when the new head gasket was installed so it should be ok :)
I can hear the valves more than I used to, more sewing machine like.

I will adjust the valves when I have some more milage :)

vacuum gets better when it is at opperating temps

pullsstrong 20 pounds when warm

Les flicker too, very slight :)

what ya thinking ?
 
I spray the beJebus outta the intkake / exhaust with carb cleaner, soaked it, no change in rpms...

But I did not spray it cold...

I retorques the intake ehast against the head though...

I will soak the s*** outta it with carb cleaner tomorrow during cold start and see if I get an rpm spike..
But it just might be normal cold starting yeah?
 
They used a modern gasket and new bolts so retorqueing is a bad idea, it will screw up the head gasket. Just listen to what these guys say, they have to pay when it goes wrong again, but not if you :censor: yourself.
 
Retorque, some say yes, some say maybe. Ya, don't want to mess with the warranty, if they feel like they did a good job in the first place then I like to support that. I cranked mine down and during a retorque I got small gains. Since you have a vacuum gauge do a search on vacuum gauge troubleshooting. Do all RPMs to diagnois. 12.6 volts is OK at idle, what do you read at higher RPMs?
 
Although you don't want to I would recheck valves, it appears to very clearly be a valve issue. It could possably burn a valve if adjustd wrong (did it many years ago), the risk is not wortth not checking, and you will likely smooth out your idle. I would also likley retorque head, wheather one NEEDS to or not can depend on a number of factors, such as gasket choice and if you reused head bolts; once again not likley worth the risk.

These are all things that have come back to bite me over 30 years of Landcruisers and Big six's.

Nice Ride by the way.

Bob in CO
 
rlong said:
Although you don't want to I would recheck valves, it appears to very clearly be a valve issue. It could possably burn a valve if adjustd wrong (did it many years ago), the risk is not wortth not checking, and you will likely smooth out your idle. I would also likley retorque head, wheather one NEEDS to or not can depend on a number of factors, such as gasket choice and if you reused head bolts; once again not likley worth the risk.

These are all things that have come back to bite me over 30 years of Landcruisers and Big six's.

Nice Ride by the way.

Bob in CO
Click to expand...

Thanks man :)

Yeha I need to teach my self how to adjust the valves ( last bit i have not done my self )

Will look into it.
They used a factory toyota head gasket, no idea if the bolts are new or not, they told me not to torque them but I will ask them again tomorrow .

Thansk guys
 
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