video diagnosis! vacuum, voltage reg etc

[waiting for time]

Thanks man

Yeha I need to teach my self how to adjust the valves ( last bit i have not done my self )

Will look into it.
They used a factory toyota head gasket, no idea if the bolts are new or not, they told me not to torque them but I will ask them again tomorrow .

Thansk guys

You don't need to adjust the valve as long as they are not to tight. If you can hear them it is ok. They are adjusted a bit wide so the valves can settle during the first 5k miles. They need to be adjusted after that. If you adjust them now with the correct clearance they will end up to tight when settling in and burn.

 

[IDave]

QUESTIOn

where on the volt regulator does the amperage indicator hook up to? which terminal? B+ ?

mine was disconnected...

One WR1 wire goes from the A terminal on the Voltage Regulator to the Amperage indicator. (A=Amperage! Who'd'a thunk it!) The other WR1 wire goes from the A terminal on the VR to the A terminal on the Generator.


*edit* The W wire goes from the B terminal to (drum roll please.......) the Battery! (via the starter, with a branch off to the fuse box).
The F terminal goes to the Field Generator. All of this is a secret WWII Japanese code I decripted.

 

[IDave]

Here are the specs.

 

[destin]

You don't need to adjust the valve as long as they are not to tight. If you can hear them it is ok. They are adjusted a bit wide so the valves can settle during the first 5k miles. They need to be adjusted after that. If you adjust them now with the correct clearance they will end up to tight when settling in and burn.

hmmm

Be patient with me here

I am pretty sure the shop, when they put the new head in, adjusted the valves to stock specs ...

But what you are saying is that will cause then valves to burn out, and i need to adjus them looser than stock specs in order to break them in>?

 

[destin]

One WR1 wire goes from the A terminal on the Voltage Regulator to the Amperage indicator. (A=Amperage! Who'd'a thunk it!) The other WR1 wire goes from the A terminal on the VR to the A terminal on the Generator.


*edit* The W wire goes from the B terminal to (drum roll please.......) the Battery! (via the starter, with a branch off to the fuse box).
The F terminal goes to the Field Generator. All of this is a secret WWII Japanese code I decripted.

secret code to me

Sorry the wiring s***e is all greek to me

:: fires up enigma machine ::

So the amperage indicator wire goes on the A terminal of the voltage regulator yes? ( i believe the amperage wire is white with a blue stripe if that helps )
//edit A=Amperage! Who'd'a thunk it!; makes sense

Thanks man

 

[waiting for time]

hmmm

Be patient with me here

I am pretty sure the shop, when they put the new head in, adjusted the valves to stock specs ...

But what you are saying is that will cause then valves to burn out, and i need to adjus them looser than stock specs in order to break them in>?

They probably set them a little wide so they van settle. As long as you drive normaly you wont have a problem, don't use it as a race car.

 

[destin]

They probably set them a little wide so they van settle. As long as you drive normaly you wont have a problem, don't use it as a race car.

coool

yeah I drive like an old man

 

[destin]

i sprayed the s*** out of the manifold on a cold atart and found no vacuum leaks, so it is prolly jsut the engine running rough because as others have said the gas atomizes crappy until warm

Will drop my LCNW and see what they say about the valves, and weather or not to worry about them being to tight and burning out etc, they adjusted them so they should know for sure

Thanks guys