VICTORY ROOF RACK/Quick roof rack question (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 28, 2022
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Location
Robbins, North Carolina
Should i leave these tabs or just bolt straight on? The lx470 2 out of the 3 mounting points are "blind" aka under the oem drip rail cover. The oem rack has these metal tabs on the mounting points. For the rail guess I will rig this up for now but end up buying a landcruiser drip rail cover as they use the "forward" mounts.

THANK YOU TO WHOMEVER FIXED THIS FOR ME!

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What type of rack are you mounting up there? I have the Rhino Rack setup and I took the tabs off. I'd assume that you could go either way as long as all were the same.
 
It's a victory and I'm NOT impressed. Fitment is trash and I may have even been sent an incorrect part which attributes to that. Spent the better part of yesterday on it. About to go back at it and I'm wishing I'd have bought a prinsu at this point.

Pulling the tabs as there are only 8 anyways and every other video from other manufacturers I've watched they have pulled them
 
Keep the tabs. They act as washers/gaskets and help to stop water from getting inside.
 
Going to need to keep the tabs regardless as the rack sits too low without them. Will also need to add additional shims/spacers it seems. Once again, I'm NOT happy with this rack.

First, instructions are trash. Nothing is clearly defined. They have a "video" which is for a gx....with a "break" for 100 series "differences".

I'll update this thread when I get it sorted out.
 
Good luck with the fitment. I have the Victory Molle panel for the rear window and it's been great but I've heard mixed reviews on their other stuff.

As for the tabs, best to leave them out if possible. They are steel and not compressible so they don't act as any type of gasket. It also adds another leak point as you now have two seams (truck - tab - rack) versus one seam (truck - rack) for water to leak in from.
 
Good luck with the fitment. I have the Victory Molle panel for the rear window and it's been great but I've heard mixed reviews on their other stuff.

As for the tabs, best to leave them out if possible. They are steel and not compressible so they don't act as any type of gasket. It also adds another leak point as you now have two seams (truck - tab - rack) versus one seam (truck - rack) for water to leak in from.

No way this thing is going to fit without them unfortunately

Have the tabs mounted and silicone applied. Next thing to figure out is why the passenger side rear mount is 1/4" off. Probably will come down to widening the hole.

If anybody reading this could take me a couple pictures I'd appreciate it.

I need the front deflector up close of how you have it mounted as well as the rear deflector and how close it is to the roofline.
 
Hate hearing about the fit issues. That rack was on my (very) short list. I ended up getting the Bowfin - which fit as well as the factory rack that came off. If you decide to return it, or other guys who are looking at the "prinsu style" racks, take a look at the Bowfin. As a bonus, Patrick is great to work with.

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Not much today besides what I did this morning.

Decided to pull the front for my ironman bumper and flush the ahc/replace the globes.

Alot less cursing today for sure
 
As for the tabs, best to leave them out if possible. They are steel and not compressible so they don't act as any type of gasket. It also adds another leak point as you now have two seams (truck - tab - rack) versus one seam (truck - rack) for water to leak in from.
On my European HDJ100 they are a different shape - one single piece per pair of holes and have a black rubberised coating, similar in appearance to the ones in the first post. They definitely compress. It's a stack of 3 or 4 glued on top of each other.
I teared the coating on one while figuring what is the purpose of the entire thing.

But maybe the US ones are different.

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@Moridinbg those are the tabs my '06 U.S. spec has. Maybe it's a year thing.
 
Mine didn't have the dogbones, one tab per hole. I think I may have it mostly licked, ill update tomorrow.

Also going to order a set of LC drip edge covers. No way I cut these up will look good.
 
Update.....finally got it bolted down. Took lots of tweaking and loosened all the cross bars to barely on. I'll take pictures and post them when I have time Thursday at work.

Want to know why the fitment sucked so bad?????? The V that is Lazer cut in the front fairing is on the DRIVER SIDE on mine. Every other example I've found no matter the make or model is on the passenger side. This really kept me scratching my head for HOURS. There are NO HD close up pics of this rack, I will fix that for others.

The rack had to be pushed and pulled to line up the holes to bolt it to the body. How I would do it differently? I'd install it like a prinsu rack and bolt the body mounts, then each side to that....crossbars next, then fairings.

The rear fairing is a fraction of an inch off the body in the back. If I were Victory I'd start the adjustment on the body mounts at the highest setting, then go up, same with rear fairing. There isn't much room for "lowering " which makes it not adjustable as the highest setting is the lowest setting if that makes sense.

Overall, I'd give the quality 9/10 (maybe my fairing is a Friday unit), hardware 10/10 (love the stainless), adjustability 3/10(the crossbar adjustability is nice), durability will come with time, looks 8/10, instructions 1/10, video 0/10 (a gx is not a lx or lc)
 
On my European HDJ100 they are a different shape - one single piece per pair of holes and have a black rubberised coating, similar in appearance to the ones in the first post. They definitely compress. It's a stack of 3 or 4 glued on top of each other.
I teared the coating on one while figuring what is the purpose of the entire thing.

But maybe the US ones are different.
Something like that would definitely help seal it up some. Now that I think about it, I recall seeing some of those when I removed mine. Or maybe I've looked at too many rack install pictures before, during, and after mine that they are all mixed up in my head. Either way, rubberized dogbones would help seal up the holes while the metal tabs would not, making us both correct. :cheers:
 
It is frustrating and counterintuitive - the hard works is done: design, R&D, redesign, building a rack (or bumper, skid plate, etc.) for a truck. Why not take it over the finish line? 10 minutes taking pictures and 15 minutes writing some copy - just posted to the website. I wonder if, after all that design and redesign, the assembly and installation seems so straightforward that the guys forget, for the their customers, this will be attempt #1.
 
It is frustrating and counterintuitive - the hard works is done: design, R&D, redesign, building a rack (or bumper, skid plate, etc.) for a truck. Why not take it over the finish line? 10 minutes taking pictures and 15 minutes writing some copy - just posted to the website. I wonder if, after all that design and redesign, the assembly and installation seems so straightforward that the guys forget, for the their customers, this will be attempt #1.

Something like my ironman bumper that's the project for the day. It literally has a number and step by step play for what to do. VERY refreshing after the 2 days of beating my head against a wall.

Yes....pictures are worth a thousand words. A simple up close picture would have saved me HOURS with this rack.

They spent a good amount of time and money on these but couldn't put any high quality videos or pictures up. It was just as frustrating trying to figure out which way the brackets went for body mounting.
 

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