"vauge" steering

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Jul 28, 2004
Medford, Oregon
Hello all,
This past weekend I bought some new wheels for my FJ40. On the way home I had serious DW from the left front tire. My 40 has a saginaw power steering conversion. I never had DW until I got the new wheels but always had "vauge" steering which I believe is from a castor problem. I searched and pretty much know about DW, I already planned on rebuilding the knuckles anyways. I aired down the tires a little hoping it might get rid of DW. Anyways my question is why do I have DW now (after new wheels) and not before. Also to correct castor I noticed tha PO had put shimms between springs and axels but I think there in backwards, does the fat end of the shim go towards the front of the vehicle or the rear.
Thanks for all the help
You'll get more wander with wider tires. Did that happen?
PabloCruise said:
On the front axle, fat end towards the front sill increase your castor angle.

True for SUA.

For SOA, fat end toward the rear wil increase your caster angle.

Maybe you already knew what secretagent was running but I didn't see where he said SOA or SUA.
miker said:
True for SUA.

For SOA, fat end toward the rear wil increase your caster angle.

Maybe you already knew what secretagent was running but I didn't see where he said SOA or SUA.

You are correct sir!

I have no idea what he is running, just trying to get the relevant info out on the table...
Sorry, my Fj40 is SUA with a crappy rancho 2" lift, spring reversal and 35" tires. I have the same tires as before, only new wheels and I have death wobble. I've always had what I call 'vauge' steering. Which I have learned is from little or no castor angle. The steering wheel doesn't return to center after making a turn. I'm guessing the shims are in backwards or I need more of an angle. Thanks again for all your help.
I'd get the wheels balanced.
I am wondering if there is something wrong with the rims / not on all the way or warped. Also the tires could have not been rotated right.
That does sound like castor, however new wheels shouldn't throw off castor.

Start by breaking the torque on all the lug nuts, then retorqueing in a proper pattern. It's a long shot but it it's easy and free. The guy that put your tires on probably doesn't like his job, or care if they are torqued properly. Also check all the nuts and bolts in your front suspension while you are at it.

Are the wheels rubbing on anything? Calipers?

Got a wheel weight hitting something on the inboard side?

Are they the same width and back spacing as the old wheels?
Maybe switch front to rear and test drive, see if that changes anything.
Not sure if you have drum or disc brakes but one problem I ran into when changing wheels on drum brakes was that the drum retention bolt would interfere with the wheel seating to the drum. Factory wheels would clear fine but many aftermarket wheels would not. Solution was to just remove the bolt. Symptom was the wheel wobbling and it looks as if the wheel is bent when it rotates.
yeah, what miker said, when I bought my swampers they came on wagon wheels, and were severely wobbly! took them in and got them balanced, didn't do squat, then realized that because of the (drum retention) bolt they weren't seating in flat aginst the drum. the stock wheels have recesses which leave room for the bolt head, but a lot of aftermarket wheels are flat on the back, so it's a problem

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