valves
- Thread starter jer1
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There is a special tool, but I've heard you can do it without. You have to remove and replace shims, and it's a pain I guess... There is a link to a 93 FSM in the FAQ thread that will lay out the procedure for you. I don't know how you buy the shims, but I would guess it's a variety pack sort of thing.
I've done it about 4-5 times now. It's a pain, that's all there is to it.
Yeah, there is a special tool that you can get for compressing the valve springs so you can get the shim out, it is kinda a curved fork looking thing, but I don't have one. I usualy use a pair of prybars on each side of the cam, you need 2 people. One person stands over the engine and pushes down with the prybars to compress the valve, then the other fishes out the shim with a thin screwdriver and a magnet tool. The shim sits in a "bucket" that fills with oil, so it can be tough to get it out.
What you do is check the valve clearance with a feeler gauge, and if it's out of spec you pop out the shim and mic it. Then there is a table in the FSM that shows you which thickness shim to put back in so the clearance is correct. The math is not that hard. What I usually do is lay out the shims on a big piece of paper (an old egg carton is also really handy for this), all labeled, and write everything down on a tablet of paper, then tablulate which shims I need and take a trip to the dealer. They sell them individually, they usualy have them in a tackle box sort of thing.
Then you put them back in and pray that you bought the correct ones.
Told ya it was a pain.
Yeah, there is a special tool that you can get for compressing the valve springs so you can get the shim out, it is kinda a curved fork looking thing, but I don't have one. I usualy use a pair of prybars on each side of the cam, you need 2 people. One person stands over the engine and pushes down with the prybars to compress the valve, then the other fishes out the shim with a thin screwdriver and a magnet tool. The shim sits in a "bucket" that fills with oil, so it can be tough to get it out.
What you do is check the valve clearance with a feeler gauge, and if it's out of spec you pop out the shim and mic it. Then there is a table in the FSM that shows you which thickness shim to put back in so the clearance is correct. The math is not that hard. What I usually do is lay out the shims on a big piece of paper (an old egg carton is also really handy for this), all labeled, and write everything down on a tablet of paper, then tablulate which shims I need and take a trip to the dealer. They sell them individually, they usualy have them in a tackle box sort of thing.
Then you put them back in and pray that you bought the correct ones.
Told ya it was a pain.
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