Hi; I am pulling my valve cover for a reseal; do you guys pull the throttle body when you do the valve cover or go around it somehow?
Thanks
Thanks
Valve cover; pull intake?
- Thread starter Adventure208
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pull the throttle body, its way easier to do it that way. while the valve cover is out its a good time to replace the pcv valve and valve gromet and do the spark plug tube seals as well
And while the TB is off you can clean every orifice/port and replace the coolant bypass hose that runs from the underside of the TB to the left side of head.
Also a good time to replace the accelerator cable (or repair using long sections of adhesive lined heat flexible 3M 3:1 shrink tubing (assuming the cable inside the housing isn't sticking).
And if your EGR system is still functioning replace all the small 3.5mm vacuum hoses on top (Toyota sells it in 1 meter sections and longer).
Also a good time to replace the accelerator cable (or repair using long sections of adhesive lined heat flexible 3M 3:1 shrink tubing (assuming the cable inside the housing isn't sticking).
And if your EGR system is still functioning replace all the small 3.5mm vacuum hoses on top (Toyota sells it in 1 meter sections and longer).
I'm in the middle of this now. Pull the throttle body. Also pull the intake and do firewall heater hoses if you haven't.
Cleaning ports now, these two are plugged solid. I've got a carb cleaning rod about 1/2" in and it bottoms out. I can't pass air through either. Any tips? Should they flow air? Thanks!
For the valve cover, I would pull intake tube, pull throttle body, clean it. I leave the heater body attached, I have deleted the rear heater. Move the egr valves out of the way, pull vacuum linesI then attach a buggie to move the heater hose up out of the way. I use the pictured socket for the rear corner bolt on valve cover.
When installing the new seal use oem, watch the back when laying it back down that it doesn’t poke back out. Clean out the channel that the seal sits in, if using oem it will go into place and has liittle groves to help keep it in place, if worried use a little fipg for oil to tack it in place. The bolts are very low torque, I use 1/4 drive ratchet as they are easy to break.
When installing the new seal use oem, watch the back when laying it back down that it doesn’t poke back out. Clean out the channel that the seal sits in, if using oem it will go into place and has liittle groves to help keep it in place, if worried use a little fipg for oil to tack it in place. The bolts are very low torque, I use 1/4 drive ratchet as they are easy to break.
Another option, pick up a tube of dielectric grease, can be spread onto the valve cover gasket to help hold it in place but also may prolong it's life a bit. I use some of the same on the spark plug tube seals before installing them.
You can also remove both the EGR valve and the EGR temp sensor (if your model has one on the intake), that will allow you to better clean out the EGR (gas) tunnel that runs inside the upper intake to over by the Throttle Body where it dumps out gas and soot; that internal tunnel can become completely clogged with carbon. If you're in a location doesn't check for an intact EGR system some people have disabled and/or blocked off the EGR valve/pipes ie: so all that soot isn't blown into the intake.
Already mentioned by ajax1 above ie: using a small 1/4" drive ratchet: the valve cover has small tabs or nibs on the bottom that prevent the gasket from being overcompressed, when tightening the (13) bolts go slow and stop if/when you hit a wall, that means the valve cover has bottomed out, any more torque and you can snap off the bolts.
You can also remove both the EGR valve and the EGR temp sensor (if your model has one on the intake), that will allow you to better clean out the EGR (gas) tunnel that runs inside the upper intake to over by the Throttle Body where it dumps out gas and soot; that internal tunnel can become completely clogged with carbon. If you're in a location doesn't check for an intact EGR system some people have disabled and/or blocked off the EGR valve/pipes ie: so all that soot isn't blown into the intake.
Already mentioned by ajax1 above ie: using a small 1/4" drive ratchet: the valve cover has small tabs or nibs on the bottom that prevent the gasket from being overcompressed, when tightening the (13) bolts go slow and stop if/when you hit a wall, that means the valve cover has bottomed out, any more torque and you can snap off the bolts.