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just rolled 5000 miles on the conversion. cleaned up the wiring in the cab. pulled the dash out twice because i forgot to run a wire .... twice. no more ghetto wires hanging out of the glove box. im not sure how others tucked the computer back there, but i could not make it fit without pinching the wires. I ended up taking a few inches out of the glove box "pouch" to give the ecu terminals some breathing room.

moved the obd port. now using the stock obd diagnostic port.

tachometer signal hooked up. used a signal modifier.

cruse control hooked up and working. i kept the 80 cruise stalk and replaced the resistors. Not a fun job, but it looks factory.

had the inner axle seal leak again. have a new axle shaft coming as the old one was worn badly.

still looking to replace the a/c lines.

down to the home stretch..... . . . almost done!!!

cheers, jason
 
just rolled 5000 miles on the conversion. cleaned up the wiring in the cab. pulled the dash out twice because i forgot to run a wire .... twice. no more ghetto wires hanging out of the glove box. im not sure how others tucked the computer back there, but i could not make it fit without pinching the wires. I ended up taking a few inches out of the glove box "pouch" to give the ecu terminals some breathing room.

moved the obd port. now using the stock obd diagnostic port.

tachometer signal hooked up. used a signal modifier.

cruse control hooked up and working. i kept the 80 cruise stalk and replaced the resistors. Not a fun job, but it looks factory.

had the inner axle seal leak again. have a new axle shaft coming as the old one was worn badly.

still looking to replace the a/c lines.

down to the home stretch..... . . . almost done!!!

cheers, jason
Holy sh1t man ! 5k miles already ? you must have a hell of a commute. I drive the hell out of mine and I only have around 12k on mine but ive been driving it for 11 months.

Which signal modifier did you use for the tach ? I used the dakota digital and love it. Also used thier speedo calibrator.

Getting ready to hook up the cruise in mine and also do the AC lines.
 
Holy sh1t man ! 5k miles already ? you must have a **** of a commute. I drive the **** out of mine and I only have around 12k on mine but ive been driving it for 11 months.

Which signal modifier did you use for the tach ? I used the dakota digital and love it. Also used thier speedo calibrator.

Getting ready to hook up the cruise in mine and also do the AC lines.

yes, i drive roughly 30-40k / yr.

I used the dakota one. It read REALLY low until I set the signal to 4cyl. Did you have that problem?

If your interested, I have some spare resistors i can label and send you. Could even send my diagram. (You certainly saved my skin with the transmission!!!) Could not find the exact resistors needed (they were ~50ohm off) but they worked perfectly when I checked voltage. Dont forget to hook up the ST1-.

Cheers, Jason
 
yes, i drive roughly 30-40k / yr.

I used the dakota one. It read REALLY low until I set the signal to 4cyl. Did you have that problem?

If your interested, I have some spare resistors i can label and send you. Could even send my diagram. (You certainly saved my skin with the transmission!!!) Could not find the exact resistors needed (they were ~50ohm off) but they worked perfectly when I checked voltage. Dont forget to hook up the ST1-.

Cheers, Jason
Yup same deal. Had to set it at 4cyl to make it work. Do you have any problem with the needle jumping around ? Every once in a while, ill get a "glitch" and the needle will jump or drop.
Im having the same problem with my speedo now too, it bounces back and forth about .5mph just a little wobble of the needle as it rises and falls. I think I may need to go to a dedicated +12v source.

I sent you an email about the cruise.
 
vvt-I

I have been debating a non DBW 00-04 4.7 V8 swap agianst a 05-05 VVT-I/A750F swap. One question for those that have worked on these:

1. Why is the Toyota DBW 05-06 set up any more difficult from a wiriing stand point than a Chevy LS/LQ dbw swap. Seems like plenty do the chevy swaps and the wiring never seems to come up as an issue complicating the swap.

2. Seems to me reworking the 4speed trans for the LC swap from an 00-04 tundra is more complex than the wiring?

From what I have found on the Ebay, 05-06 motors/Trannys aren't too much more expensive than the 00-04 motor trannys. And the A750F bolts right up the HF2A. The extra low (3.5) 1st in the A750F seems to be worth it alone. At least to me, as I think the crawl ratio in these trucks is terrible. I am in Colorado and could really use a little more control in the rocks, and power in the deep snow. Seems the only major mod to the 4.7/A750F is to swap out a 1uz V8 oil pan? All in all this swap looks cheaper to me than gettting a chevy motor (5.3 V8 or 4.2 I6) and buying adapter plates from Marks, and messing with a cast oil pan.

I had an 06 tundra and the power delivery was tremendous. Really not too far off from a 5.7 tundra. Vastly superior to 5.3 GM vehicles I have driven, which are really underwhelming and comparable to 5.4 ford V8's which are downright dissapointing. The 4.2 atlas swaps seems nice, but really only from a gas milage standpoint.

I think the replacement of my 1fz-fe (which is in great shape with 124k on it if any one needs it!) is going to come down to:
- V8 torque and power delivery can not be beat by any inline 6
- V8 song is music to my ears. I grew up in a 5.0 mustang with flowmasters and no radio. Boy do I miss it. Nothing like a singing V8.
- A750 is the only way I can see other than a whimpy GM manual tranny to improve the crawl ratio to what I am targeting at around 55:1. With 4.88s, marks low range gear and the A750F you get to a crawl ratio of 53.2:1

Most of my info is based on supperrunner's swap. What I am missing here?

Thanks for the input to all of the swappers out there. I am getting really excited to re-energize my cruiser.
 
........ Every once in a while, ill get a "glitch" and the needle will jump or drop.
.............

I too had the "glitch" jump every 10 seconds or so. I ended up changing switch #1 to "off."

1- off
2- on
3- off
4- on
cylinder count set to 4.
works flawlessly.

no problems with the speedo. still running stock rubber, so no correction needed.

email replied.

cheers, jason.

1. Why is the Toyota DBW 05-06 set up any more difficult from a wiriing stand point than a Chevy LS/LQ dbw swap. Seems like plenty do the chevy swaps and the wiring never seems to come up as an issue complicating the swap..

Ive never even seen a chevy motor. I have no clue.

2. Seems to me reworking the 4speed trans for the LC swap from an 00-04 tundra is more complex than the wiring?.

yea. well, without toojayzee giving me pointers, i could not have done it. In reality, the re-working of the a343f only took about 3 hours.

From what I have found on the Ebay, 05-06 motors/Trannys aren't too much more expensive than the 00-04 motor trannys. And the A750F bolts right up the HF2A. The extra low (3.5) 1st in the A750F seems to be worth it alone. At least to me, as I think the crawl ratio in these trucks is terrible. I am in Colorado and could really use a little more control in the rocks, and power in the deep snow. Seems the only major mod to the 4.7/A750F is to swap out a 1uz V8 oil pan? All in all this swap looks cheaper to me than gettting a chevy motor (5.3 V8 or 4.2 I6) and buying adapter plates from Marks, and messing with a cast oil pan.

Most of my info is based on supperrunner's swap. What I am missing here?

.

agreed. i was GREATLY depressed when i could not have the a750f. i desperately wanted that 5 speed. however, after driving around with the a343f for awhile, it has grown on me. its actually quite nice.

before anyone buys a motor ......caution...... there are a LOT of additional things needed. I waisted hundreds of dollars buying pig tails, evap junk, injection drivers ect. do your homework (know everything you need) before opening wallet.

Also, good luck finding an a750f for sale. last time i checked, there were only 4 available in the u.s. network. i sold my engine, trans, and all the other stuff (at a huge loss) to someone here on mud. i am very excited for him (if not a little enveous.) i am sure he will get it going and will post. i am anxiously awaiting results.

cheers, jason
 
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Comments below


1. Why is the Toyota DBW 05-06 set up any more difficult from a wiriing stand point than a Chevy LS/LQ dbw swap. Seems like plenty do the chevy swaps and the wiring never seems to come up as an issue complicating the swap. Its not more difficult, as long as you get the key and lock cyl so you can bypass the security.

2. Seems to me reworking the 4speed trans for the LC swap from an 00-04 tundra is more complex than the wiring? Neither are difficult, but the transmission was no thought at all, just labor. The wiring took a little thinking

From what I have found on the Ebay, 05-06 motors/Trannys aren't too much more expensive than the 00-04 motor trannys. And the A750F bolts right up the HF2A. The extra low (3.5) 1st in the A750F seems to be worth it alone. At least to me, as I think the crawl ratio in these trucks is terrible. I am in Colorado and could really use a little more control in the rocks, and power in the deep snow. Seems the only major mod to the 4.7/A750F is to swap out a 1uz V8 oil pan? All in all this swap looks cheaper to me than gettting a chevy motor (5.3 V8 or 4.2 I6) and buying adapter plates from Marks, and messing with a cast oil pan.
I got my 00 truck wrecked, as a whole for $1k and parted it out and made money on the deal so it made sense to me, but if I were paying more money I would do the 05+

I had an 06 tundra and the power delivery was tremendous. Really not too far off from a 5.7 tundra. Vastly superior to 5.3 GM vehicles I have driven, which are really underwhelming and comparable to 5.4 ford V8's which are downright dissapointing. The 4.2 atlas swaps seems nice, but really only from a gas milage standpoint.

I think the replacement of my 1fz-fe (which is in great shape with 124k on it if any one needs it!) is going to come down to:
- V8 torque and power delivery can not be beat by any inline 6
- V8 song is music to my ears. I grew up in a 5.0 mustang with flowmasters and no radio. Boy do I miss it. Nothing like a singing V8.
- A750 is the only way I can see other than a whimpy GM manual tranny to improve the crawl ratio to what I am targeting at around 55:1. With 4.88s, marks low range gear and the A750F you get to a crawl ratio of 53.2:1 If your set on keeping the HF2A then yes. You could just use the 00-04 A340 with a chain drive t-case and use marlin 4.7's or dual cases etc. Endless options.

Most of my info is based on supperrunner's swap. What I am missing here? Did you read some of the info in my build ?

Thanks for the input to all of the swappers out there. I am getting really excited to re-energize my cruiser.
 
1. Why is the Toyota DBW 05-06 set up any more difficult from a wiriing stand point than a Chevy LS/LQ dbw swap. Seems like plenty do the chevy swaps and the wiring never seems to come up as an issue complicating the swap. Its not more difficult, as long as you get the key and lock cyl so you can bypass the security..

no security / coded keys on the '05 tundra's..... only 06 and newer. however, the wiring is different between the standard, crew and double cabs.

there are TWICE as many electrical connectors on the vvti's with nearly twice as many interfaces. it is not for the faint of heart. I spent 3-4 months (off and on) trouble shooting my vvti conversion before i threw in the towel. The non-vvti was wired (and running and driving) in under two weeks. J
 
thanks

Thanks for the input guys.

Some comments:

Toojayze - I did read your build thread, probably 20 times. I saw those tranny parts and got scared. I agree there are options to get a good crawl ratio out there with different cases, but between the cost of a marks adapter case, a marlin, and the fact that I would have to hack up the shifter console....I just couldn't get the wife to buy into a 4k transfer case swap and a 4-5k engine swap.

I don't think there is a real significant power difference between VVTI and non. I have driven both and been impressed in Tundras that had a similar weight to my 80. Now the difference between a 4 speed and a 5 speed I have been very impressed by. It gets you so much closer to the driving experience of a manual in terms of engine rpm control.

Jason - Thanks for the input on pig tails connectors ect. I am really shopping for a wrecker to buy and strip then sell some parts off. Same as Twojayzee did. I figure between selling a few parts from the wrecker and selling my 1fzfe this shouldn't cost me too much. Either that or a yard that will understand my goal and give me a day to pull the engine, tranny, gas pedal, ecu, tcu, wiring ect, ect, ect, ect.

Any one here think I am making a mistake going with option number one as a first time engine swapper? I can build a 60,000 sf commercial building, a 4link suspension, set up a dif, rebuild a manual tranny, an engine....I see the toughest part of this as hanging the engine in the air and taking measurements to fab up mounts, and then getting them right so I don't have a clearance issue when I bolt it up?

thanks again.
 
info

found a pretty good "simple" VVT-I 2uzfe engine control description on tundra solutions. I don't have a link, but I downloaded the pdf. If any one is interested PM me and I'll email it out.
 
Currently 10 plus A750F trannys on ebay for for about 1500 and down.

Not bad?

I think twojayzee got the best deal around.

well, your looking at the wrong a750f.

the a750f has been used in A LOT of vehicles. however, you need the 5 speed that goes in the cruiser...... the tundra, gx, 4runner, gm a750f has the wrong output shaft and will not work with the stock 80 transfer. j
 
Toojayze - I did read your build thread, probably 20 times. I saw those tranny parts and got scared. I agree there are options to get a good crawl ratio out there with different cases, but between the cost of a marks adapter case, a marlin, and the fact that I would have to hack up the shifter console....I just couldn't get the wife to buy into a 4k transfer case swap and a 4-5k engine swap. The adapter im talking about is like 350bux from marlin to take a stock tundra transmission and bolt a stock gear drive tcase up to it. 2000-2004 2UZ-FE 4.7-liter V8 drivetrains | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
The some 4.7 gears for 450 4.70:1 XD Gear Kit | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Having an automatic, I dont find the need for the low gears nearly as much. I think things work VERY well the way they sit. But that would be a fairly inexpensive way to go, as long as you arent heavy with the skinny pedal. The v8 torque with low gears = trail carnage.
You'll surely recoup some of the costs by selling some of your low milage cruiser parts. You could even remote mount the linkage if your savy. I did that in my fiveota, using heim joints.

... Any one here think I am making a mistake going with option number one as a first time engine swapper? I can build a 60,000 sf commercial building, a 4link suspension, set up a dif, rebuild a manual tranny, an engine....I see the toughest part of this as hanging the engine in the air and taking measurements to fab up mounts, and then getting them right so I don't have a clearance issue when I bolt it up?

thanks again

This should be a cake walk if you can do all of that stuff. Similar background to mine, except I just the PM for the construction. :D

Oh and like Jason said, the A750f is the stock toyota trans that you would want.
 
A750F

I didn't search for A750f on ebay parts just tundra under transmission. Any A750F out of a Tundra, LC/470 4runner or GX470 should work right? I plan to buy a motor and trans out of a tundra so I don't miss anything that only works on one of the other vehicles like HDC or some other electronic gizmo.

I have never swaped an engine, but it seems to me the wiring bit is just finding all the bits that need to be hooked up, finding a way to get all those wires to the ecu location, plugging, and then finding a way to plug in parts that the new ECU needs that were not signals from engine or trans that were swapped in. and finding a way to get that engine and trans to talk to other things, like speedo, gauges, and any other parts that used to get info from the old engine?

In simple terms. I try to break complex things into simple man's language so I can understand
Thanks.
 
I didn't search for A750f on ebay parts just tundra under transmission. Any A750F out of a Tundra, LC/470 4runner or GX470 should work right? I plan to buy a motor and trans out of a tundra so I don't miss anything that only works on one of the other vehicles like HDC or some other electronic gizmo.

I have never swaped an engine, but it seems to me the wiring bit is just finding all the bits that need to be hooked up, finding a way to get all those wires to the ecu location, plugging, and then finding a way to plug in parts that the new ECU needs that were not signals from engine or trans that were swapped in. and finding a way to get that engine and trans to talk to other things, like speedo, gauges, and any other parts that used to get info from the old engine?

In simple terms. I try to break complex things into simple man's language so I can understand
Thanks.
The speedo should work because its read off the transfer case.
I used the dakota digital speedo calibrator just to get an accurate reading.
Also used the dakota digital tach driver to get the tach working.
Used the FJ oil sender to get that signal. Its been a while but I think those were the only ones that didnt work.
I think I mentioned some of the other misc items that may need to happen to make the swap work. Im going to try and update my post with pix of the exhaust and some other things ive done.
 
...... Any A750F out of a Tundra, LC/470 4runner or GX470 should work right? I......Thanks.

no.

vvti 2uz motor wants the a750f. the only a750f i found to fit the 80 transfer case is the a750f (5speed) out of a 100.

non-vvti can use the a343f (4speed) out of a 100.

non-vvti tundras used the a340 (4speed.)

vvti tundras / 4runners used the a750, but will not work with the 80 transfer.

If you are dead set on using the vvti / a750, i think your stuck. like i said earlier....... i only know of 4 available in the u.s. network.

cheers, jason



EDIT: see pic

from left to right.
97 cruiser a343f transmission and transfer case. (uses tv line for pressure.)
04 tundra a340f transmission and transfer case. (note tail shaft, transfer and drive shaft outputs.)
(the a750f out of the tundra is nearly identical to the a340 with regards to transfer case.)
cruiser a750f transmission. (note tail shaft, tranfer as compared to the a343f.... identical.)


EDIT AGAIN:

Toojayzee -

are you saying that the adaper from marlin will allow a tundra (a340) transmission to be connected to the fjz80 transfer case?
http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/t/c-adapters/2000-2004-2uz-fe-47-liter-v8-drivetrains
THAT would have been really slick!!!! I could have saved a bunch of time, money and agrivation!

DSC_6178.jpg
 
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Toojayzee -

are you saying that the adaper from marlin will allow a tundra (a340) transmission to be connected to the fjz80 transfer case?
2000-2004 2UZ-FE 4.7-liter V8 drivetrains | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
THAT would have been really slick!!!! I could have saved a bunch of time, money and agrivation!




Negative. Just that you could use a gear drive case out of a p/u.
That way he would have more gearing options with 4.7's or dual case or whatever combo he wanted.
Otherwise I would have done that too, if it bolted up to the FJ t-case
 
Nice E30. Still like the E46 platform best. Bigger cup holders with squishy steering wheel and all.
I still believe the 80 is the best built vehicle I have owned. -factory, maybe not your garage. Nice work!
 
bmw

Jason,

You seem to be a BMW guy. I am going to look at some seats out of an X5 for my cruiser (easiest way to clean up leather and get heat is swap!) that has a 4.4 V8 and trans available. Think this thing would make it in there? I have to imagine this is preferable to a toyota of GM V8! Are these more electronically complex than the Toyotas? Any immediate red flags?
 
Nice E30. Still like the E46 platform best. Bigger cup holders with squishy steering wheel and all.
I still believe the 80 is the best built vehicle I have owned. -factory, maybe not your garage. Nice work!

thanks.
got one of each. 330ci, 80, e30m. e46 is a nice daily platform. but NOT a track toy. J

Jason,
You seem to be a BMW guy. I am going to look at some seats out of an X5 for my cruiser (easiest way to clean up leather and get heat is swap!) that has a 4.4 V8 and trans available. Think this thing would make it in there? I have to imagine this is preferable to a toyota of GM V8! Are these more electronically complex than the Toyotas? Any immediate red flags?

no yellow flags (caution)
no red flags (stop)
but one BIG black flag. (come directly to the grid for doing something stupid or dangerous.)

this would make the 2uz swap look like a lego set. the wiring would be tougher than re-wiring lousiana after katrina.

in all honesty, do something that has been done before. if this is your first motor swap, dont go blazing new territory. It will only end in regret. besides, the bmw v8's are not that great.

j
 
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