UZJ100 Worn Steering Rack or Inner Tie Rod End play? Something's not right (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 13, 2011
Threads
40
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240
Location
Austin, TX
Website
activthrust.com
2002 UZJ100

Over 250,000 miles

I've been feeling torque steer when I accelerate or decelerate. If I make a hard turn to the left at slow speed that it lopes as if a tire is flat. I lifted each front tire off the ground and did the top/bottom and left/right grab and found a disturbing amount of play on the horizontal axis. On the right side there was a slight bit of bearing play vertically, which I'm not surprised by because I replaced the brakes and bearings completely.

When accelerating, I have some sense of wobble till the tires come up to balance. There is a slight pull to the right with moderate warped brake symptoms—again after new rotors 2 years ago.
 
That’s Inner TRE slop.

But if on original rack after +250k, then there’s prob also play inside the rack.
 
Look at the mounts when your doing that. More than likely a lot of movement there too.
 
Like junkcrzr said, thats your inner tie rod because of the metallic sound. If it was only the bushing, there wouldnt be a clanking sound because the bushing still has rubber to prevent metal on metal clank sound.
 
All responses here know far more than I, but I will add that I had both inner and outer tie rods replaced recently to correct steering play (in highsight wish I just had the full rack done given the inners come with)...but along the way the second axle nut on one side was not put back on by the mechanic (only one of them - I did not know there were two) and I had a lot of movement similiar to that shown in your video. A second shop figured that out and it's running straight now.
 
2002 UZJ100

Over 250,000 miles

I've been feeling torque steer when I accelerate or decelerate. If I make a hard turn to the left at slow speed that it lopes as if a tire is flat. I lifted each front tire off the ground and did the top/bottom and left/right grab and found a disturbing amount of play on the horizontal axis. On the right side there was a slight bit of bearing play vertically, which I'm not surprised by because I replaced the brakes and bearings completely.

When accelerating, I have some sense of wobble till the tires come up to balance. There is a slight pull to the right with moderate warped brake symptoms—again after new rotors 2 years ago.


Hey
All responses here know far more than I, but I will add that I had both inner and outer tie rods replaced recently to correct steering play (in highsight wish I just had the full rack done given the inners come with)...but along the way the second axle nut on one side was not put back on by the mechanic (only one of them - I did not know there were two) and I had a lot of movement similiar to that shown in your video. A second shop figured that out and it's running straight now.

First, overwhelmed by the responses so quickly, so thanks to each of you. I thought I smoked another set of rotors but in light of the play, I think see how the shudder is affecting everything. Sure have had a lot of fun with the IFS over the last couple of years. My heavy duty job mechanics mentioned the bushings on the rack last year. I am concerned about the aftermarket inner ball joints being short...has there been a consensus on the best ones to use? Has anyone who has done the full rack experience found a solid source? I'm in Austin, Texas fyi.
 
555 sankei inner tie rods work great. Usually repackaged up as Acdelco/moog. But if you really want to cry once and then forget about it for the next 200k, just get a new rack.
 
Hey


First, overwhelmed by the responses so quickly, so thanks to each of you. I thought I smoked another set of rotors but in light of the play, I think see how the shudder is affecting everything. Sure have had a lot of fun with the IFS over the last couple of years. My heavy duty job mechanics mentioned the bushings on the rack last year. I am concerned about the aftermarket inner ball joints being short...has there been a consensus on the best ones to use? Has anyone who has done the full rack experience found a solid source? I'm in Austin, Texas fyi.

My mechanic said the right side inner was okay but the steering rack was moving--bushings. The driver side inner TRE is definitely bad. Don't get the pricing on these TRE's from $5.00 for 4 to $185 for 1? Or just buy a new complete rack for $150 or factory OEM $454.00
 
I just replaced passenger side inner/outer tie rod. I used Pro-forged - very heavy duty part. Together $75. You could just do the inner if you're pinching pennies for $45. Takes an hour at most (and then an alignment).

You wouldn't see rack bushing issues moving the tire like that. For that you need someone to turn the wheel with the tires on the ground, while you are watching the rack. With bad bushings the rack itself would start to move before it moves the tires. There are a lot of folks running steering racks way beyond 250k. I'll bet if you look close, you will see / feel all of the movement inside the bellows, at the inner tie rod.
 
Great point. Trying to find the Pro-forged. Were they the correct dimensions?
I got them at Rockauto. I’m pretty sure Trail Tailor uses them in their builds, he may sell them as well.

Not quite sure what you mean on the dimensions. They are made for the 100/470. Don’t count threads when you put the tie rods together. Measure from fixed points on the old rods and set the new ones the same. Then you’ll at least be close before the alignment.
 
I got them at Rockauto. I’m pretty sure Trail Tailor uses them in their builds, he may sell them as well.

Not quite sure what you mean on the dimensions. They are made for the 100/470. Don’t count threads when you put the tie rods together. Measure from fixed points on the old rods and set the new ones the same. Then you’ll at least be close before the alignment.
Thank you
 
Just replaced my stock left inner and outer tie rod ends with ForgePro. They’re big! The tool sold by RockAuto DOESNT fit so, get a pipe wrench. Inner left tie rod joint was full of sand—weird. Steering wheel is a tad to the right but tracks straight. Probably need to do the right next but couldn’t find the outer right Forge Pro link. Couldn’t reuse the inner boot metal strap so nylon tie is fine for now.
 

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