UZJ100 Land Cruiser 2004 - Transmission knocking? (1 Viewer)

[FlyingDreaming]

Hey lads,

Never had any similar issues, so kinda lost here. Any suggestions? I am preparing for a long road trip, don't want transmission to submit its resignation somewhere north of Anchorage.

Land cruiser 100, 2004 JDM spec. A750F and 2UZ, 155 000km, which is not that much for 17 year old truck.

Issue: Strange knocking sound once I engage 'D' right after start up. Sounds disappears once I drive for 1-2 minutes and appears next morning. Transmission shifts smoothly, no hesitation or abrupt gear changes. I do have famous transmission clunk.

Did a lot of maintenance 5000-6000km ago, replacing:

1. Engine oil/filter
2. Heater tees/thermostat/coolant flush and replaced all hoses
3. Power steering fluid/hoses
4. Diffs / T-Case fluids (Mobil 1 LS 75W90 if I recall correctly for all 3).
5. Greased driveshafts
6. Replaced ATF with genuine Toyota WS ATF. Had some trouble with finding correct level, decided to visit the dealer, they added .7 qt and I was good to go. Fluid was brown in color before replacement, but not burned and transmission was smooth before and even smoother after the fluid change.
7. Engine + transmission bushings.

The sound:



Cheers!

Edit:
Maintenance mentioned above was done 4-5 months ago and I don't remember hearing any unusual sounds previously only until now.

 

[Sean9421]

It's hard to tell from the audio in the video, but have you ruled out this being a heat shield on the exhaust? They can make a banging noise on cold starts and then go away when the exhaust warms up. Also common for the manifolds to tick. Seems like if a noise like that was coming from the trans, you would feel it in motion, or it would show other symptoms. If you have access to a lift, I'd put it up in the air and stand under it on a cold start to pinpoint it, don't lay under the truck when it's in drive on the ground though.

 

[FlyingDreaming]

It's hard to tell from the audio in the video, but have you ruled out this being a heat shield on the exhaust? They can make a banging noise on cold starts and then go away when the exhaust warms up. Also common for the manifolds to tick. Seems like if a noise like that was coming from the trans, you would feel it in motion, or it would show other symptoms. If you have access to a lift, I'd put it up in the air and stand under it on a cold start to pinpoint it, don't lay under the truck when it's in drive on the ground though.

Good points, thank you.

I've seen manifold tick issues on Tundras 4.7, it is more high pitched sound. After I did a bit more research, I agree with you that if something would've been wrong with trans, it would have additional symptoms. May be piston slap?

 

[2001LC]

Sound more like rod knock/piston slap, than torque converter or transmission. Which is more common is Tundra & Sequoia USA made, than JMD. Any chance engine has been replaced, is VIn # on BK 2 head.

If oil not changed in last 5k miles, try that using Toyota oil filter. See if any improvement.


BTW: Is that Japanese made for CA market "right hand drive"?

 

[FlyingDreaming]

Sound more like rod knock/piston slap, than torque converter or transmission. Which is more common is Tundra & Sequoia USA made, than JMD. Any chance engine has been replaced, is VIn # on BK 2 head.

If oil not changed in last 5k miles, try that using Toyota oil filter. See if any improvement.


BTW: Is that Japanese made for CA market "right hand drive"?

Oh hey man! I did all my maintenance based on your tutorials. Thank you, those were extremely useful.

The car is pure JDM right hand drive, I bought in on the USS auction in Yokohama and imported it myself into Canada. LC hasn't been officially sold in Canada and there is no market for RDH cars.

When I was replacing ATF, diff fluids and engine oil, everything was pitch black, so I assume that maintenance hasn't been great. But hey, what could happen to legendary 2UZ within 100k miles, I thought.
The only possible engine replacement could've happened in Japan and I can hardly imagine that someone installed US made 2UZ there. Was unable to find VIN # on the engine.

I used 5W30 M1 full synthetic oil with OEM filter 3500 miles ago, so I replaced oil and filter yesterday with same oil and OEM filter. Oil was very black.
No improvement in sounds. Same intensity, and as usual, goes away in 2-3 minutes.

 

[2001LC]

I find many 100 series, knock first ~5 to 10 seconds after cold start-up. More so if they've sat a few days or weeks. But 3 minutes is a long time. I would think it would knock all the time, just not as loud after warm up. Which is very common in the Tundra & Sequoia USA made. But I do hear in 100 series, just not as common or prolific.

Black oil after 3,500 is not good, but darkened is normal. This may indicate heavily gunked engine. Which often times, the oil fill cap underside and inside oil fill tube show signs of excessive gunk build up.


Oil turning black very fast is indication of gunked up engine. Could be, you've an oil pressure issue.

A oil pressure test may be revealing. This would be with a gauge hooked into oil sending units port (remove oil sending unit). At cold start, during and after warm up would best for your case!

Toyota parts department guys, "claims" their oil filter has a valve that helps with cold start up oil delivery. So keep using OEM filter for now. Replace oil again as you see it darken. Do this a few time, to help clean gunk out. Then once you see fresh oil not darkening so fast. Use a chemical oil flush. BG EPR (2 cans for the 2UZ) is what I, local Toyota/Lexus Dealership and most shops in my area use. But BG EPR recommends; not using in a heavily gunked-up engine. As it may dislodge to much gunk at one time. That's why you need to run the Mobil 1 repeatedly for awhile. As mobil 1, is also cleaning your engine.

Basily not changing oil regularly and especially when cheap oil used. Gunk builds up internally. Oil filters are designed for ~5K miles use. Except special filter like Mobil one EP, which are good for 20K miles. Old oil & filters, are hard on oil pump and main & rod bearings particular. A drop in oil pressure can be from gunked oil pickup tube screen (not common), crankshaft bearings (main and connecting rod bearings) due to wear (very common in most engines, but not a 2UZ properly maintained), oil pump wear (very common in most engines, but not a 2UZ properly maintained).

Other areas "poor oil change history effects", that does not affect oil pressure directly. Are the cylinder walls, piston rings, wrist pins & valve stems & guides.

Rod knock is typically between rod main bearings and wrist pin. As engine heat and oil flows, the knock goes away or reduces.

I've not heard or heard of, knocking transmission. I suppose it or torque converter could make a "knock" sound. ATF fluid should not have been black, at such a low miles (155KM). They do darken, but usually red or brownish red not black, even in higher mileage. Be advised, there is a TSB on filling transmission from 04-07. We must use a different ATF temp of 97f to 115F (36-46C). Best to read ATF temp through tech-steam as you're topping. Transmission fluid is also a good cleaner. Transmission may also benefit from a second flush, as not common to be black.

BTW: VIN # is on BK2 (right side) head in the center mass, just below head cover. A plate is riveted there. You may just see spot where it would be riveted. But I've one from CN, without VIN # and possible your JDM import did have either.

Good luck!

 

[FlyingDreaming]

I find many 100 series, knock first ~5 to 10 seconds after cold start-up. More so if they've sat a few days or weeks. But 3 minutes is a long time. I would think it would knock all the time, just not as loud after warm up. Which is very common in the Tundra & Sequoia USA made. But I do hear in 100 series, just not as common or prolific.

Black oil after 3,500 is not good, but darkened is normal. This may indicate heavily gunked engine. Which often times, the oil fill cap underside and inside oil fill tube show signs of excessive gunk build up.


Oil turning black very fast is indication of gunked up engine. Could be, you've an oil pressure issue.

A oil pressure test may be revealing. This would be with a gauge hooked into oil sending units port (remove oil sending unit). At cold start, during and after warm up would best for your case!

Toyota parts department guys, "claims" their oil filter has a valve that helps with cold start up oil delivery. So keep using OEM filter for now. Replace oil again as you see it darken. Do this a few time, to help clean gunk out. Then once you see fresh oil not darkening so fast. Use a chemical oil flush. BG EPR (2 cans for the 2UZ) is what I, local Toyota/Lexus Dealership and most shops in my area use. But BG EPR recommends; not using in a heavily gunked-up engine. As it may dislodge to much gunk at one time. That's why you need to run the Mobil 1 repeatedly for awhile. As mobil 1, is also cleaning your engine.

Basily not changing oil regularly and especially when cheap oil used. Gunk builds up internally. Oil filters are designed for ~5K miles use. Except special filter like Mobil one EP, which are good for 20K miles. Old oil & filters, are hard on oil pump and main & rod bearings particular. A drop in oil pressure can be from gunked oil pickup tube screen (not common), crankshaft bearings (main and connecting rod bearings) due to wear (very common in most engines, but not a 2UZ properly maintained), oil pump wear (very common in most engines, but not a 2UZ properly maintained).

Other areas "poor oil change history effects", that does not affect oil pressure directly. Are the cylinder walls, piston rings, wrist pins & valve stems & guides.

Rod knock is typically between rod main bearings and wrist pin. As engine heat and oil flows, the knock goes away or reduces.

I've not heard or heard of, knocking transmission. I suppose it or torque converter could make a "knock" sound. ATF fluid should not have been black, at such a low miles (155KM). They do darken, but usually red or brownish red not black, even in higher mileage. Be advised, there is a TSB on filling transmission from 04-07. We must use a different ATF temp of 97f to 115F (36-46C). Best to read ATF temp through tech-steam as you're topping. Transmission fluid is also a good cleaner. Transmission may also benefit from a second flush, as not common to be black.

BTW: VIN # is on BK2 (right side) head in the center mass, just below head cover. A plate is riveted there. You may just see spot where it would be riveted. But I've one from CN, without VIN # and possible your JDM import did have either.

Good luck!

Thanks for information, 2001LC.

I'll try everything you mentioned. Going to visit the dealer this weekend and request oil pressure test.

I measured today how long the knock lasts, cold start and gear selector is in 'D'. No knock in 'P'. Timer showed 1 min 15 sec until the sound is fully gone, so I suppose I will be warming the car up for 2 minutes minimum.

I`ll post any updates if there will be any changes.

 

[saudi]

Thanks for information, 2001LC.

I'll try everything you mentioned. Going to visit the dealer this weekend and request oil pressure test.

I measured today how long the knock lasts, cold start and gear selector is in 'D'. No knock in 'P'. Timer showed 1 min 15 sec until the sound is fully gone, so I suppose I will be warming the car up for 2 minutes minimum.

I`ll post any updates if there will be any changes.

Did you ever sort knock as I have same in a uk car

 

[FlyingDreaming]

Did you ever sort knock as I have same in a uk car

Well, sort of.

2001LC is right, that's a piston slap, which happens on some 2UZ engines. I went to a local Toyota Dealership, where we have our local Land Cruiser specialist. His response below.
I changed the oil couple times to flush the engine, used BG EPR cleaner on last change and tried 0W-40 Mobil 1 instead of 5W-30. And then cleaned MAF, throttle body, greased drive shafts and pumped up tires a bit. After these measures knock not as pronounced, but still there.

2000 km later my engine didn't throw a rod, so I suppose there is nothing to worry about.

I am still intending to do the oil pressure test, cylinder inspection and forward oil sample to Blackstone labs later this year. Just a bit busy to do everything at once. If engine goes out earlier, I'll post it here

 

[saudi]

Well, sort of.

2001LC is right, that's a piston slap, which happens on some 2UZ engines. I went to a local Toyota Dealership, where we have our local Land Cruiser specialist. His response below.
I changed the oil couple times to flush the engine, used BG EPR cleaner on last change and tried 0W-40 Mobil 1 instead of 5W-30. And then cleaned MAF, throttle body, greased drive shafts and pumped up tires a bit. After these measures knock not as pronounced, but still there.

2000 km later my engine didn't throw a rod, so I suppose there is nothing to worry about.

View attachment 2884687

I am still intending to do the oil pressure test, cylinder inspection and forward oil sample to Blackstone labs later this year. Just a bit busy to do everything at once. If engine goes out earlier, I'll post it here

Interesting I’ve done 20000 miles since I noticed noise and my garage said if it was bad it would of surfaced by now, which makes sense . Keep me informed and if I find anything I’ll do same. I have done 253000 miles so can’t complain. Sorry for delay in reply I’m in uk

 

[FlyingDreaming]

Interesting I’ve done 20000 miles since I noticed noise and my garage said if it was bad it would of surfaced by now, which makes sense . Keep me informed and if I find anything I’ll do same. I have done 253000 miles so can’t complain. Sorry for delay in reply I’m in uk

well, that’s good news for me, cause if this would’ve been serious problem, engine would’ve seized earlier just like your garage said.

 

[Eicca]

Interesting. My 2006 3UZ knocks juuuuust a bit on really cold starts. Goes away after about 20 seconds. I’m about to fill it with the fanciest Mobil1 the planet has to offer so we’ll see if that makes a difference. Doubt it’ll ever explode. The UZs just don’t die unless they’re neglected.

 

[2001LC]

Interesting. My 2006 3UZ knocks juuuuust a bit on really cold starts. Goes away after about 20 seconds. I’m about to fill it with the fanciest Mobil1 the planet has to offer so we’ll see if that makes a difference. Doubt it’ll ever explode. The UZs just don’t die unless they’re neglected.

Which Mobil 1 is that?

But please, do lets us know the outcome.

 

[Eicca]

Which Mobil 1 is that?

But please, do lets us know the outcome.

The 20,000 mile stuff. I’ll be changing it at 8k.

 

[2001LC]

The 20,000 mile stuff. I’ll be changing it at 8k.

OH! their annual protection (EP) which requires the M1 oil filter to go the 20K. good for less of 20K or 1 yr. Good stuff with it's additional modifiers, a cut above the M1 regular. I use it when a client drives more than 7K in one year, but like only annual OF&L.

You could also try BG MOA or Zmax oil additives. I've used MOA. But never the Zmax. Although I flushed one power steering, Dealership history showed they added Zmax to power steering 20K miles earlier. I was impressed at condition of fluid.

 

[Eicca]

OH! their annual protection (EP) which requires the M1 oil filter to go the 20K. good for less of 20K or 1 yr. Good stuff with it's additional modifiers, a cut above the M1 regular. I use it when a client drives more than 7K in one year, but like only annual OF&L.

You could also try BG MOA or Zmax oil additives. I've used MOA. But never the Zmax. Although I flushed one power steering, Dealership history showed they added Zmax to power steering 20K miles earlier. I was impressed at condition of fluid.

Yup, I’ve got the full 20k mile kit (filter included) and plan on changing it at exactly 1 year which will be about 8-9k miles. Should give me plenty of safety buffer, and I hear the M1 flows better in the cold than others.