*****UPDATE - I may have found source of the leak w/ new photos- break leak or master cylinder? Need advice..
- Thread starter landarcht
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Where is it originating from? Does it smell/feel like brake fluid? If you have someone press the brakes, can you see something leaking? Total crapshoot of guessing from 3 poor quality pictures.
Looks like it's coming from the master cylinder assy. Sometimes they leak from where the motor feeds into the accumulator any sometimes at the connectors for the motor. Either way , unless you're in for a lot of labor the answer is probably MC replacement. Not cheap if you hire it out.
(min $1200 for parts if you catch a sale plus labor.) Find a trusted shop to advise after a close look.
BTW, I've seen much worse pix here.
(min $1200 for parts if you catch a sale plus labor.) Find a trusted shop to advise after a close look.
BTW, I've seen much worse pix here.
- Thread starter
- #4
Below are some updated pictures if they help. Just went to my usual mechanic, he said this could be ABS unit and he's not able to do it due to programming.
Went to another reputable backup mechanic, they are one week out to even take a look. I'm in the Orlando area, so I called Cruiser Matt's, they are at least two weeks out. I'm really lost of the next step. They suggested taking it to Toyota dealership but I know how that will end up. I wiped the wheel well after I discovered it as well as inside and did not see new leaks.
I'm hoping this is a seal or gasket of sorts instead of the whole assembly which most mechanic won't touch and would replace the entire unit as a whole. It will take time for me to source it. Is there any danger of suddenly losing break? This is my daily driver. On top of that, I'm relocating in a month, so timing is not working out either if and I was hoping I can take care of this asap because it is a safety issue.
I'm about to call a mobile mechanic to see if they can diagnose first.
Any advice would be appreciated. I don't really want to give this truck up...
Went to another reputable backup mechanic, they are one week out to even take a look. I'm in the Orlando area, so I called Cruiser Matt's, they are at least two weeks out. I'm really lost of the next step. They suggested taking it to Toyota dealership but I know how that will end up. I wiped the wheel well after I discovered it as well as inside and did not see new leaks.
I'm hoping this is a seal or gasket of sorts instead of the whole assembly which most mechanic won't touch and would replace the entire unit as a whole. It will take time for me to source it. Is there any danger of suddenly losing break? This is my daily driver. On top of that, I'm relocating in a month, so timing is not working out either if and I was hoping I can take care of this asap because it is a safety issue.
I'm about to call a mobile mechanic to see if they can diagnose first.
Any advice would be appreciated. I don't really want to give this truck up...
Not sure why you'd have to give it up or what the issue with dealerships are. Sounds like you're kind of beholden to one now given your time constraints. If that is the master cylinder then yes, it is a safety concern, there's a whole sticky thread on it at the top.
- Thread starter
- #6
I don't know if it's master cylinder or not. I still drove to work. I haven't taken it to dealers yet, I assume they want to charge a diagnostic fee just to look at it. I would rather pay a mobile mechanic just to come to me and let me know what it could be before I make the next move. I may just drive it for another month and get the shipped to my destination regardless. And deal with it there.
Reputable mechanics have a wait time….
Spray everything down real well with brake cleaner and truly monitor where the leak is coming from.
...and add a UV activated dye to the brake fluid. A black light would make the leak glow like the Predator's blood. Your expectations of a a mobile mechanics diagnosis is too high here. They do oil changes and brake jobs in your driveway, and not be on the hook for "Hey can you take a look at this critical safety system on my vehicle that is out of your area of expertise, and tell me exactly what I need.......but don't fix it?".
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- #10
Perfect timing, I was about to ask what's typical way of checking for leaks. I do want to update that I have not seen any leaks since I first posted. So it basically had the sign of the leak per my photos once, so far it's been dry and level has been the same in the reservoir. I'm taking it to another mechanic that I had many years with to take a look. I'm wondering if I should do a break flush since it was done about three years ago, would it make it worse or cause it to leak again?
I stay away from mechanics.
Even in a worst case where you need to replace the whole assembly, it's a $1750 part w/o discounts, $1200 after discounts from Toyota dealers that are offered every few months. Not cheap, but it's designed to last a LONG time. It isn't a Chevy part..
An hour or 2 job, basic tools that you can get from Harbor Freight for a few bucks, some common sense and a good tutorial, easily found in this forum or YT.
But first, get 3-4 cans of brake cleaner and leave everything clean (careful with connectors and rubber pieces), mark the fluid level with a sharpie after pressing the brake pedal 40 times (ignition off) and keep an eye on it for a few days. (The level WILL change, measure only after 40 pumps IGN OFF)
If it's a definite leak, there are many ways to repair, but there's nothing more annoying than repairing something and coming back to the same area a few months later to find another issue. That's why sometimes a new assembly is the way to go, specially in something as crucial as brakes, and considering the age of our vehicles.
Good luck.
Even in a worst case where you need to replace the whole assembly, it's a $1750 part w/o discounts, $1200 after discounts from Toyota dealers that are offered every few months. Not cheap, but it's designed to last a LONG time. It isn't a Chevy part..
An hour or 2 job, basic tools that you can get from Harbor Freight for a few bucks, some common sense and a good tutorial, easily found in this forum or YT.
But first, get 3-4 cans of brake cleaner and leave everything clean (careful with connectors and rubber pieces), mark the fluid level with a sharpie after pressing the brake pedal 40 times (ignition off) and keep an eye on it for a few days. (The level WILL change, measure only after 40 pumps IGN OFF)
If it's a definite leak, there are many ways to repair, but there's nothing more annoying than repairing something and coming back to the same area a few months later to find another issue. That's why sometimes a new assembly is the way to go, specially in something as crucial as brakes, and considering the age of our vehicles.
Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #12
Ok, this has been bugging me so I got to it on my own as far as I can. I removed the flap over what appears to be the ladder frame? Some of the black coating has been stripped, I cleaned it all up and sprayed some plastidip to protect it. I cleaned the inner and outer flap and went out for some errands, maybe 15 miles at most. Then saw a bit of break fluid seeping through the flap, two photos below are one from above and one from bottom up, very slow leak, from a rubber valve like thing that's on bottom of a dark green cylinder, I'm unable to photograph it, but I can feel it with my finger when reaching down. Most of the area under the assembly is dry as shown in photo.
- Thread starter
- #13
This is what it feels like a rubber valve on bottom of this olive green cylinder, it had some break fluid when I touched it on the underside, I think this is the source of the leak and flowed down per my sketch. and made its way down to the flap. This is as far as I can go with my own finding.
Does anyone know what valve is? can it be plugged? Or is this a whole master cylinder assembly job that I need to take it to dealer?
Does anyone know what valve is? can it be plugged? Or is this a whole master cylinder assembly job that I need to take it to dealer?
Good find. Where there are two lines together inside a piece of rubber, that is just a clamp that holds the two lines together and likely has abraded. One of those lines will have to be replaced. That is very common in that brake lines almost always start to rust at a clip or a bend, or connection where there is contact.
The evidence of the paint coming off the frame means that the brake fluid has been there long enough to eat it away. Most of us here would not recommend the product like plasty dip because the water can get under the rubber coating and rust and you won’t be able to see it. The best rule of thumb is to take that back to metal. Use a rust reforming primer and then use a proper frame paint with five plus light coats to build the mils of material…trust us on this, NO RUBBER COATINGS EVER.
The evidence of the paint coming off the frame means that the brake fluid has been there long enough to eat it away. Most of us here would not recommend the product like plasty dip because the water can get under the rubber coating and rust and you won’t be able to see it. The best rule of thumb is to take that back to metal. Use a rust reforming primer and then use a proper frame paint with five plus light coats to build the mils of material…trust us on this, NO RUBBER COATINGS EVER.
- Thread starter
- #15
So are you saying that I may not have to replace the entire master assembly?
Are we able to just order those two lines and replace? I thought the source of the leak is from where I pointed out underneath that dark green cylinder, I felt it like a rubber valve/hole that's oval shaped (from feeling), almost like a n overflow by design, that's where I think it starts and drops down or by capillary action down the metal line to that rubber piece. I could be wrong, maybe like you said it is coming from the line connection points.
I'm very close to take it to the dealer and I'm certain they will just want to replace the entire assembly. But if the two lines can be replaced,!I would rather go that route.
I thought the leak only started about a week ago because I noticed the sign of fresh fluid. Not sure how long it takes to eat away the paint, so the leak must have started aw while ago. But fluid looks level is hardly noticeable as it appears to be constant normal level.
I will strip the plastic coating once this leak is fixed.
Are we able to just order those two lines and replace? I thought the source of the leak is from where I pointed out underneath that dark green cylinder, I felt it like a rubber valve/hole that's oval shaped (from feeling), almost like a n overflow by design, that's where I think it starts and drops down or by capillary action down the metal line to that rubber piece. I could be wrong, maybe like you said it is coming from the line connection points.
I'm very close to take it to the dealer and I'm certain they will just want to replace the entire assembly. But if the two lines can be replaced,!I would rather go that route.
I thought the leak only started about a week ago because I noticed the sign of fresh fluid. Not sure how long it takes to eat away the paint, so the leak must have started aw while ago. But fluid looks level is hardly noticeable as it appears to be constant normal level.
I will strip the plastic coating once this leak is fixed.
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- #16
Currently the leak is fairly minimal, will I exacerbate the leak if I were to do the pump the break pedal test due pressure? I still need the car for few days of local driving before I decide if I take it to dealership or mechanic.
correct, If the leak is from there, its just replacing a line. if its above that, then its something else. This is the importance of using brake clean and getting it spotless as the leak will appear immediately and your search will be over.
Brake fluid acts fast at eating paint so when I say awhile, anytime a brake leaks is too long.
If you remove the bolt holding that bracket (10mm?) and open the metal holder enough to slide it off the brake lines rubber protector, you'll be able to remove the rubber, and have someone apply the brakes, if the line has a tear at that spot, follow it to the respective wheel and you'll know which one to order. Toyota still sells them. Careful installation is the key here. The threads are easy to cross.