Universal ignition switch (1970 tub)

[toyotaspeed90]

Entire rig was rusty, suffice it to say nothing electrical was salvageable.

The first universal ignition switch I used didn't work.

The 2nd... it doesn't actually fit in the factory hole well. I used 2 large washers as spacers, but are continuing to move, loosen the switch trim which causes the whole unit to turn.

Before I go and buy new/different washers and weld them to the cruiser to try and make it work, I'm curious if there's a "universal" switch that people have used that fit and work well.

Old photo, but you get the idea... switch is on the left:

(On the plus side, wiring the switch so that accessories like lights don't stay on when the key is 'off' is nice to wire in)

 

[cjgoode]

Before I would weld anything, just use some silicone or Epoxy and some locktight on the threads. Much easier to undo if needed.

 

[vtgbeemer]

Most of those universal switches are about the same and I had the same problem that you are having with 2 different ones. As I recall, the inner nut that doesn't show and the nut that is on the outside of the dash neither had a good surface to "bite" the dash and prevent turning. I remember filing either the outside one or maybe both flat and even filing some notches in the inner one without having to alter the hole at all. I am still looking for a 69 switch assembly without the electrical part to put mine back stock. ( Way too purist here sometimes)

 

[tyama]

Hoya, I went they a few of the universal switches before getting a oem for earlier cruisers from cruiser corps. Hadn't had a problem since.

Regards, Ty

 

[toyotaspeed90]

I just checked cruiser corps.... it lists the dash mounted key for 9/70-72 and mine has a build date of 9/69. I'm not sure what the variance is - whether it's mounting or electrical.

Welding/modifying isn't an issue or taking away anything more than it could. Like I said... it was rusty and EVERYTHING went out the door electrical wise (and a lot of dash modification and one off tub pieces).

The issue seems to arise not when turning to ON or ACC but when turning to start (the universal switch seems to be heavy sprung at "start") so I'm also debating just a simple push button start and hiding the key elsewhere.

Thanks for the info!

 

[JohnnyC]

pics from @67azcruizr

left: E-65 .... middle: 65-69 ..... right: 70-72

the difference is the prongs in the back... would work for ya if you change the wire ends that goto the switch

 

[vtgbeemer]

My build date is 9/69 also and the prior owner was using a screwdriver to turn the electrical. Wish I could find the key portion, especially after seeing that pic.

 

[Coolerman]

Get a later switch then get the 4 pin female connector and terminals from my web site to mate with it. If you order it, specify you need 12ga terminals for the connector!