Unconventional ask for my fellow Southern Californians.

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First off, I can’t thank everyone enough for the feedback here. Will reply to everyone individually as a get a chance.

Here’s the 200 I’m looking at: 2015 Used TOYOTA Land Cruiser for Sale in San Diego, CA - Retrofit Toyota cars - FLEX Automotive - https://flexmotor.com/inventory/cvu089

Seems like a good enough deal. Going for PPI Monday morning at a cruiser specialist shop.

The 100 series is a 2006 with 200K miles. Meticulously maintained by the original owner, with full and flawless maintenance records. Recently inspected by TorFab up in Seattle and it came back squeaky clean. Asking $20K.

I don’t mind dumping some money into the 100 to sound dampen it, rig it up, etc. Same goes for the 200 I suppose.

The 200 is no doubt the more practical option, but I just love the way 100 series drive.

To answer someone’s question - I am not mechanically inclined beyond the basics and would largely rely on shops for all required work.
 
First off, I can’t thank everyone enough for the feedback here. Will reply to everyone individually as a get a chance.

Here’s the 200 I’m looking at: 2015 Used TOYOTA Land Cruiser for Sale in San Diego, CA - Retrofit Toyota cars - FLEX Automotive - https://flexmotor.com/inventory/cvu089

Seems like a good enough deal. Going for PPI Monday morning at a cruiser specialist shop.

The 100 series is a 2006 with 200K miles. Meticulously maintained by the original owner, with full and flawless maintenance records. Recently inspected by TorFab up in Seattle and it came back squeaky clean. Asking $20K.

I don’t mind dumping some money into the 100 to sound dampen it, rig it up, etc. Same goes for the 200 I suppose.

The 200 is no doubt the more practical option, but I just love the way 100 series drive.

To answer someone’s question - I am not mechanically inclined beyond the basics and would largely rely on shops for all required work.
San Diego Trux | Independent Toyota and Lexus Service and Repair - https://sdtrux.com/ is a solid choice for an SD shop
 
I don’t think you need to spend money on sound deadening, I can talk to the kids in the 3rd row on the highway, no problem. Mine’s extremely quiet, still.
 
I don’t think you need to spend money on sound deadening, I can talk to the kids in the 3rd row on the highway, no problem. Mine’s extremely quiet, still.
I agree. I don’t get it at all. Why is OP so focused on making this car as quiet as a coffin? This thing is already ridiculously quiet inside. This isn’t a 2006 Prius we are talking about here.
 
Don't know about the OP, but for anyone who enjoys music, it's just soooo much better when it's quiet.

dynamat-land-cruiser-webp.718809
 
First off, I can’t thank everyone enough for the feedback here. Will reply to everyone individually as a get a chance.

Here’s the 200 I’m looking at: 2015 Used TOYOTA Land Cruiser for Sale in San Diego, CA - Retrofit Toyota cars - FLEX Automotive - https://flexmotor.com/inventory/cvu089

Seems like a good enough deal. Going for PPI Monday morning at a cruiser specialist shop.

The 100 series is a 2006 with 200K miles. Meticulously maintained by the original owner, with full and flawless maintenance records. Recently inspected by TorFab up in Seattle and it came back squeaky clean. Asking $20K.

I don’t mind dumping some money into the 100 to sound dampen it, rig it up, etc. Same goes for the 200 I suppose.

The 200 is no doubt the more practical option, but I just love the way 100 series drive.

To answer someone’s question - I am not mechanically inclined beyond the basics and would largely rely on shops for all required work.
I would say buy the newer vehicle. I personally would recommend against buying a 20+ year old high maintenance vehicle like the 100 if you don’t plan on doing a certain amount of the work yourself. They really are constant maintenance. If you get an LX, good luck finding someone that knows anything about AHC. Here in CA labor rates vary from $220-$300 hr so something as simple and common as repacking front wheel bearings at 4-5 hours will run $1000+. In the last few months my 200k 03 I’ve replaced a transfer case switch, wheel speed sensor, rear brakes, valve cover gaskets, and a soft brake line and I barely drive it. It’s not even the money, having to bring it in every time and having an unfamiliar mechanic diagnose the problems correctly is its own frustration.
 
I would say buy the newer vehicle. I personally would recommend against buying a 20+ year old high maintenance vehicle like the 100 if you don’t plan on doing a certain amount of the work yourself. They really are constant maintenance. If you get an LX, good luck finding someone that knows anything about AHC. Here in CA labor rates vary from $220-$300 hr so something as simple and common as repacking front wheel bearings at 4-5 hours will run $1000+. In the last few months my 200k 03 I’ve replaced a transfer case switch, wheel speed sensor, rear brakes, valve cover gaskets, and a soft brake line and I barely drive it. It’s not even the money, having to bring it in every time and having an unfamiliar mechanic diagnose the problems correctly is its own frustration.

I'd agree. Mechanically these are solid if you keep up with the maintenance.

But, it's the other stuff on these that seems to come up frequently where if you don't have the time and ability to troubleshoot and fix (or just accept as broken), you may find yourself spending a lot of money at the shop.

Some examples of such throughout my ownership: weak / faulty door lock actuators, blown speakers I had to refoam, my 6 cd changer broke, antenna broke, I've chased down and fixed parasitic battery draws, fixed water leaks (door weatherstripping, 3rd brake light, AC condenser gasket), I have a wonky inaccurate tach gauge, chasing down drive-line clunks, tilt & telescoping steering motors went out, one of my catalytic's honeycomb internals broke so I bought a new OEM cat ($$), and now on my immediate radar is new window track rubber which has separated and I'm hearing howling in my left ear at highway speeds. I'm sure there's more I'm forgetting. Note that I bought a pretty clean one-owner example, around 135k.

Interestingly, NONE of this type of stuff has been a problem in my 2006 Corolla from the exact same era.
 
You don't want to put your phone number in an open forum, check the classifieds for the number of stories about scammers using that info. PM it to them if you want.
Thank you
 
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