Turn signal/Flasher issue

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Dec 16, 2021
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Virginia
Hey there,
New to the forum. I recently picked up a ‘72 40 but the wiring from the PO is a monstrosity. I’m having troubles with my turn signal and flashers. When the turn signal (left and right) is switched on with the lights switch off, I get the audible clicking noise but the turn signal lights do it come on. When I turn the lights switch on, the turn signal switch flashes all lights and the flash is barely noticeable. Instead of flashing on and off, they go from bright to slightly dimmer. Same story with the hazards. I noticed the ground on the front right marker has a shoddy solder job. Curious to know if that can be the source of my problems. The other grounds I’ve seen look fine. Thoughts?

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John McVicker

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I would address you ground which appears to be that non stock yellow wire. Clean & address both ends…but in particular the end in your picture.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Will do. I think I’m going to replace the entire marker and see what happens. Thanks


that is sometimes necessary at the end of a VINTAGE Toyota's Parts Life Cycle due to age and time and well corrosion on a 40+ year old old SKOOL Filament type lamp


some things don't change

other Vintage Toyota Parts get updated and Indeed see a
Brighter LUMEN's LED Future ..... :cool:



Please review my KUSTOM KOITO line up , lots of LED OEM NEW Updated 1972 FJ40 Illumination stuff going on here at the SKUNK WORKS LAB ..
















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ToyotaMatt

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John McVicker

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@cubdriver as a test you might want to do this:

Dont cut any wires yet but clean off that bubble on the back of your bulb housing in the picture. Get a clean piece of say 12g wire, hold it to the newly cleaned bubble, then hold firmly the other end of your 12g test wire to a clean area that will give you a good ground. Get a helper and while you are firmly holding your temp ground wire at both ends have your helper operate the turn signals etc.
 

ToyotaMatt

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@cubdriver as a test you might want to do this:

Dont cut any wires yet but clean off that bubble on the back of your bulb housing in the picture. Get a clean piece of say 12g wire, hold it to the newly cleaned bubble, then hold firmly the other end of your 12g test wire to a clean area that will give you a good ground. Get a helper and while you are firmly holding your temp ground wire at both ends have your helper operate the turn signals etc.


ALSO ,

your side fender apron markers do NOT Blink with the turn signals to be klear there a ALWAYS ON function LAMP format with parking lights and headlights alike




 
Joined
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Yep, I understand they aren’t supposed to flash but they are when the turn signal/hazards are engaged. It’s barely noticeable but it’s there
 

John McVicker

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Bad ground!
 

YODA 88 62

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Resolder the connection on the housing easily with a good solder gun. Heat the solder and remove the wire. Cut and strip the wire. Heat up the solder again and insert the fresh, clean wire. Add more solder if needed.

Consider adding an additional ground riveted to the housings of your turn indicators and tail lights…I have a 75 with different lights, but the added ground cleared up the illumination of the wrong lights when selecting any light. Clean the contacts inside where the bulb contacts with sand paper. Make it shiny.

Also, consider pulling all your switches to clean the contacts in side of them. Be very careful not to break the knobs or strip the screws in the knobs.
Check the harness for any damage.
Check ALL connections for corrosion and clean/replace. Start at one end and work your way to the other. You’ll likely need to sand all the connections.
Clean all the grounds in the harness. Replace battery cables if needed. Use mill spec battery terminals.

It’s a bit of work that will save a lot of headache in the long run.

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I always say to not use the truck chassis to ground the brake lights, but run a wire (18g is the positive in the stock harness?, so I used 18 on the ground) to the firewall, and run the firewall to the M6 on the bellhousing timing mark window - do it for the driver behind you.

My wiring skills seem far improved, over my previous hackjobs, once I started using good shrinkwrap and bare connectors. I really can't get a reliable crimp with the nylon that is on the connectors at the autostore.
 

YODA 88 62

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There were a couple different thoughts on the idea of where to ground from threads read in the last year. Grounding the frame to the starter bolt was a popular application. Some think grounding a circuit to just the body is not enough. The more mass, the better the ground capability.

Sounded like you can’t have enough grounds. I also added a frame to engine block.

Buy the best quality crimping supplies, and tools you can afford. And GXL wire. Buy a kit with multiple colors. Lot of peace of mind.

Use google to search this forum, it’s better than the search bar here, in my brain.

I’m currently doing the Volvo Wiper Swap and had an issue with this not being enough ground to the body. (Full write-up in progress) the ground will be rewired to the ground near the battery.

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Joined
Dec 16, 2021
Messages
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Location
Virginia
There were a couple different thoughts on the idea of where to ground from threads read in the last year. Grounding the frame to the starter bolt was a popular application. Some think grounding a circuit to just the body is not enough. The more mass, the better the ground capability.

Sounded like you can’t have enough grounds. I also added a frame to engine block.

Buy the best quality crimping supplies, and tools you can afford. And GXL wire. Buy a kit with multiple colors. Lot of peace of mind.

Use google to search this forum, it’s better than the search bar here, in my brain.

I’m currently doing the Volvo Wiper Swap and had an issue with this not being enough ground to the body. (Full write-up in progress) the ground will be rewired to the ground near the battery.

View attachment 2867672

View attachment 2867673
Update:
Still troubleshooting the turn signals/flashers with little progress. I replaced the marker light with the weak solder point. The housing was looking kind of sad anyways. Another note, both turn signals are aftermarket and absent of a 3rd ground wire. Not sure if that would cause issues with the circuit so I soldered new grounds. Anyway, all of the lights turn on. Heads, tails, markers etc. With the key in the on position, the turn indicator switch does nothing. Hazards make clicking noise but does nothing for lights


Here’s where things get weird. When I disconnect the right turn indicator light, the turn indicator (right turn position) makes the clicking noise and flashes both tail lights. For a left turn, it does nothing. No clicking, no lights. The hazards makes noise but only illuminates the light on the dash.
My next move will be cleaning or replacing the hazard switch.
 
Joined
Dec 16, 2021
Messages
11
Location
Virginia
There were a couple different thoughts on the idea of where to ground from threads read in the last year. Grounding the frame to the starter bolt was a popular application. Some think grounding a circuit to just the body is not enough. The more mass, the better the ground capability.

Sounded like you can’t have enough grounds. I also added a frame to engine block.

Buy the best quality crimping supplies, and tools you can afford. And GXL wire. Buy a kit with multiple colors. Lot of peace of mind.

Use google to search this forum, it’s better than the search bar here, in my brain.

I’m currently doing the Volvo Wiper Swap and had an issue with this not being enough ground to the body. (Full write-up in progress) the ground will be rewired to the ground near the battery.

View attachment 2867672

View attachment 2867673
Update:
Still troubleshooting the turn signals/flashers with little progress. I replaced the marker light with the weak solder point. The housing was looking kind of sad anyways. Another note, both turn signals are aftermarket and absent of a 3rd ground wire. Not sure if that would cause issues with the circuit so I soldered new grounds. Anyway, all of the lights turn on. Heads, tails, markers etc. With the key in the on position, the turn indicator switch does nothing. Hazards make clicking noise but does nothing for lights


Here’s where things get weird. When I disconnect the right turn indicator light, the turn indicator (right turn position) makes the clicking noise and flashes both tail lights. For a left turn, it does nothing. No clicking, no lights. The hazards makes noise but only illuminates the light on the dash.
My next move will be cleaning or replacing the hazard switch.
 

YODA 88 62

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Pic 1: is a good, shiny ground. Might need a little more sanding.

Pic 3/4: change the connector out and put a new brass terminal connector or use a heat shrink connector. There should be some copper showing in the crimp. Make the ground shiny, add dielectric. Also, wrap the wires in a 1/4” heat resistant loom. Or the loom of your choice.

Take ground surfaces all down to bare metal. Add dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Sand the bullet connectors inside and out. Roll up sand paper and spin it around until shiny inside. If they can’t be cleaned, purchase a bullet connector kit and crimper off Amazon. Well worth it to know they are new.

Add anti-seize on all bolts you remove…every time it’s never been removed and shows corrosion. And hit them with a wire wheel to get the rust off. A corroded bolt may come out the first time, but the bolt may cross thread going in or break off if the corrosion creates a stronger bond later when reinserted dirty.

Some good wiring techniques in here..
Working with Wire - learn.sparkfun.com - https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/all

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Santa Fe, New Mexico
Post #7
I'm fairly certain that some of those lamps above are not supposed to flash. Just the ones on the fender pointing forward, and the ones on the rear bumper?

That blue crimp 'ring' connector looks like you struggled. For that wire, it would have been easier if it was a 16 to 18g (red).

Again, the hazard switch and the turn signal switch are in need of half-century maintenance.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Pic 1: is a good, shiny ground. Might need a little more sanding.

Pic 3/4: change the connector out and put a new brass terminal connector or use a heat shrink connector. There should be some copper showing in the crimp. Make the ground shiny, add dielectric. Also, wrap the wires in a 1/4” heat resistant loom. Or the loom of your choice.

Take ground surfaces all down to bare metal. Add dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Sand the bullet connectors inside and out. Roll up sand paper and spin it around until shiny inside. If they can’t be cleaned, purchase a bullet connector kit and crimper off Amazon. Well worth it to know they are new.

Add anti-seize on all bolts you remove…every time it’s never been removed and shows corrosion. And hit them with a wire wheel to get the rust off. A corroded bolt may come out the first time, but the bolt may cross thread going in or break off if the corrosion creates a stronger bond later when reinserted dirty.

Some good wiring techniques in here..
Working with Wire - learn.sparkfun.com - https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/all

View attachment 2872282
Thanks a lot. Back at it tomorrow. Electrical has never been my strong suit
 

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