Turbo 15B 80/40

[frankenyota]

Once l got the total length of the gearbox l could finalise the gearbox mount position which had to come back 125mm. So l cut the original section from the factory mount and made a new piece out of 6mm to move the position back. I intergrated the plate into the original mount and reused the bracing from the centre. I wanted to keep the original chassis mounting points so happy with the result. Welding might need some work but it’s solid
With some material moved from the bell housing we have about 10mm clearance

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

With such tight clearance, you'll really struggle to change engine mounts.

Welds look factory!

 

[frankenyota]

I can drop the gearbox crossmember which gives heaps of room to change mounts if needed

 

[frankenyota]

Dummy gearbox sitting in position, adapter and bell housing all bolted up and waiting on the right spigot bearing to show up, 3rd times a charm
Looking at clutch hydraulics and assuming that running the same size master and slave as the coaster/Dyna set up’s would be preferred. They have a 5/8” master and 3/4” slave. The HJ47 cab uses a 3/4” master and concerned that if l run this it may make the clutch stiffer. I can mod the firewall to accept a 5/8” bore from an LN106 hilux which would work but is it required?
I have modified the pedal box from an early 3 bolt clutch master to accept the later 2 bolt already then came across this next issue

 

[mudgudgeon]

Dummy gearbox sitting in position, adapter and bell housing all bolted up and waiting on the right spigot bearing to show up, 3rd times a charm
Looking at clutch hydraulics and assuming that running the same size master and slave as the coaster/Dyna set up’s would be preferred. They have a 5/8” master and 3/4” slave. The HJ47 cab uses a 3/4” master and concerned that if l run this it may make the clutch stiffer. I can mod the firewall to accept a 5/8” bore from an LN106 hilux which would work but is it required?
I have modified the pedal box from an early 3 bolt clutch master to accept the later 2 bolt already then came across this next issue
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I would keep the master and slave matched, ie from the same model and year.

I used a 105 series master cylinder, and 80 series slave in my 80 and had issues. (Both new parts)
The slave didn't travel full length. I swapped in a slave to match the year of the 105 master that i used, and it was all good.

 

[frankenyota]

@mudgudgeon did the 105 have a different bore size to the 80 series?
I discussed this with a mate yesterday and he thinks l should just run the 3/4” master, the conclusion was that the 40 series have a long clutch pedal which provides a lot of leverage and any extra effort required for the bigger bore may not be noticeable.
Another 15B guy runs the 3/4” BJ73 master with the same slave and mentions no issues. Either way l agree it would be ideal but might try the 3/4” before final paint and body work so if it doesn’t work l can change it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

@mudgudgeon did the 105 have a different bore size to the 80 series?

I don't know, i guess so.
Something was different and I wasn't getting the full travel from the slave When i used matching master and slave it workwd

 

[frankenyota]

Got my 80 series rear tailgate assembled and installed, so started to repair the original one as these are hard to find in good condition. While the paneling beating tools and welder were out l attacked my triple wiper screen. After a few issues with the 0.6 wire feed l got it sorted. Cut out a bigger section but wanted it all rust free and clean. Used a patch from an old screen l had kept for parts, made it heaps easier than fabricating a section with multiple bends. Here’s my 80 rear upper door.

And my triple wiper 40 screen, l have built another one of these from a spare as well.

 

[frankenyota]

Finished product

 

[Chamba]

Did you find the guts from an LX to build that tripple wiper screen or are you fabricating that as well?

You build another and I'd be keen as hell to buy it from you. I loved the screen on my '84 LX. Would love to put it on my 43.

 

[frankenyota]

@Chamba I have a factory LX screen and converted 2 standard ones from those dimensions as the LX screen had seen better days.
All my windscreens will become triple wipers, here is a link to the builds of those screens.
Might be able to help you out if you can supply a good frame.
Page 7 has some pictures and measurements

Thread 'HJ47'

Apr 7, 2021

My brother has been out west on border patrol during the COVID pandemic, so I told him I would love to have a landcruiser ute to go with my SWB FJ40, so have a look around.
After a few months of looking he came across a property with 4 utes and a troopy.
3 utes are HJ47’s, HJ47 troopy and an Fj45 1977 all in very good condition.
Here’s a picture of the utes once home, the troopy and my new ute at the property.

• frankenyota
• Replies: 176
• Forum: 40- / 55-Series Tech

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[Eurasiaoverland]

Finished product

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Very nice welding

 

[Chamba]

So you built the guts to go with it. Well done mate.
My screen is clean, but shiping it back to Australia and back here would be prohibitive. Let me see if I can talk any of my mates in Adelaide into sending you a screen..... I've had a few, but only the one on my 43 now.

 

[frankenyota]

Bought some brackets to mount the 130L VDJ fuel tank in the rear of the chassis, just working out the positioning.
Been side tracked building new brick piers for the driveway as we are redoing the front entrance to the property including a driveway and fence.
Also been playing with 3B water pumps. Had purchased a cheap Toyota genuine pump to upgrade to a viscous fan style hub, but the pulley for the later viscous was no longer available. So after no luck getting a second hand one l decided to covert the pulleys over on the pumps as all measurements seemed good.
I pressed off the original pulley and old one from the 3B (BJ42) pumps. Had to cut the original down to suit the correct height and pressed it on, l also checked the clearance for the impellor to meet factory specs. I had to press the pulley off a few times to get the correct height but for a $50 investment it worked out well. If l didn't get the pump for cheap l would have just bought the right one but a few hours sorted it out.
Fuel tank mounts

Water pump mods
In the second pic you can see they small section l had to cut off to get the correct overall height.

 

[Chamba]

I see why that water pump took so long: you need a bigger hammer.

Nice work mate.

 

[frankenyota]

Here’s a few of the 3B thermostat and the old pump being removed. Pulled the rusty wire from inside the block when l removed the thermostat housing assembly. Gave her a good flush and cleaned up the alloy housings. Also filled in some corroded sections with epoxy after a sandblast.

 

[frankenyota]

So after playing around with the rusty BJ42 l parked it up outback. Focused on getting the fuel tank mounts set up and welded. Sandblasted the rusted brackets and hit them with weld thru primer, all welded up and fuel tank in, looking into options for 12mm steel fuel line to run along the chassis. We use swagelok at work for high pressure gas which would be awesome but way overkill for this build.
So while the welder was out l burnt in the bracing for the engine mount bracket. Will weld out the body mounts once l get it up on the hoist

 

[frankenyota]

I also managed to get the brake lines and clutch line done a while ago. Trying to make it drivable so m can move this thing in and out of the workshop. Currently looking at building an awning for my shed to keep things out of the weather but getting approval for things around here sux balls. Joys of living in Qld l guess. Anyone recommend 12mm ID fuel line to use for diesel hard lines?

 

[frankenyota]

Started to mock up a factory 40 series radiator bracket to go in the 80 chassis. My mate runs a radiator shop and said he could custom build me one to suit, he already has a core from a V8 build that someone pulled out on. So l repurposed some steel box l had laying around and fabricated some mounts similar to the factory 40's but a lot longer to move the radiator forward. These are beefy at 5mm plate. This will give me a heap of room to run the intercooler and AC condenser in front.
Here's the brackets just sitting in position before being tacked in, it needs to be offset to the passenger side to suit the fan. After checking the 40 series to see if they are central l found that they are also offset to suit the fan l assume. So did some measurements and the 80 chassis is 25mm wider at that point so split the difference and came up with my position