Tuff Free wheeling

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Joined
Oct 5, 2003
Threads
149
Messages
1,144
Location
Golden, CO
Jacked the truck up today and noticed that there was quite a bit of drag when spinning the front wheels. I think it might be the discs--how do you adjust those? If its not that then can you have increased drag in the axel itself? I did grease the steering knuckles but that didn't make a difference. Do I need to grease the wheel bearings--again, how,my chitty hayes manual doesn't really cover it.

Thanks for the input. Like I said, 1000 posts and i still don't know chit for mechanics. But I'll kick you ass in Jeopardy :flipoff2:
 
On my 40 when the wheels started to bind, it turned out to be the brake calipers. They began to seize and weren't releasing properly. I also had some erratic pulling under braking to both sides depending which caliper was hanging. Replaced both and wheels spin nicely and no pulling.
 
chitown40 said:
On my 40 when the wheels started to bind, it turned out to be the brake calipers. They began to seize and weren't releasing properly. I also had some erratic pulling under braking to both sides depending which caliper was hanging. Replaced both and wheels spin nicely and no pulling.

I would echo that remark. Its really the biggest failure point, and probably your problem.
 
So can you pull the wheel and free the calipers or do they need to be replaced?
 
If it's on your 40, whoch I am assuming 'cause you posted it here, it is probably long past due for replacement. The good news is, rebuilt calipers are pretty inexpensive. I got mine for $39 each after the core charge, they are an exact fit, and work great. Got mine at Murray's Auto Parts. I don't know what OEM runs, but I've had mine on for a few months and they were a 100% improvement. I think CCOT sells rebuild kits for about $40-$50 each, so it makes more sense to just get new. While I was replacing them I flushed out all the old fluid in all four lines and it stops like a new truck.
 
I think its time to do brakes, stainless lines while I am at it:D. I need to buy an FSM! Anyone recommend using aftermarket calipers like the wilwoods? Cruiser source for these?
 
Just a thought - since your sig line says '71...I'm assuming it's a disk conversion, make sure the valve is removed from the master that is designed to keep constant tension on drums. My 40 is a '9/75 and the PO replaced the master with the earlier unit (pre-disk) - caused what you are describing....and easy enough to fix!

Tucker
 
Thanks. I think I need to make sure I know what the problem is. I'll have to check the master cylinder(no Idea how to)-again I need a fsm. and make sure that my wheel spacers are OK.

I love this site. Make me feel stupid tho!
 
Pin_Head said:
Hold on there. All disk brakes drag a bit and it is normal. How much is to much? If your hub is too hot to hold you hand on it after you drive for 10 mintes, then they are dragging too much.

Yep, forgot to mention that - good point. All discs do drag as there it constant friction. The thing to see is how much friction.

If you have a burn scar on your forearm from accidently brushing up against the hub when checking the brakes, it might be the calipers. Don't ask me how I know. :D
 
desertdude said:
After 1000 post... a silver star is the best way to show your love :D


I know, I know! When I have $20 its going to renew my TLCA membership then mud is next in line. This site is worth infinately more and I am so grateful for the help and fraternal guidance by those more advance in thier cruiser jedi training. :D

By the way, I pulled the front tires and the brake pads are touching the rotor but just a bit. It doesn't seem like too much drag as I can turn it faily easily. I have not had any problems when braking (pulling to one side or the other). I think for now its good to go but its nice to know what to look out for in the future.

Thanks agai. :cheers:
Dan
 
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