Trouble getting 72 FJ40 seats disassembled (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 24, 2020
Threads
11
Messages
40
Location
Birmingham, AL
We have gotten our new seat covers and cushions in and have been taking off the original seat covers and pads. On the bottom of each of the frames, we are having trouble getting the bottom seat off of the bottom of the frame. It appears that they are supposed to slide, but the rust will not release. I don’t want to damage any of the threads on the bolts and wanted to get input from the forum here.

We have sprayed extensively with Liquid Wrench but still will not budge. Any advice?
C77348E9-AAC7-4CF8-8BA3-53A3D1C5F103.jpeg
51298325-0D52-411B-A1D7-0AEA99810490.jpeg
CB7EF874-B709-4ACA-8954-BE608BD2CC01.jpeg
53180359-9C6D-4F15-A70B-D0423FC07A0F.jpeg
C77348E9-AAC7-4CF8-8BA3-53A3D1C5F103.jpeg
51298325-0D52-411B-A1D7-0AEA99810490.jpeg
CB7EF874-B709-4ACA-8954-BE608BD2CC01.jpeg
53180359-9C6D-4F15-A70B-D0423FC07A0F.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the world of bolted together rusted part dissassembly insanity. Generally you enter this process with the expectation that you will have to break some bolts, retap holes and even replace metal. So with that, you need some more aggressive deruster chemicals, like PB Blaster, Kroil Oil and/or Ed’s Red (google component and mixture ratios). And with those comes time. Also, heat from a torch (propane minimum) can help break the rust bond, but be prepared to control fire if using concurrently with the chemical warfare (cutting off the remaining cover materials will help with that). If you can find a big enough tank, and buy a lot of Evapo-Rust, a good soak will eliminate a lot of the rust at the start for a somewhat cleaner work environment. Good luck with project.
 
Welcome to the world of bolted together rusted part dissassembly insanity. Generally you enter this process with the expectation that you will have to break some bolts, retap holes and even replace metal. So with that, you need some more aggressive deruster chemicals, like PB Blaster, Kroil Oil and/or Ed’s Red (google component and mixture ratios). And with those comes time. Also, heat from a torch (propane minimum) can help break the rust bond, but be prepared to control fire if using concurrently with the chemical warfare (cutting off the remaining cover materials will help with that). If you can find a big enough tank, and buy a lot of Evapo-Rust, a good soak will eliminate a lot of the rust at the start for a somewhat cleaner work environment. Good luck with project.
Thanks! My brother in law just told me about PB Blaster.
 
I just restored my front seats, same vintage. It could be that the frame could be “warped” enough to create some friction at the bolts that hold the sliders to the frame. As if the mount bolts got closer together. Try a short, flat pry bar and gently walk it up, just try not to muck up the threads. I don’t know if any of that makes sense.
 
The PB Blaster worked! I coated the rails good and then was able to tap with a rubber mallet to get it to slide enough to reveal the nut. Thanks for the suggestion! Now lots of cleanup, repaint, and then recover!

View attachment 2362489View attachment 2362490View attachment 2362491View attachment 2362492
So as we are going about cleaning up these sliders, the thought occurred to me that we might get them sliding so well that the seats are sliding back and forth. As you can see on the photos before I got them to release, one of the seats had a spring and release handle that you would use to let the seat up and back. Without that in place, do I run the risk of getting these moving so well that the seats no longer hold in place?
 
I would think yes, the seat would slide forward/back without having the locking mechanism in place. Both hooks hold the seat from sliding.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom