TRD Supercharger Installation Manual Supplement?

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I struggled with belts a bit but landed with 5061038

View attachment 2778626

it’s a really tight fit and I had the revised tensioner which I think had a smaller pulley too. The way I was able to get it on (finally after much cursing) was to wrap it around all pulleys except the supercharger and the idler pulley above the compressor. Then put slack in tensioner and wrap belt around supercharger (hard). Then the belt is kind of resting on the face of the idler pulley above the compressor and I had to use a pry bar to push the belt down under that idler at the same time I put slack in the tensioner (harder). I don’t know if that makes sense but it’s the only way I could get such a tight belt around all the pulleys.

It will probably all make sense once you try it out and it just seems like it doesn’t want to fit. Fresh belts are also kind of stiff too so maybe let it sit in the sun or something.
 
I struggled with belts a bit but landed with 5061038

View attachment 2778626

it’s a really tight fit and I had the revised tensioner which I think had a smaller pulley too. The way I was able to get it on (finally after much cursing) was to wrap it around all pulleys except the supercharger and the idler pulley above the compressor. Then put slack in tensioner and wrap belt around supercharger (hard). Then the belt is kind of resting on the face of the idler pulley above the compressor and I had to use a pry bar to push the belt down under that idler at the same time I put slack in the tensioner (harder). I don’t know if that makes sense but it’s the only way I could get such a tight belt around all the pulleys.

It will probably all make sense once you try it out and it just seems like it doesn’t want to fit. Fresh belts are also kind of stiff too so maybe let it sit in the sun or something.
KiPod - Would you please tell me where do you Connect the Yellow circles too? Because I don’t seem to have those hoses. These are from your instructions. Please see below pictures and just let me know when you get a chance. Appreciate it.

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In the first picture, the upper plug is vacuum and the lower I have my boost gauge connected to it. I think on Tundra installations they use the upper vacuum port maybe for brake booster or something but I can’t remember because it’s not needed for the 100.

For the second picture, I played around with a few different setups and from information I found online, the valve helps control boost during shifts and a good number of people take it out. Mine is unhooked but I haven’t removed it completely yet.
 
In the first picture, the upper plug is vacuum and the lower I have my boost gauge connected to it. I think on Tundra installations they use the upper vacuum port maybe for brake booster or something but I can’t remember because it’s not needed for the 100.

For the second picture, I played around with a few different setups and from information I found online, the valve helps control boost during shifts and a good number of people take it out. Mine is unhooked but I haven’t removed it completely yet.
Appreciate it and this help a lot and I’m almost done. Except the Belt that I had already ordered and should be coming soon and hope it fit. I will keep you posted. Thanks again.
 
My LX is a fat pig with all my weight and 35’s. The supercharger basically brought it back to a stock feel. I’m hoping when I do lockers and gears it will make it feel even better. I can definitely feel the difference but I wouldn’t say it made it “quick” it just feels like the LX dropped a few lbs and more like a stock 100 when accelerating. Maybe not the answer you wanted but my setup is probably different than yours and on a stock 100 I’m sure I feels great.

After gears I might do unichip over the TRD ECU’s but they are pulling mixture into the 12’s under full boost and 13’s under partial boost so for now they get the job done. I always run at least boost and wideband gauges because in my experience those are the two things that will wreck your day real quick if out of whack.
those are AFR numbers not effective compression ratios?
I was wondering if you guys are really in the 14:1 compression range at 6psi
The stock stuff is good for that? Even with 92-3 fuel?
 
those are AFR numbers not effective compression ratios?
I was wondering if you guys are really in the 14:1 compression range at 6psi
The stock stuff is good for that? Even with 92-3 fuel?
Sorry I’m new to this. So I will have the Experts answering your questions.
 
For AFR:

I didn’t have the wideband hooked up without supercharger so I don’t know what it did in stock form. In tuning turbo cars over the years I usually got down to 12’s maybe 11’s but that’s as rich as I would go. I’m still only maxing at 5psi and sometimes it dips down to 10’s in AFR. That’s way too rich for my liking and I feel by leaning it out a bit and adjusting timing it could get more power. I’m sure that’s where the Uni-Chip comes in but I have no experience with that personally. I’m sure TRD ran rich on purpose for safety so I would be shocked if what I’m experiencing is normal. But again, just my guess.

I have no idea about compression ratios though. Never tested it. I think it’s in the 9’s in stock form.
 
Any update on your supercharger installation? Any difference if its a non-VVTi or VVTi motor?
It can be done on the VVTI, but requires some modification and additional tuning.

 
there's some good info in that link. Believe what that guy is saying about the closed loop on vvti regarding our 4.7s
the constraints are intrusive, probably shouldn't say constraints, should say parameters.
There's a whole entire relationship between the SAI + rear o2 affect + knock sensor values.
I'd do it though. budget a 1000 for monitoring and extra sensors/welding/innovate products, which I have liked for almost 20 years.
 
Hi
For AFR:

I didn’t have the wideband hooked up without supercharger so I don’t know what it did in stock form. In tuning turbo cars over the years I usually got down to 12’s maybe 11’s but that’s as rich as I would go. I’m still only maxing at 5psi and sometimes it dips down to 10’s in AFR. That’s way too rich for my liking and I feel by leaning it out a bit and adjusting timing it could get more power. I’m sure that’s where the Uni-Chip comes in but I have no experience with that personally. I’m sure TRD ran rich on purpose for safety so I would be shocked if what I’m experiencing is normal. But again, just my guess.

I have no idea about compression ratios though. Never tested it. I think it’s in the 9’s in stock form.
Hi KiPod - Hope you can help. Just finally complete install my 4.7 TRD Supercharge today and I can’t get the car to start. Any advice I would appreciate very much. It cranks but no start.
 
If it’s cranking with no start I doubt it’s anything you’ve installed. Could be but I don’t see how. It would probably start and run like crap if anything. Maybe crack a fuel like to see if you’re getting any pressure. My EFI relay just died last month and luckily I had a spare with me because I was quite far from home on a camping trip with my two boys. Maybe a coincidence for it to go at the same time but if cranking with no start it’s like when immobilizer kills fuel. Personally, I would start with checking that. 🤞🏻

When in doubt, I always go back to F.A.S.T
Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing
If it’s cranking, you probably have most of those going already. Keep posted obviously.

Oh, and are the TRD ECU’s hooked up properly? Maybe take them out and try to start with just factory ECU?
 
If it’s cranking with no start I doubt it’s anything you’ve installed. Could be but I don’t see how. It would probably start and run like crap if anything. Maybe crack a fuel like to see if you’re getting any pressure. My EFI relay just died last month and luckily I had a spare with me because I was quite far from home on a camping trip with my two boys. Maybe a coincidence for it to go at the same time but if cranking with no start it’s like when immobilizer kills fuel. Personally, I would start with checking that. 🤞🏻

When in doubt, I always go back to F.A.S.T
Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing
If it’s cranking, you probably have most of those going already. Keep posted obviously.

Oh, and are the TRD ECU’s hooked up properly? Maybe take them out and try to start with just factory ECU?
Thanks and let me try Disconnect both TRD ECU’s and plugs back the Factory ECU and see what happen.
 
If it’s cranking with no start I doubt it’s anything you’ve installed. Could be but I don’t see how. It would probably start and run like crap if anything. Maybe crack a fuel like to see if you’re getting any pressure. My EFI relay just died last month and luckily I had a spare with me because I was quite far from home on a camping trip with my two boys. Maybe a coincidence for it to go at the same time but if cranking with no start it’s like when immobilizer kills fuel. Personally, I would start with checking that. 🤞🏻

When in doubt, I always go back to F.A.S.T
Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing
If it’s cranking, you probably have most of those going already. Keep posted obviously.

Oh, and are the TRD ECU’s hooked up properly? Maybe take them out and try to start with just factory ECU?
 
Hi KiPod - another day with my LX470 that will not Start or Spark with Factory ECU connect. And I’m running out of options now and just wondering if there anything else that I might missing.
 
Did you crack a fuel line loose to make sure you’re getting fuel pressure?

Make sure you have every connector hooked up too. I’ve left my MAF unplugged one or twice or too many times to count 😬
 
Hi KiPod - another day with my LX470 that will not Start or Spark with Factory ECU connect. And I’m running out of options now and just wondering if there anything else that I might missing.
Okay finally found the the issues. Just finding out that my ING fuse 10A keep burning out must have short somewhere and also. Also Instruction reference to Something about go to Supplement now under page 11 of 15. Not sure what that mean. Can you help with this. See attached Pictures. Thanks

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