Transmission A343F

[MobyJavaid]

Hi Folks, new to the group and landcruiser. My 99 Landcruiser got A343f transmission with Part number 35000-60850 it’s not moving in D, it only moves in L and then manually needs to shift in 2 And then D, I think Clutch plates are gone, I tried my best to find a second hand unit but there are non available only found 1 which is same transmission but different part number 35000-6A030, I’ve done some research it was fitted to nov 2000 to nov 2001 models, I’m wondering would it fit in my 1999. has Someone else done something similar without any issues. I’m looking for Advice. Thanks

 

[Coin]

You sure your front axles aren’t slipping.
Low locks the differential and will put power to the rear wheels.

 

[2001LC]

Testing, if axle slipping or is pulling out of hub flange. Engauge (push button) CDL, all gears work. Then likely snap rings popped off, axle and or hub flange splines worn out or CV of a front drive shaft (FDS) busted

If a working CDL button, has no positive effect:

Check if auto transmission's (A/T) fluid level correct. I'd first flush with 12 qt's see if helps. Send a sample of old ATF, to blackstone for a report can yeild valuble clues.

Check for DTC (codes). A/T will kick-off DTC. Sometime it a $100 solenoid.

If in the end, you need A/T

99-02 100 series A/T A343f are the same. They made some internal change with parts supplier. So 01-02 are your safest bets. Other A343f from say, 4runner, GX etc. Can be used. But they're not plug and play. You'll be swapping parts. Search ih8mud 100 series tech, for a thread on non 100 series A/T swap into a 100 series.

 

[MobyJavaid]

Testing, if axle slipping or is pulling out of hub flange. Engauge (push button) CDL, all gears work. Then likely snap rings popped off, axle and or hub flange splines worn out or CV of a front drive shaft (FDS) busted

If a working CDL button, has no positive effect:

Check if auto transmission's (A/T) fluid level correct. I'd first flush with 12 qt's see if helps. Send a sample of old ATF, to blackstone for a report can yeild valuble clues.

Check for DTC (codes). A/T will kick-off DTC. Sometime it a $100 solenoid.

If in the end, you need A/T

99-02 100 series A/T A343f are the same. They made some internal change with parts supplier. So 01-02 are your safest bets. Other A343f from say, 4runner, GX etc. Can be used. But they're not plug and play. You'll be swapping parts. Search ih8mud 100 series tech, for a thread on non 100 series A/T swap into a 100 series.

Now that kinda info I was looking for.. thank you.

First thing I checked was fluid it’s got right amount of fluid in. I will drain and send off sample to see what’s going on, that will give some idea.

I’ didn’t understand this bit properly if I press CDL then put through all the gears

 

[MobyJavaid]

Now that kinda info I was looking for.. thank you.

First thing I checked was fluid it’s got right amount of fluid in. I will drain and send off sample to see what’s going on, that will give some idea.

I’ didn’t understand this bit properly if I press CDL, all gear works! Could you please explain this in detail a little bit.

Now that kinda info I was looking for.. thank you.

First thing I checked was fluid it’s got right amount of fluid in. I will drain and send off sample to see what’s going on, that will give some idea.

I’ didn’t understand this bit properly if I press CDL then all gear works! Could you please explain this bit a little. Thanks

 

[TahoeZ]

Rewriting what 2001LC said for clarity: Press the center-differential-lock button. Do all gears work now? If so, check the front axle snap rings (under the dust caps) and check the front axles are not broken; check the front axle to axle hub flange splines.

 

[MobyJavaid]

Rewriting what 2001LC said for clarity: Press the center-differential-lock button. Do all gears work now? If so, check the front axle snap rings (under the dust caps) and check the front axles are not broken; check the front axle to axle hub flange splines.

Thanks pal, I’ve just tried it with differential lock button it only moved forward in L and Reverse, nothing in 2 and D

 

[2001LC]

Thanks pal, I’ve just tried it with differential lock button it only moved forward in L and Reverse, nothing in 2 and D

So sound like you've an A/T issue.
Just to be clear I said "working" CDL. Sometime they don't work. We see dash lights indicating CDL on, usually mean it is working. Sometimes dash light's, not working but CDL is on. We can verify CDL locked & unlocked. By turning steering wheel fully to one side (to the stop), and then backing up. The wheels will bind and skip, when CDL lock.

Note: The OM states check A/T fluid level at operating temp. Engine idling, in P or N , vehicle level. The actual temp is 158F to 176F.
Watch AT #1 temp in tech stream (TS) is best method. One can shoot pan with IR gun from no more than ~3" away, in center of pan. But reading will be off a bit compared TS A/T #1. Depending on OAT and radiant heat, ~3f.

Make sure to scan for current and pending DTC (codes). TS is best for this. Some other device, connect to the OBD port. Scans, miss some DTC.

One other issue I see in the 98-02. Is caused by fluid issue:

• I've corrected many 343 with a good 12qt flush. All to often, the issue is mixing of AT fluids, due to drain and fills.
• Cross contamination form or to transfer case, is another. So make sure your breathers long hose, is clear. From the Y all the way to and including breather.

Prolonged fluid issues are damaging.

But some of the older (2000) 343 A/T had issue, from the factory. They usually surface within 50K miles.

I've issue today on a 750 A/T:

Blackstone report, show excessive iron in fluid. I flush 12qt with Toy WS (04-07) ATF, and added an inline ATF magnet filter to catch remaining iron. Which help a lot. But issue is starting to return, mild but there, in only 440 miles. I've send, a second sample to BlackStone labs. Pulled A/T pan and test solenoid SR, which DTC pointed me to. SR is good. Next I'll test each valve/solenoid and pulling valve body to clean and inspect. If I don't find issue in valve body. I'll go ahead a assemble and see how it operates. Okay Great! But if issue returns. I'll need a replacement 750 A/T & TC (they're usually sold together) or to rebuild A/T.

This is, the very first A/T issue. I could not solve by just a good 12 qt. flush.

 

[MobyJavaid]

So sound like you've an A/T issue.
Just to be clear I said "working" CDL. Sometime they don't work. We see dash lights indicating CDL on, usually mean it is working. Sometimes dash light's, not working but CDL is on. We can verify CDL locked & unlocked. By turning steering wheel fully to one side (to the stop), and then backing up. The wheels will bind and skip, when CDL lock.

Note: The OM states check A/T fluid level at operating temp. Engine idling, in P or N , vehicle level. The actual temp is 158F to 176F.
Watch AT #1 temp in tech stream (TS) is best method. One can shoot pan with IR gun from no more than ~3" away, in center of pan. But reading will be off a bit compared TS A/T #1. Depending on OAT and radiant heat, ~3f.

Make sure to scan for current and pending DTC (codes). TS is best for this. Some other device, connect to the OBD port. Scans, miss some DTC.

One other issue I see in the 98-02. Is caused by fluid issue:

• I've corrected many 343 with a good 12qt flush. All to often, the issue is mixing of AT fluids, due to drain and fills.
• Cross contamination form or to transfer case, is another. So make sure your breathers long hose, is clear. From the Y all the way to and including breather.

Prolonged fluid issues are damaging.

But some of the older (2000) 343 A/T had issue, from the factory. They usually surface within 50K miles.

I've issue today on a 750 A/T:

Blackstone report, show excessive iron in fluid. I flush 12qt with Toy WS (04-07) ATF, and added an inline ATF magnet filter to catch remaining iron. Which help a lot. But issue is starting to return, mild but there, in only 440 miles. I've send, a second sample to BlackStone labs. Pulled A/T pan and test solenoid SR, which DTC pointed me to. SR is good. Next I'll test each valve/solenoid and pulling valve body to clean and inspect. If I don't find issue in valve body. I'll go ahead a assemble and see how it operates. Okay Great! But if issue returns. I'll need a replacement 750 A/T & TC (they're usually sold together) or to rebuild A/T.

This is, the very first A/T issue. I could not solve by just a good 12 qt. flush.

You’ve got tons of knowledge on this thing I’m practically new to Landcruiser! So understanding how this thing works.

I can hear it when I press the button it’s engaging, I’m gonna try tomorrow by doing a steering lock test.

My neighbour told me also to test the transmission by 1 foot on the brake and rev, that didn’t do anything either. It doesn’t feel like it want to shoot off!

Got 1 more question… is it hard to put it in 4L and does it has to be In neutral or park to put it in L range!

Thanks again for your help. I really appreciate that.