2001 LX470, The previous hack shop to do a trans fluid change not only put the wrong fluid in but they also stripped the bolt going back in. Thinking about replacing the pan instead trying to fix the old one. Can’t find any vids. Any recommendations or guides before I do it?
Trans fluid pan replacement
- Thread starter mrhanky5555
- Start date
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I'm in the gasket over FIPG camp, so much cleaner now and for the next time. Pretty straight forward just be aware when you remove the pan be prepared for trans fluid to spill out as a half quart is in the dip in the pan. I started the bolts front to back while going side to side. Even though this guy used a FIPG, his advice was sound.
If the "bolt" stripped going back in. Is drain plug. Toyota made the threads on drain plug with softer metal, than that of thread in pan.
This will correct most:
Get a new OEM drain plug from Toyota. Chase the capture threads in/of pan for drain plug. Make sure to grease the thread of the chase, to grab/hold and metal bits it pulls out. Torque in new OEM drain plug to 29ft-lbf, along with new Toyota washer (plug gasket). Works 9 of of 10 times.
If issue is one of many 10 mm securing bolt(s) stripped. New pan is not needed. Capture threads, are in A/T
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I'm assuming you mean that the FILL PLUG tread is stripped, not one of the multiple bolts that secure the pan to the AT housing.
Be prepared for a big mess, as a lot of ATF remains dripping out after you remove the pan. Best to let it drain overnight into a big tub - you won't get as much onto your hands and face trying to install the new pan.
Use OEM parts. Dry gasket beats FIPG. Make sure all the perimeter bolts and their threaded holes are clean and burr-free. You're threading into soft aluminum, do it slow, use an accurate torque wrench, and follow the criss-cross procedure for progressively torquing down a gasket flange. Go back after a few drives and re-torque, the gasket will soften and settle.
If the shop used the wrong fluid, you'll want to do a full flush. Only about 3-4 qt will drain with the pan. About 8 qts remain in the torque converter.
Be prepared for a big mess, as a lot of ATF remains dripping out after you remove the pan. Best to let it drain overnight into a big tub - you won't get as much onto your hands and face trying to install the new pan.
Use OEM parts. Dry gasket beats FIPG. Make sure all the perimeter bolts and their threaded holes are clean and burr-free. You're threading into soft aluminum, do it slow, use an accurate torque wrench, and follow the criss-cross procedure for progressively torquing down a gasket flange. Go back after a few drives and re-torque, the gasket will soften and settle.
If the shop used the wrong fluid, you'll want to do a full flush. Only about 3-4 qt will drain with the pan. About 8 qts remain in the torque converter.
- Thread starter
- #5
29ft-lbs seems high
29ft-lbe is Toyota spec. for our 4.7L & 5.7L engine oil pan drain plug. If it holds spec, your good.
I recommend anyone wrenching on their 100 series. Have the FSM (Factory Service Manual) and good torque wrench(s) and use them!
99% of torque spec in FSM, are correct. One that comes to mind that has an error. Is in the 2005 FSM, in one spot has 50ft-lbf (IIRC) for vane pumps 3 mounting bolts. Correct is 13ft-lbf.
Most misunderstood spec, is wheel bearing adjusting nut. Where wheel bearing preload is goal, not torque.
I like digital torque wrench (TW) the best. I use 1/4", 3/8" & `1/2" digital and a 3/4" click drive torque wrenches. Most used is my digital 3/8" drive TW.
Rule of thumb:
Start all lugs, nuts and bolts by hand minimum of three turns. If they bind, never force them on with wrench. Remove a clean and chase threads as needed.