Tracking Down a Drivetrain Noise

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Joined
May 10, 2022
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Location
Santa Monica, CA
Hi all,

Read through what posts I could find on this (plus a million YouTube vids) and looking for some help! I have an odd, low humming noise I can hear when driving the 80. It’s harder to hear at lower speeds, say under 35-40 or so, though if I listen and make sure the climate control is off and there’s no music, and on a relatively smooth patch of road, I can make it out.

It sounds like a steady, constant background hum, that gets much more audible above 45 or so, and seems to peak at around 2100 RPM (with overdrive on or off). By then, it’s clearly audible. It doesn’t vary in tone or sound. It’s a constant low hum. No grinding or odd vibrations. When I let my foot off the accelerator, especially at around 2000 RPM, I can hear this “winding down” noise. Imagine a turbine winding down, like that; the humming “winds down.” If I put pressure on the accelerator again, the winding down noise goes away and the hum returns.

I do not hear it if I go at higher speeds but with no load on the engine. Like say if I go downhill and just let the car reach 40-45 on its own, no acceleration, then I don’t hear anything. I had a wheel bearing noise before. I rebuilt the front axle and that solved it. This is a bit of a different sound, less grind more hum, and doesn’t happen without load on the powertrain.

I also replaced the driveshafts with new OEMs, both front and rear. The front driveshaft’s differential-side u-joint had given up the ghost. The rear seemed okay. Regardless, both are brand new now and properly greased, with no overgreasing of the slip yoke (made sure of that). They are properly phased (one in phase, one out of phase). I used to have the classic clunk when shifting into/out of D and R but that’s now mostly gone. It’s a stock height vehicle, pretty sure it’s the same old OEM springs it came with. No water crossings or contact with high water of any kind.

When I was replacing driveshafts, I did test drives with the center diff locked, once with the rear shaft out and once with the front shaft out. The noise remained essentially the same, regardless.

One last, seemingly important, thing that used to not happen but now does: I have essentially little to no slip when driving on 4 high, with or without the center diff locked, but when I go into 4 low, the car slips. I can rev with essentially no increase at all in speed. RPMs go up and up, speed doesn’t change at all. That to me suggests torque converter slip, but seemingly only on 4 low. So could that then be the transfer case? I don’t recall it previously doing this. Of course, 4 low was slower but it didn’t just result in rev-ing with no change at all in speed, only to sometimes catch and move slightly faster.

Any insight is appreciated! The gear oil in the diffs and transfer case has been changed recently. The transmission fluid was changed (not flushed) about 2-ish years ago (about 18,000 miles ago or so), just after I got the car. The level seems fine on the dipstick, no burning smells. Gear shifting is fine, seems normal. Planning on doing another transmission fluid change sometime soon. Would all of this point to something in the torque converter, transmission, or transfer case?
 
As for the slipping, its not the torque converter, because you can move normally in Hi.
That sounds more like the low gear shift is missing and staying in neutral, or the teeth on the low gear set are not meshing, or the linkage is out of adjustment.
When you go to Lo is the "A/T oil temp" light lit in the dash cluster? if the shifter is stuck in N this light will be "on"; or it is on the 95-97.
What year is your cruiser? you didn't tell us.

As for the low hum, I've got nothing. Have you consulted the Diagnostics (DI) section of your FSM? There might be something in there to help track it down.
 
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Are you sure the driveline is slipping and not the tires themselves? You didn't mention what rubber stock you're rolling or terrain you're in when this happens.
I would imagine you'd hear gear teeth grind if something wasn't engaging as it should. Hi/Lo shift is mechanical and very positive.
I too have a similar, slight/distant hum. Not enough to be concerned about, but it's there.
I too have replaced shaft u/js. Also wheel ends and rebuilt the tranny. Hum remains.
My T/C tho has a considerable amount of lash. Again, not concerned but I know it's there.
The hum could be from a pinion bearing as another commenter posted. And there are 4 pinion bearings of note in the drive line, so could be one or more of those. If this is your daily look for wetness @both diffs and either end of the T/C. And again as a daily you should focus on quick resolution of any of that.
There's front spindle/bearing wear and/or loose hub nuts possible. Lifting the front axle/wheels off the ground, grasping each wheel @12/6 and @3/9 and shaking, looking for wobble is the check there. If hub nuts are tight and still have wobble, there's bearing or spindle wear.
There's also the viscous coupling in the T/C. However cases of that unit going out are particularly rare, like "statue syndrome" rare.
So I'd bet a decent amount it's one of the other things listed.
 
As for the slipping, its not the torque converter, because you can move normally in Hi.
That sounds more like the low gear shift is missing and staying in neutral, or the teeth on the low gear set are not meshing, or the linkage is out of adjustment.
When you go to Lo is the "A/T oil temp" light lit in the dash cluster? if the shifter is stuck in N this light will be "on"; or it is on the 95-97.
What year is your cruiser? you didn't tell us.

As for the low hum, I've got nothing. Have you consulted the Diagnostics (DI) section of your FSM? There might be something in there to help track it down.
Low hum seems like carrier bearing.

The slipping in low transfer is the planetary not engaging, check your shift linkage.

Are you sure the driveline is slipping and not the tires themselves? You didn't mention what rubber stock you're rolling or terrain you're in when this happens.
I would imagine you'd hear gear teeth grind if something wasn't engaging as it should. Hi/Lo shift is mechanical and very positive.
I too have a similar, slight/distant hum. Not enough to be concerned about, but it's there.
I too have replaced shaft u/js. Also wheel ends and rebuilt the tranny. Hum remains.
My T/C tho has a considerable amount of lash. Again, not concerned but I know it's there.
The hum could be from a pinion bearing as another commenter posted. And there are 4 pinion bearings of note in the drive line, so could be one or more of those. If this is your daily look for wetness @both diffs and either end of the T/C. And again as a daily you should focus on quick resolution of any of that.
There's front spindle/bearing wear and/or loose hub nuts possible. Lifting the front axle/wheels off the ground, grasping each wheel @12/6 and @3/9 and shaking, looking for wobble is the check there. If hub nuts are tight and still have wobble, there's bearing or spindle wear.
There's also the viscous coupling in the T/C. However cases of that unit going out are particularly rare, like "statue syndrome" rare.
So I'd bet a decent amount it's one of the other things listed.

Thank you for reading my giant text wall!

Sorry, brain farted, should have said it's a 1996. Interesting, yeah, I'm not well versed in the transfer case mechanism, definitely a blind spot in my head when visualizing what could be going wrong. Nope, no A/T lights on the dash! No lights at all and no codes on the OBDII reader. I haven't consulted the DI section, I'll take a look!
It does move in 4 Lo, just only at the idle pace basically, not sure if that might help narrow it a bit further?

I completely derped out regarding the transfer case bearings, forgot they would be spinning anyway even if the driveshaft was out. Ruled them out when I removed the driveshafts and still had the noise, big oversight on my end. So that could make a lot of sense.

Also should have mentioned the tires, earlier, apologies. They are stock size on stock wheels, good tread left, properly rotated. This is all on asphalt, same roads I've driven with the LC for the past two years or so.

Is it right of me to eliminate the front and rear differential pinion bearings, since the noise remained identical even when driving on the same roads with the front shaft out, and then the rear shaft out? My guess was, if the noise was a diff pinion bearing, it would vanish with its corresponding driveshaft out? No wetness on the diffs, no play in any of the bearings on the transfer case or diffs, where they attach to the shafts. No visual or tactile issues I can see/feel.

When I rebuilt the front axle (last September or so), I replaced the spindle on the driver's side, didn't seem too bad, just out of an abundance of precaution. I inspected all the components in there and there were no issues, regardless it's got brand new trunnion and wheel bearings up front.
I'd also guess that, if it were a spindle bearing, the noise would still be there even when not accelerating, but moving at speed? I figure, the noise is not present when not accelerating (or winding down upon deceleration), so it seems reasonable to eliminate spindle and wheel bearing issues, what do you think? No wobble or anything and I was pretty meticulous in the front axle rebuild. As always, may have messed something up, but I triple-checked everything up there when putting it all together. All done with proper torque specs and a preload gauge.
 
Am dealing with a similar issue on my 62, found that my driver's side rear axle bearing was fragged and created gouges on the race on the axle shaft. Same symptom - low hum at about 50 mph+, regardless of power input and terrain. There should be zero play at both 9/3 and 12/6. Any small clunk is suspect. Don't think it matters that the 80 is FF and the 62 is SF but others may have a different perspective.

I've fired the parts cannon on this stupid problem and feel dumb for not having checked it first. I've had enough bad experience with wheel bearings to know better... instead I rebuilt the transfer case (not needed but hey what the heck), replaced the rear driveshaft (u-joints were hosed), replaced tires (needed it), replaced wheels (needed those too)... Good luck!
 
Thanks for the link! Must've felt good to finally get to the bottom of it. I know it's sacrilegious to some, but I'd say square headlight 62s are my fav looking cruiser, especially the high roof variants. I'll take some more time after work to read it through, fascinating to see what the 60s have in 'em.

I plan on rebuilding the rear axle anyway, since it could use some new rotors and calipers, and I have no idea what I'll find in there, so figure it wouldn't hurt. The only thing that makes me think it's not that is, similar to the front axle bearings, I'd assume the noise would be there upon coasting without any load on the drivetrain? But on my end, if I coast downhill even at like 50 or more MPH, the noise just isn't there. The wheels all feel smooth and rotate without any noticeable noise. Only when I'm accelerating do I hear it, or immediately upon decel.
 
Got it - on load would be a powered item, like a pinion gear or the like. I had that issue too, replaced the rear third member and that took care of a chunk of my noise that only happened on acceleration and at slight deceleration. The pinion nut had lost torque and the nut / flange was being held on by the stake, yikes! Opted to just replace with a known good third, because on the 60/62 the pinion preload is determined by torqueing the flange nut which deforms a crush sleeve that you can only get at by rebuilding the entire unit. Dumb design but is what it is.
 
Got it - on load would be a powered item, like a pinion gear or the like. I had that issue too, replaced the rear third member and that took care of a chunk of my noise that only happened on acceleration and at slight deceleration. The pinion nut had lost torque and the nut / flange was being held on by the stake, yikes! Opted to just replace with a known good third, because on the 60/62 the pinion preload is determined by torqueing the flange nut which deforms a crush sleeve that you can only get at by rebuilding the entire unit. Dumb design but is what it is.
80 3rd is built the same way.
 
Low hum seems like carrier bearing.

The slipping in low transfer is the planetary not engaging, check your shift linkage.
Are you referring to the differential carrier or a driveshaft carrier bearing?
 
Sorry for the delay, and thanks for all the responses!

I suspect, if it's a carrier bearing, wouldn't it be one on the transfer case? I might be misunderstanding though; a driveshaft carrier bearing, would that be the same as the pinion bearing, near which the driveshaft connects to the diff? And on the transfer case side, analogously, the bearing near where the driveshaft connects to the t case?

If it was a diff carrier bearing, my guess is it would stop making noise when there's no driveshaft attached to it? But I've taken out the driveshafts, one at a time, and driven up to freeway speeds with only one driveshaft at a time (using the center diff lock), and the noise did not go away or change.

Of course, no expert, could be totally wrong. But my thought is, that should eliminate the diff-side bearings as a source of noise? Plus the fact that there's no noise without power on the drivetrain, to me suggests the diffs would not be a likely source of the problem?

A t-case bearing sounds like a likely possibility though, at least going off my, possibly very wrong, assumptions above!
 
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