Embarking on an epic RV trip next summer.. Is the 40 o.k. to trailer behind a class A or should I pick up an alternative vehicle?
Towing Qustion
- Thread starter powderjay
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Flat towing, or on a trailer/dolly? I know people flat tow them, but there are precautions you need to take. The steering wheel needs to be secured to keep the front wheels from turning. You should also remove the drivelines to keep the transfer case from spinning. I'm sure you'll get more responses both for and against flat towing, but if you don't mind the tire mileage, it's doable.
I always tow my 40 on a trailer, I towed it behind my truck, with a 11'6" Lance camper in the bed, on a 16' car hauler, from Maryland to western Montana.
If it is a big enough RV I see no problem at all.
don't use a u-haul car hauler.
If it is a big enough RV I see no problem at all.
don't use a u-haul car hauler.
The original owner of my FJ-40 towed it behind a motorhome. To the best of my memory it only had the factory hub plates which locked the front axles. My guess is he towed it with the transfer case in neutral. I switched to Warn hubs but have never towed it, except when the engine seized and then it was hubs in 2 wd and trans and transfer in neutral.
Use an A frame. transfer in neutral. Gearbox in neutral. Do not lock the front wheels or it will not go around corners. The front wheels will follow along nicely.
easy.
easy.
I flat tow my 60 behind my motorhome all over the country.
You can see my set up in my build thread.
Do not secure the steering wheel, you want the front wheels to turn when you turn. If you are turning on a soft surface keep an eye on your LC as the tires have a tendency to go the opposite way, otherwise they will go in the same direction as your motorhome.
Also no need to pull the drive shafts, transfer case in neutral, you can put it in any gear you want - I leave mine in neutral.
Also most states require some form of brake assist.
You can see my set up in my build thread.
Do not secure the steering wheel, you want the front wheels to turn when you turn. If you are turning on a soft surface keep an eye on your LC as the tires have a tendency to go the opposite way, otherwise they will go in the same direction as your motorhome.
Also no need to pull the drive shafts, transfer case in neutral, you can put it in any gear you want - I leave mine in neutral.
Also most states require some form of brake assist.
I would look into this very carefully and try out your individual setup before heading off on a long trip. If you don't secure the wheel, @upperblack is right about the tendency for the towed vehicle to turn the opposite direction from the tow vehicle. This is a very real problem, especially on sharp turns, and even on hard surfaces. You can lessen this with caster properly set on your 40, by driving straight a bit before turning, or by just getting lucky. Some people get lucky a lot, until they aren't lucky. Panic maneuver at speed, things behind you get weird, and people get hurt. Securing your wheel makes your expensive tires scrub a little around corners, but you're much less likely to jack-knife things or have the wheels flop the wrong way in a turn.
On a long trip, leaving the rear driveline in will still move things around in the transfer case. Even in neutral, you're still spinning the rear driveline, so the back half of the TC is spinning. Again, search around and do your homework. I've read that TC in neutral is fine, and I've read that when not engaged in a gear, the fluid isn't lubricating things properly as the back half spins. Confirm this for yourself. It doesn't take long to pull the four bolts for the rear driveline and strap it up out of the way.
On a long trip, leaving the rear driveline in will still move things around in the transfer case. Even in neutral, you're still spinning the rear driveline, so the back half of the TC is spinning. Again, search around and do your homework. I've read that TC in neutral is fine, and I've read that when not engaged in a gear, the fluid isn't lubricating things properly as the back half spins. Confirm this for yourself. It doesn't take long to pull the four bolts for the rear driveline and strap it up out of the way.
The procedure for towing an FJ40 behind an RV is exactly like towing a Jeep. I have about 15 years and thousands of mile of flat towing three different Jeeps behind a motor home. First, DO NOT LOCK THE STEERING WHEEL! Put the transfer case in neutral, the tranny in fourth or park if automatic. On an FJ40 you really should have locking hubs so that you can disconnect the front axel. You will have to have a connection to your brake and running lights on the RV. I would suggest buying lights that magnetically attach to the back of the FJ40 rather than tapping into the FJ40 harness. Also be aware that most states require auxiliary breaking on a vehicle as heavy as a FJ40. There will be those that say skip this step. But be aware that if you have an accident without an auxiliary braking system, you could be in deep with the law or your insurance company. I used a Brake Buddy for years on my Jeeps. I also had a RVi brake system. Both take ten minutes to install or remove. You can buy good used ones on eBay or Craig's List. Most other systems aren't really suitable for your old beast and are expensive to purchase and a pain to install.
By the time you purchase a tow bar, lights and braking system you are about half way to purchasing a used flat bed trailer. We bought a flat bed to tow Miss Scarlet to save the wear and tear on her. Be sure to check your RV towing limits. Class B and C RVs have 5K limit hitches. A lot of Class A gassers also have a 5K limit. All or most all Class A diesels have 10K hitches.
By the time you purchase a tow bar, lights and braking system you are about half way to purchasing a used flat bed trailer. We bought a flat bed to tow Miss Scarlet to save the wear and tear on her. Be sure to check your RV towing limits. Class B and C RVs have 5K limit hitches. A lot of Class A gassers also have a 5K limit. All or most all Class A diesels have 10K hitches.
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