Should be able to find a reasonable set of springs in the parting out section. I'd imagine you have the time to wait for the right pair (since the truck is still going and all).
Nice truck BTW.
Nice truck BTW.
Today.
- Thread starter OzarkCreeker
- Start date
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Front shocks:
I've had the Bilstein 5150s with the fixed reservoir and had them leaking in a year. They seem to have oil seal issues and I'm not the only one this has happened to.
I then moved up to Bilstein 7100s because I could get them valved stiffer and are rebuildable and they've been holding up well.
So my advice is to stay away from the 5150 series.
Rear shocks:
I run Bilstein 5125s (not reservoir) and they are doing great. In my setup I need more control so one of these days I'll double up in the back.
- Thread starter
- #23
Here is the bed i have been working on. It is hinged in two places so that when it folds out the support unfolds itself. I've slept on it and with a little blow up mattress action its great. Walmart sells the perfect sized rolling under bed storage tote bins that i used.
- Thread starter
- #24
There is a picture of the bumper that i am working on, trying to measure for the swingarm. The other two show the "flatness" of the leaf springs. There is also a picture of the almost compressed rancho shocks that need replaced. input please, change out springs and shocks?
JB
JB
I like my SOA with flat springs....its the perfect stance and flexability.
BUT IF YOU MUST......go with the OME 2 inch lights.
My 2 cents.....
I know that they have had a ton of warranty issues with them lately too. My buddy sells them at his shop and he is trading out warrantys alot.... good when they work!
- Thread starter
- #27
I've got some new pictures of the progress on the rear bumper project. I have been working quite a bit this week but i finally get a day off tomorrow (Monday). Two fellow co workers and just so happen to be Nuclear Welder/Mechanic gave me some great help and lessons on bumper fab and installation.
I purchased a project from a classified on mud and it is an awesome start. I then ordered a swing out arm and spindle from 4x4 labs along with a latch. After i took nate and irwin what i had they gave me some hell for not completely starting from scratch.... after some bud/miller/busch coaxing they were on board for teaching. day 1 began friday after i got off work and kept me involved all night. after a rough saturday shift i hit it again and we concentrated on "the cleanup"
nate swears he wont let it out of his shop until it looks "purty"
we filled in about 25% of the pitting and cold joints and sanded maybe 2% of that! "tiger pawing" is rediculous.
Here is some porn.
I purchased a project from a classified on mud and it is an awesome start. I then ordered a swing out arm and spindle from 4x4 labs along with a latch. After i took nate and irwin what i had they gave me some hell for not completely starting from scratch.... after some bud/miller/busch coaxing they were on board for teaching. day 1 began friday after i got off work and kept me involved all night. after a rough saturday shift i hit it again and we concentrated on "the cleanup"
nate swears he wont let it out of his shop until it looks "purty"
we filled in about 25% of the pitting and cold joints and sanded maybe 2% of that! "tiger pawing" is rediculous.
Here is some porn.
- Thread starter
- #28
Nate is no joke when it comes to knowing metal. irwin is the gas hatchet subject matter expert. here is the test mock-up prior to swing arm.
Nice looking bumper simple and stout exactly what I am planning on when I build mine. Also do you have an old school Bronco uncut in the background?
- Thread starter
- #30
yes, the bronco is a virgin. the original owner lives down the street. it almost the exact same as purchase date minus hub caps.
The bumper is in the process of having 1 inch shackle mounts added and the swing arm is underway. i called the powder coater and he said 50-75 bucks. SWEET.
The bumper is in the process of having 1 inch shackle mounts added and the swing arm is underway. i called the powder coater and he said 50-75 bucks. SWEET.
- Thread starter
- #31
well, got some more pics. here is fitting the tire for proper angle and height. i didnt want to lose too much of my rear window and i wasnt about to bolt it on... everything is welded. The last one is prep for the powder coater. Tiger pawing is a very very time consuming task.
- Thread starter
- #32
Done! powder coated and fit. The gas shock is money! 
Good thread. I dig that bumper! Having the tire on the driver side is the way to go to maximize the view around your truck.
While you have already fixed your carb problem with a rebuild, thought I might give a little insight to the problem. I had the same thing happen to me, just driving along and at the next stop light the thing wouldn't idle at all. On top of that my fuel mileage got even worse than before. Searched high and low for a vacuum leak and couldn't find anything. I didn't want to mess with the carb too much, but I did adjust the idle screw. It wasn't even in contact with the linkage which was my first clue that something was wrong. After some adjustment it would idle at a nice round 3000 rpm and it was either that or died out. After a little more investigation I realized that the rod that goes into the carb was loose and by moving it around gas would spill out of the seal on the carb (that's where my extra fuel was going!) Plus there was enough slop in it that air was getting into the carb and leaning it out. As I stomped the throttle, it would help seal the leak and run ok, but at anything less than 10% and a small amount of fuel would leak out and air would go in.
Long story short, it sounds like your rebuild was the key as that is what mine needs as well. I just wanted to give others out there a place to look in case they have the same problem.
While you have already fixed your carb problem with a rebuild, thought I might give a little insight to the problem. I had the same thing happen to me, just driving along and at the next stop light the thing wouldn't idle at all. On top of that my fuel mileage got even worse than before. Searched high and low for a vacuum leak and couldn't find anything. I didn't want to mess with the carb too much, but I did adjust the idle screw. It wasn't even in contact with the linkage which was my first clue that something was wrong. After some adjustment it would idle at a nice round 3000 rpm and it was either that or died out. After a little more investigation I realized that the rod that goes into the carb was loose and by moving it around gas would spill out of the seal on the carb (that's where my extra fuel was going!) Plus there was enough slop in it that air was getting into the carb and leaning it out. As I stomped the throttle, it would help seal the leak and run ok, but at anything less than 10% and a small amount of fuel would leak out and air would go in.
Long story short, it sounds like your rebuild was the key as that is what mine needs as well. I just wanted to give others out there a place to look in case they have the same problem.
- Thread starter
- #36
Thanks. I went out for a 4 day adventure and the bumper paid off big time. I'm going to design a new front bumper to house a 9500 lb winch and a couple 7 " hid lights. I am really displeased with the arb style full bull bar design. I really like the half tube half box Baja style. Ill be searching he forum for input on previous experience and fit dimensions.
- Thread starter
- #37
.
After much time away from wrenching on the beast i have finally decided to take the time to fixing the odds and ends that bug the hell outa me.
List:
Driver's seat repair (torn..) anyone have one?
AC fix (terrible idle surges during ac use)
brake fix (booster is done) anyone have one?
carb fan fix (won't energize)
clutch fix (loses pressure after sitting)
Today:
I inspected all of my brakes and cleaned off some old powersteering leak goo. Recently the clutch has felt almost pressureless for a lack of a better word. it engages and shifts fine but i feel like the clutch has begun to engage at the latter part of the throw of the pedal. If i pump it 4-5 times before starting it will engage alot sooner.
Train of thought:
I had an experience with an old ford ranger that had a clutch that you had to pump when it felt loose. The lines ended up just needing bled.
Solution:
After searching for any leaks or loose fittings I did the same thing on the cruiser. I hooked up a hose to the bleeder valve and opened and closed it while my buddy pressed and let off of the clutch. I got a ton of dirty goo gunk that clouded my little bottle full of brake fluid i used to prevent any more air entrainment. I'm going to keep the bottle to see if the gunk settles out with any particulate.
We kept the reservoir full and refilled it with the recommended dot 3 until it became clear. The float is actually floating now and the clutch engages like it should, within 3-4 inches of pedel travel.
Has anyone ever had this happen? i have searched high and low and havent found any advice or write ups on this.
ANY INPUT IS APPRECIATED!
here is a little ozark style cruiser porn
After much time away from wrenching on the beast i have finally decided to take the time to fixing the odds and ends that bug the hell outa me.
List:
Driver's seat repair (torn..) anyone have one?
AC fix (terrible idle surges during ac use)
brake fix (booster is done) anyone have one?
carb fan fix (won't energize)
clutch fix (loses pressure after sitting)
Today:
I inspected all of my brakes and cleaned off some old powersteering leak goo. Recently the clutch has felt almost pressureless for a lack of a better word. it engages and shifts fine but i feel like the clutch has begun to engage at the latter part of the throw of the pedal. If i pump it 4-5 times before starting it will engage alot sooner.
Train of thought:
I had an experience with an old ford ranger that had a clutch that you had to pump when it felt loose. The lines ended up just needing bled.
Solution:
After searching for any leaks or loose fittings I did the same thing on the cruiser. I hooked up a hose to the bleeder valve and opened and closed it while my buddy pressed and let off of the clutch. I got a ton of dirty goo gunk that clouded my little bottle full of brake fluid i used to prevent any more air entrainment. I'm going to keep the bottle to see if the gunk settles out with any particulate.
We kept the reservoir full and refilled it with the recommended dot 3 until it became clear. The float is actually floating now and the clutch engages like it should, within 3-4 inches of pedel travel.
Has anyone ever had this happen? i have searched high and low and havent found any advice or write ups on this.
ANY INPUT IS APPRECIATED!
here is a little ozark style cruiser porn
Sorry, my 62 doesn't have a clutch so I can't help but I would like to know if the above pic is a recent one? It looks so dry! Where in the Ozarks was it taken? Your mountains look just like the Rocky Mtns. will in 28 million years.
- Thread starter
- #39
That was on pilot rock which is north of I40 between jasper and russellville. The reason it looks so dry in the middle of may is because the ice storm we had 2 years ago destroyed our forest. Everything that was up in the ozarks (everything pictured) was completely frozen over, when the ice became too heavy all of the trees gave way. all kinds of wildlife lost their homes and hunting has been different. it usually looks like a lush pine forest. it will take years to rebuild. Anyone got any info on this clutch thing though?
JB
JB
is the pic of your cruiser at the creek , above Russellville, on a creek feedin the piney by a camp spot maybe on fs1800A ?? good lookin pic, i have one of my 40 at the same place, small world ! .... damn.. weldin with sandles and shorts i seem to do it all the time and have the scars to prove it... ...i've seen your 60 in town, nice rig !!
see ya Dave
see ya Dave
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